How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

To many farmers and hatchers, the incubator is deemed to a facilitator of hatching success and quality. But what has escaped the attention of many is that the incubator is a not a miracle working tool but rather a complement to the hatchers’ efforts.

This means that the farmer still has a responsibility to play before they can engage the services of the incubator. In brief, the success and quality of the hatching process is dependent on both the farmer and the incubator.

These facts place a responsibility on the shoulders of the farmer so that the farmer-incubator partnership is a bigger success. This means that there is need to pay attention to the quality and condition of the eggs before they are incubated.

This article seeks to outline and explore some of the preparatory stages and procedures that need to be taken before the eggs are incubated. Failure to handle this human side of responsibility effectively will definitely result in the failure of the whole hatching process.

This preparation stage is a reflection of the GIGA (garbage in, garbage out) principle because the quality and success of hatching is directly proportional to the quality of the eggs of the eggs that are placed in the incubator. Keep on reading the tips below:

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

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Tip 1: Pick clean and healthy eggs

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

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Before you pick eggs for hatching, make sure that you wash your hands. Additionally, handle them very gently because if you don’t, the embryo is vulnerable to damage. As you do the selection, ensure that you pick eggs that are of good size but not too big because the later size may also reduce the success of hatching.

In addition, pick eggs that are clean but if some of them are a bit stained, do not wash them. The reason behind this is that if you wash hatching eggs, you are most likely to damage the natural coating on the egg which facilitates the success of the embryo.

Tip 2: Pay attention to the age of the eggs

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

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The age of the eggs is another very important area that you should have to take care of before placing them into the incubator. Make sure that the eggs you want to incubate are between 1 to 7 days old. After a week, the possibility of the eggs hatching decreases drastically.

In fact, after 3 weeks the possibility of the eggs hatching reduces to nil.

Tip 3: Pay attention to storage humidity

Another important area to take care of is the storage humidity of the eggs before they are placed into the incubator for hatching. Make sure that you store hatching eggs in conditions that are at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

The relative humidity percentage in the storage should be at least 75%. In addition, ensure that the eggs are stored with their smaller end pointing downwards.

Tip 4: Allow for gradual egg warming before incubating them

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

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Before you place cool eggs into the incubator, give them time to warm. Allow them to warm naturally to room temperature before incubation because if you suddenly warm them from 55 degrees F to 100 degrees F, the moisture in the shell of the egg will condense and lead to lower chances of hatching.


To this point, you are abreast with how you need to play your role in the success of your incubation process. You now know what the incubator should do and what you should also do.

The incubator cannot prepare the eggs because its job is to incubate them. Apply these tips in order to achieve the hatching success that you desire.

© 2015-2021 Incubator Expert • All Rights Reserved.

If stored correctly, chicken eggs can be stored for up to 14 days before incubation. This is important as it means that you don’t have to rush your eggs into the incubator, giving you time to build-up a clutch of eggs for maximum incubation success. Storing eggs first also allows you to fully prepare your incubator; so you can clean it thoroughly and check the temperature or humidity levels are just right.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

“Don’t rush the eggs into the incubator – You can wait up to 14 days”

What happens in the wild?

In their natural habitat, ‘broody’ hens and other birds will produce one or two eggs a day, laying them in their chosen nesting place. The fertile eggs are stored in a clutch which the hen will return to often so she can gently arrange the eggs and nest. She ensures that the conditions are perfect before incubation begins.

After a few days she will have developed a large enough clutch to incubate. She will then sit on the eggs, staying in place for 21 days. During this time she will take only small and occasional toilet or food breaks.

Re-creating nature.

The best route to incubation success is to imitate nature as closely as possible. You can begin to imitate the wild conditions even before incubation has begun. To do this, follow these simple rules:

  1. Build up a clutch of eggs over 7-10 days.
  2. Turn the eggs regularly during storage to keep them fresh.
  3. Store eggs at just below room temperature (15-18C)
  4. DO NOT refrigerate or pre-incubate the eggs.
  5. Preheat the incubator first, then introduce your clutch of eggs.

Following the above method will ensure the best possible chances of success for your eggs.

Recommended products.

Turning the eggs several times a day during storage can be quite a difficult task. Particularly if you’re short on time. We recommend an automatic egg turner to keep the eggs and contents fresh. View the automatic egg turner here.

Before incubation, it’s important to keep the eggs clean and sanitised. Therefore incubation disinfectant is recommended for gently washing the eggs before they enter the incubator.

Tips for Prepping Eggs for Sale

Lauren Arcuri Ware runs a small farm and family homestead on 25 acres in Vermont. Her experience includes raising chickens for eggs and meat, growing vegetables, harvesting apples, keeping bees, and canning, freezing, drying, pickling, and preserving food. She’s covered those topics for The Spruce for seven years.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

The Spruce / Kara Riley

If you are new to keeping chickens for the eggs they produce, it’s important to clean those eggs before eating them. Egg cleaning methods are helpful to know for your personal needs or if you want to sell eggs at the farmers market or direct to consumers. Learn a couple of ways you can make sure freshly laid eggs are clean, safe, and attractive to buyers.

Dry Clean the Eggs

The best method for washing your eggs is to dry clean your eggs. To do this, use something dry and slightly abrasive to rub off any dirt or feces until the egg is clean. With this method, you do not use water or any sanitizer. Use a sanding sponge, loofah, fine sandpaper, or abrasive sponge of some kind to dry-clean the eggs. Periodically sanitize the sponge or loofah or discard the old one in favor of a new one.

This method preserves the natural antibacterial coating called the “bloom.” Washing the eggs with water removes the bloom and encourages bacteria.

The main bacteria you want to avoid with eggs is salmonella, which is food-borne and can lead to food poisoning. You only run the risk of getting a salmonella infection if bacteria is present on the eggshell, and you intend on eating the egg in a raw preparation. Some popular dressings have raw egg, such as fresh mayonnaise, hollandaise, and Caesar dressing. However, cooking kills bacteria.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Wet Washing

Sometimes eggs are just too grimy or unpleasant to dry clean. It is not uncommon to get unsightly smears or splashes of feces or dried egg yolk (from broken coop eggs).

If you cannot seem to get them clean with the dry-clean method, then you need to wet-wash the egg. Use water that is warmer than the egg’s temperature. Keep it at medium warmth, not hot but not tepid. Avoid cold water entirely. Cold water can cause the pores in an eggshell to suck bacteria from the surface and into the egg where you don’t want it. Never immerse or soak the eggs in water.

Wash the eggs under running water from the faucet or spray the eggs in washer flats or wire baskets with warm water. Let them sit and wipe dry with a dry paper towel one at a time. Place the clean eggs in another basket or flat.

To sanitize the eggs, spray the cleaned eggs with a diluted bleach-water solution. Allow the eggs to dry on a rack, in a basket, or a washer flat. If the water and sanitizing spray are not enough for particularly stubborn stains, you can remove those stains by dipping the eggs in warm vinegar.

Storing Your Eggs

If you are planning to use the eggs yourself, you can store unwashed eggs on the countertop for several weeks. Wash them just before cooking.

Store eggs pointed-side down to keep them fresh longer. Some people say unrefrigerated eggs taste better, but once you have washed them, refrigerate your eggs immediately if you are not cooking them right away.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Preparing Eggs for Sale

If you are preparing fresh eggs for sale, check with your county cooperative extension office to find out the cleaning and safety procedures mandated by the state before you can sell the eggs.

After washing with whichever method you choose, store your eggs in clean cartons or racks. A cloth moistened with cooking oil can give the eggs an appealing shine while also prolonging the shelf-life of unrefrigerated eggs by sealing the egg’s pores.

Keep Coop and Chickens Cleans

Perhaps the easiest way to ensure that your eggs are clean is to keep the nesting boxes clean. Also, check the nest boxes early and often. Remove the eggs as soon as you spot them.

Make sure there is a clean layer of straw or bedding for the dropping egg. If the layer is too thin, the egg may fall onto a hard surface, crack, and the yolk gets everywhere. Keep in mind that the hens may also toss out the straw from the nest box, so replace it regularly and remove droppings as you go. Also, discourage your chickens from sleeping in the nest boxes. That’s the primary reason for the poop problem.

If you do notice one of your chickens has a soiled vent area (where the eggs come out) or those feathers appear dirty, it’s time to bathe your chicken. Much like you wash a cat or dog, put the bird in a tub or basin, use warm water, a mild pet shampoo, and clean the soiled area. Towel dry the bird. For your safety during the washing process, use rubber gloves and sanitize the washbasin with a mild bleach solution.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Learning how to hatch chicken eggs is a fascinating activity for you and your family. If you don’t have a broody hen willing to set on a clutch of fertile eggs, you will need to turn to hatching the fertilized eggs in an incubator. The entire process takes only 21 days for chickens.

After a few weeks of raising the chicks in a brooder, they will soon be ready to integrate into the coop with your other chickens. If this is your start to a brand new flock, you will have the opportunity to care for your chicks from the moment you hatch chicken eggs.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

What is a Hatching Egg?

A hatching egg is the name for eggs that are freshly fertilized and ready to be incubated. Fertilized eggs require a rooster in your flock. If you have a broody hen, hatching eggs can be placed under her in the nest. This is usually done while she is sleeping. When no broody hen is available, buying hatching eggs to incubate (or using your own fertilized chicken eggs from your flock) is the other option.

The first step to hatch chicken eggs is to decide which breed or breeds you want to raise. With so many breeds of chickens available, this can take some research and thought. One thing to keep in mind is that the more rare the breeds of chickens are, the higher priced the hatching eggs will be.

When a rooster is present in the flock, hatching eggs can be obtained for the incubator from your own flock or from a neighbor or friends coop. Some people will sell mixed farm bred hatching eggs for a small fee. These are often not purebred chickens but can still be an excellent source of fresh eggs in the future. Mixed breeds can also give you some wonderful egg layers, such as Olive Eggers and Easter Eggers.

How to Hatch Chicken Eggs in an Incubator

Set Up the Incubator

When setting up the incubator, plan ahead. Get everything ready before setting the eggs into the machine. We highly recommend Brinsea Incubator products. Clean the incubator with a gentle, non-toxic soap or cleaner and allow to air dry. It’s good to turn it on and let it regulate for 24 hours before placing the eggs. Get the freshest fertilized hatching eggs that you can. After 7 days, the viability of the egg starts to decline. If you receive the eggs in the mail, ask if the eggs are collected and mailed within a day or so. The eggs should be clean of mud or manure, and never washed.

Set the Chicken Eggs

Place the eggs in the incubator with the pointy end facing in or downward. Mark one side of the eggs with an X using a pencil. (I numbered the eggs on one side because I had different breeds.) This enables you to turn the eggs and determine if you have turned each one. For example, start with the eggs showing the X. Twice a day, turn the eggs (if your incubator doesn’t automatically turn for you). The first turn will place the X on the under side where you can’t see it. On the final turn, the X will again be on top. Turning the eggs helps the developing embryo grow correctly. With a broody hen in the nest, the hen will turn the eggs and rearrange them in the nest, naturally taking care of this need.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Some incubators now have humidity and temperature control features along with automatic egg turners. The recommended temperature for incubating chicken eggs is 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit with the relative humidity of 40 to 50%, and then bumping the humidity up to 60% during the final days of incubation.

After a week to ten days, using a candling light or small flashlight, check the eggs for development. At this point it should be clear that a chick (maybe you only see a dark mass) is growing in the egg. An egg that is not developing appears empty although you may be able to determine the presence of the yolk.

The Growth Period to Hatch Chicken Eggs

Continue to turn the eggs twice a day until day 18. At this point, the baby chicks are almost completely developed and need to get into the correct position for hatching. The incubator goes into what is called “lock down”. Humidity is added by adding a wet sponge or shallow cup of water with a chick guard cover over it. The humidity is important because it prevents the membranes from sticking to the chick as it struggles to hatch. With too low of humidity, the membranes can almost shrink wrap a chick and cause it to not hatch successfully. But too high of a humidity can cause the chick to drown inside of the egg. Make sure you keep it around 60% humidity by using a hygrometer.

Waiting to Hatch Chicks

From day 18 to 21, watch for signs of pipping. This is the first break in the egg made by the small egg tooth on the chicks beak. The chick may take a long break after pipping. Don’t be too concerned if hours go by with no progress. Most chicks will completely hatch within 24 hours of pipping, but some do take a little longer.

Some Chicks May Not be Strong Enough to Hatch

Chicks that seem to be struggling to hatch make it difficult to watch without helping. The risk we run if we attempt to help hatching chicks is that we can make matters worse. It is a tough call to make. Some chicks are not strong enough to survive even if we help hatch chicks. Others may have begun to be shrink wrapped and trapped in drying membranes in a prolonged hatch. These may very well survive if the shell can be removed without tearing the chicks skin. Using a moist sponge to lubricate the membranes may be successful. The expert advice is often to not help hatch chicks that are struggling, or to wait until they haven’t hatched for 48 hours.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

New Life Begins

Once the chicks have had time to dry off for a few hours, remove them from the incubator into the brooder that is ready and warmed from the heat lamp or brooder warming plate. Keep the newly hatched chicks in the brooder at 95 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week. Gradually begin to lower the temperature in the brooder as the chicks develop. It is very important to keep chicks in a warm environment until they can regulate their own body temperature. Often this can take 8 to 10 weeks. Chilled chicks get sick and die quickly, so it is best to give them time to grow and acclimate to the weather slowly.

Enjoy the next few weeks. As the chicks grow, they will be adorable sources of fun, joy and entertainment!

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

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How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

She shares homestead information from her property, Timber Creek Farm where they raise sheep for fiber, chickens, goats, and more! Follow their journey online!

The chickens are finally laying well now that the days are lengthening again and the geese are starting to court each other. Spring is on the way! And that means one thing. Babies.

The best part of farm life is the babies. Baby chickens and baby geese and adorable little baby ducks and baby goats and baby pigs and even baby wild animals like quail and Killdeer. I can’t wait to see baby killdeer even if they ARE shorebirds that aren’t supposed to be in the desert. How much cuter can a baby get?

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

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Anyhow, we have the incubator turned on and heated up in preparation for putting eggs in tomorrow. It’s important to prep the incubator and make sure everything’s working and that it’s holding the temperature (and that the incubator thermometer is working). We also cleaned it really well by using vinegar and sunshine. I used pure vinegar, which did a doozy on my hands let me tell you. Ouch! Use gloves if you do that, otherwise water it down. The incubator was really dirty though so I wanted to use overkill. I say “we” cleaned the incubator because my arms are too short to reach the back wall so I had to get Thomas to do it lol. Then I let it sit in the sun for a couple days until rain threatened and we brought it back inside.

The sunshine is really the best sterilization you could ever use in my opinion. The ultraviolet rays are excellent at destroying bacteria and viruses which is why we have so few disease problems in the desert. But hydrogen peroxide is also very effective, maybe even moreso.

“four trials were conducted to evaluate the efficacy of hatcher air sanitation utilizing ultraviolet light (UV), ozone, or hydrogen peroxide on bacterial populations, the spread of Salmonella, and hatchability of broiler eggs. The UV light (254 nm, 146 mu W/s) and ozone (0.2 or 0.4 ppm) treatments were continuously applied through the last 3 d of hatch, the hydrogen peroxide treatment (2.5%) was administered 1 or 2 min of each 10 min at rates of 500 or 100 mL/h. Hatchability was not significantly reduced by sanitizing treatments when compared with the untreated control (94 vs 95.6%). As compared to controls, all sanitizing treatments reduced 75 to 99% of the total bacteria, Enterobacteriaceae, and Salmonella in the hatching cabinet air samples. The use of hydrogen peroxide resulted in greater reduction of bacteria than ozone or UV light. Only hydrogen peroxide significantly reduced Salmonella levels on eggshell fragments. Significant reductions in the number of Salmonella-positive chicks occurred using the ozone and hydrogen peroxide treatments. Hydrogen peroxide significantly reduced the magnitude of Salmonella colonization in chicken ceca. These trials demonstrated that the spread of bacteria can be effectively reduced in the hatching cabinet by air sanitization using UV light, ozone, and hydrogen peroxide. The potential to reduce bacterial cross contamination in the hatcher is achievable without depressing hatchability.”

It’s also important to put clean eggs into the incubator. The best way to keep eggs clean is by keeping clean straw in the nest boxes so the eggs don’t become filthy. Never wash them as this forces bacteria into the egg. Commercial hatching facilities often use formaldehyde to fumigate their eggs. This does work, but yuck. First off, that’s what you use to preserve dead bodies and second, it’s carcinogenic! You don’t want to use that. I recently found a research article that says 5% hydrogen peroxide spray (or dipping eggs in a 6% solution) works just as well as formaldehyde and increases the hatch rate by 2%. We’re going to give it a try this year and see!

Hey! This post might have some affiliate links. That means if you click a link and buy something, we make money-and it doesn’t even cost you anything! Pretty cool right?

Chose clean, fertilized eggs that are less than 10 days old to incubate. Do not wash the eggs. Washing eggs removes the ‘bloom’ which is a natural, protective coating. Do not incubate cracked, damaged or misshapen eggs. Here’s more information on how to handle hatching eggs before incubation.

Place your incubator in a draft free room out of direct sunlight. Turn your incubator on (and the egg turner if it has separate controls) 24-48 hours before setting eggs.

Check the temperature several times and make sure it stays steady for at least 12 hours before setting eggs. The incubator should be kept at 99-99.5 F for forced air and 101-102 F for a still air incubator.

The temperature inside your incubator will drop when you first put the new eggs in it. This is normal. Don’t touch the controls, it will come back to the correct temperature as soon as the eggs warm up.

Keep the humidity in the incubator between 40-50% for the first 18 days. If your incubator does not have an egg turner, turn the eggs 3-5 times a day.

I like to candle my eggs after 1 week of incubation, though you can often see development after just 3 days. Using a strong flashlight or a candling light, look inside the egg. It helps if you’re in a dark room. You should see a darkened blob with what looks like a red spider. It might also have a black spot in it.

Dispose of any eggs that are not developing by day 10. Return the developing eggs to the incubator. Try to move quickly so the eggs do not get too cold.

Removing eggs that have stopped developing is important during incubation and right before lockdown. When an egg stops developing it starts to decompose. This can cause pressure to build up and the eggshell can pop open.

If an egg breaks open inside your incubator it could ruin the rest of the hatch. You want to remove these before they have a chance to pop as they smell really bad and are hard to clean up.

After day 18 stop turning the eggs. If you have a removable turner, take it out. Once you remove the turner make sure the temperature in the incubator doesn’t drop, since egg turners sometimes have a motor that creates heat and adds to the incubators temperature.

You will have to carefully adjust the incubator temperature if it gets too low. If your eggs are in suspended turning trays (like in a cabinet incubator) move them to the hatching area. Candle the eggs one last time and remove ones that have quit developing.

Raise the humidity in the incubator to 65% by adding water to the water reservoir. If you can’t get the humidity high enough with the water reservoir alone, you can also add a piece of wet sponge. You’ll probably have to add water during the days of lock down so try to position the sponge to make it easy.

I like to put a piece of non-slip material in the bottom of the hatcher (under the eggs) so the chicks can get a good grip with their little feet. It helps to prevent spraddle leg. Rubber shelf liner works great for this, or a thick washcloth.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

What is lockdown?

From day 19 till about day 24 is considered “lock down”. This is the crucial time while the chicks are hatching. If you open the incubator during this time it can let the humidity out drying the membrane of the hatching chicks. Once the membrane dries, the chicks are unable to move and can get stuck in their shells. This is called shrink wrapped.

The chicken egg hatching process starts around day 18 as the chick gets ready to hatch. Somewhere around day 21, the chick will peck a hole in the egg with the little egg tooth on his beak. This is called pipping.

Sometimes you will hear chirping even before they pip through the shell! After they pip through the shell, they will slowly peck their way around the shell breaking through it all the way around. This is called zipping. They will then push the top off the egg and pop out.

There really is no ‘typical’ hatch. Sometimes a chick will pip and zip in an hour. Others will pip then rest a few hours before they start zipping. Others will partially zip then rest. A chick can take up to 24 hours to hatch.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Leave newly hatched chicks in the incubator until they’re completely dry and fluffy. They can be moved to the brooder after 24 hours.

You’ll need to clean your incubator after each hatch. I have instructions for cleaning Styrofoam and plastic incubators. An incubator free of bacteria and debris gets a much better hatch rate.

These instructions are for hatching chicken eggs, but it will be about the same when hatching other poultry eggs. except the length of incubation time might be different. If you want to hatch ducks, quail, guineas or other fowl check this chart from Incubator Warehouse for exact hatching details.

Happy hatching and if it’s your first time check out How to raise chicks for beginners.

Here’s a complete list of incubation and hatching terms and definitions in case I mentioned anything you’re unfamiliar with.

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Sometimes it is necessary to store eggs before incubation. If you are collecting your own eggs, for example, or if you bought eggs before having a way to incubate them.
It happens more than you would think, and it’s always better to be prepared just in case. Below is more information on how to properly store and handle eggs in order to get the best results.

Please contact us using the information below if you have any questions.

Improving Egg Quality

The most important thing to remember is that egg quality cannot be improved once they are laid.
After an egg is laid that is the highest quality it will ever be, and it’s only downhill from there. Improper storage and handling makes matters worse, but following certain guidelines can help your eggs last until you’re ready to incubate.
Note: Eggs should always be stored pointy-end down.


If eggs are stored at a high temperature they will start to develop, which can cause problems when you set them in an incubator. The ideal temperature range prior to incubation is 53 – 59°F. Our blog on what happens when the power goes out gives more detail on what happens if the eggs are stored at a higher temperature. Temperatures that are too low could cause freezing and a breakdown of the embryo structure.

When you do incubate the eggs, it is important to bring them up to temperature slowly. Moving an egg from 53 – 59°F to 99.5°F too quickly can cause thermal shock. Slowly bring the eggs to room temperature and then into the incubator to avoid complications.


Proper humidity during storage is important, because low humidity can cause the egg to dry out before incubation. The ideal range is between 75 and 85%, which is easier to achieve at low temperatures.

Time in Storage

The rule of thumb for time in storage is seven days. Eggs have been successfully kept for longer periods, but seven days is the longest you should plan to store your eggs. Hatchability chances decrease after the seven-day mark, due to vitamins decaying and the membrane breaking down.


Cracked, misshapen, and heavily soiled eggs should be discarded (if possible). You can read our article on cleaning eggs before incubation if you would like to try cleaning dirty eggs. Always wash eggs in a solution that is warmer than they are so that the water does not flow inwards and contaminate the egg. Wet cleaning will remove the outer cuticle from the egg, so cleaned eggs should be incubated as soon as possible.

Turning During Storage

Even during storage eggs should be turned. They don’t need to be turned as often as they do during incubation, however. Once a day should do the trick, back and forth for 45° each time. Not turning the eggs during storage can cause the yolk to float and touch membranes, which can cause it to stick and prevent the embryo from growing during incubation.

Handling Eggs

Care should be taken while handling the eggs to keep from rupturing the yolk. If any internal damage occurs the egg will not hatch.

Collecting Eggs

If you are collecting your own eggs there are a few reasons why it’s important to collect eggs first thing in the morning. You can also check again around noon to see if there are any more eggs to collect. This can help keep eggs clean and it can also prevent hens and predators from eating the eggs.

Egg Shape, Texture, and Quality

Eggs that are naturally misshapen may not hatch. Small eggs usually have a large yolk in proportion to the albumen, and large eggs can have two yolks, or twins, and cannot be successfully incubated. Other types of misshapen eggs can have faults in the shell.

Uneek Poultry are your Australian Egg Incubator Specialists.
If you have any questions at all regarding this information please comment below or contact us directly.

Suppose you don’t have a rooster, no worries. No incubator? No problem. Believe it or not, you don’t need either. That’s right! In this article, we’ll show you how to hatch chicken eggs without an incubator. A broody hen will take care of it for you.

However, there is a process involved to get things set up, which includes a separate nesting box, fertilized eggs, brooder, food and water. We’ll get to the nitty gritty below!

You are probably scratching your head, wondering just how the heck are we going to hatch those eggs.

Well, we are going to rely on good ole mother nature by hatching your eggs with the help of one of your hens. The old-timers have used this method to hatch fertile eggs for a gazillion years. You have the perfect incubator right in your coop.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Pros And Cons Of Brooding vs. Incubator

As with any endeavor you take on, there will always be pros and cons.


Using An Incubator

  • You can select to hatch a certain number of chicks.
  • This method satisfies the maternal instinct in your broody hens.
  • Hens do everything an incubator would do.
  • Chicks come into the world in a more natural way and are received and mothered the way nature intended.
  • It’s a hand-free method of hatching that doesn’t require feeding, watering, and cleaning for a broody hen.
  • You don’t have to be concerned about Cocci as much.
  • You can hatch more eggs when you want to.


Hold on before running out and putting eggs up underneath your chicken in the nesting box. Hatching fertile eggs isn’t as simple as that. We have to strategically encourage nature to take the lead in hatching after we have done a little planning.

So, just to refresh you, to have fertile eggs that chicks are hatched from, you must have a rooster and a hen who mate. That hen’s eggs she lays will be fertile. Hens are going to lay eggs even if you don’t have a rooster (these eggs are sterile.)

Now we are going to assume you have no rooster and no fertile eggs.

  1. Set up a brooder box away from the flock. This will be where the broody hen you select will sit on the eggs and mother the chicks until they are old enough to advance to a larger area. The area should be warm and quiet.

Here are a few ideas on what you can use for a nesting area.

  • Large dog crate (with walls on three sides)
  • Foldable/portable play crib
  • Pop-up tent
  • Extra-large cardboard box
  • DIY Build It Yourself
  • Nesting box
  • Feeder
  • Waterer
  • Bedding
  1. Look for a broody hen in your flock. Broody hens are the ones who lay eggs and don’t want to leave them. Her mothering instinct is in high gear but little does she know those eggs will never hatch. You are about to rock her world by giving her fertile eggs to sit on instead.

You’ll know you have one if she does several things.

  • She never leaves the nesting box.
  • She lays eggs in places outside of the nesting box.
  • If you attempt to lift her up to remove the eggs, she becomes cranky.
  • Completely picking her up and taking her out of the nesting box causes her to act a bit strange (her feathers fluff up, she is verbal, she takes on a low profile.) If she’s able to get back into the nesting box, she does so as fast as possible.
  1. Time to get your fertilized eggs. You can purchase them from a local breeder or someone you know who raises chickens. Remember that your broody hen can only sit on about three to five fertile eggs. Bantams should have less.

Now it’s time to put your plan into action! Are you ready?

Move The Broody Hen To The Brooding Box

First, place the fertilized eggs in the nesting box, which is inside the brooding box. Be sure the feeder and waterer are full. Pick up and carry the broody hen over to the brooding box and place her on top of the fertile eggs.

Suggestions for brooding boxes can be found in this article.

Rather than hover over her and continually checking on her, it’s best to leave her alone. Refresh her water, fill her food, and do minimal cleaning as needed, but that’s it. Let nature take its course.

Now there’s no guarantee the hen will sit on the eggs. Allow her a few days to acclimate. Fertile eggs will be fine, providing the temperature isn’t at or below freezing. If after a few days she refuses, you may need to find another broody hen or resort to using an incubator to avoid losing the eggs.

Mark your calendar for hatching 21 days from today once those eggs are “in the oven” (under a broody chicken.)

Hatching Day

Around day 21, you should hear tiny chirps from the brooding box. This is the fun part!

The hen and chicks will leave the nest to find water and food, where she will teach them how to eat and drink.

While she is out of the nesting box, remove any remaining eggs and eggshell. Change the bedding and clean as best as possible.

Newborn chicks are unable to regulate their body temperature. They rely on the hen to keep them warm. Supplying them with heat can also be done by adding a brooding lamp that supplies radiant heat. We never recommend using bulb-style lamps because of the high risk of fire danger.

After a week or two, you can relocate them to a separate area that is larger. Keeping them confined to a small brooding box leads to problems with ammonia buildup.

The chicks cannot be introduced to the flock until they are at least a month or older.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

The Last “Cluck”

Hatching eggs in a more natural way such as this makes for happier chicks. Incubators are more of a convenience for us. However, they unfortunately bypass crucial steps that are important in a chick’s life.

Perhaps if we were to imagine ourselves coming into the world in a container void of a mother, it might help us to pause and take stock of our choice of brooding or using an incubator.

Yemen chameleons are one of the most commonly kept chameleons in the UK at the moment as they are widely available, have great colours and are relatively easy to keep. At Northampton Reptile Centre they are one of the chameleons we most often recommend. If you plan to go further with the hobby and breed your very own Yemen chameleons we have created this handy guide on how to best incubate your chameleon eggs.

1. Prepare Your Egg Box

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

This seems like a very involved part of the setup, deciding which tub or medium to us, but it’s actually very easy. You will need a heat-resistant plastic tub with no ventilation that will be airtight when the lid is on. It’s best to check at this point that the tub will easily fit in your incubator. Give the tub a good clean with some reptile friendly disinfectant and rinse thoroughly with warm water. Once it’s clean and dry you can fill it with an incubation medium. The most common ones would be vermiculite or a pre-made medium like HatchRite. If you use vermiculite you will need to prepare it before adding to the tub, simply follow the instructions provided on the packet. Make sure the vermiculite isn’t wet as you don’t want the eggs to come into direct contact with water.

Once your incubation medium is ready, fill the tub around 3/4 full and press little indents into the top of it with your thumb. Leave a gap between the indents and the wall and a small gap between each indent. Yemen chameleon eggs are very small so you should have plenty of space and don’t need to place them too close together. The indents are where the eggs will rest.

2. Collecting the Eggs

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Collecting the eggs can be a very tense moment for people handling them for the first time but with proper care, you shouldn’t have to worry. The first tip is that you don’t want to put too much pressure on the egg and the second is that you should keep it upright the entire time it’s being handled. The eggs are fairly hardy and if found soon after laying are usually plump and easy to pick up. Simply pick the egg up between your thumb and forefinger with light pressure, hold your open palm beneath just in case and transfer it to your egg box. Each egg should have a small indent ready for it. Simply place the egg making sure it doesn’t turn and press the medium around it to secure it in place. You don’t need to bury the eggs, having it around 1/5th below the surface is more than enough to make sure they don’t roll when you move the box. Make sure you leave plenty of space between eggs so they don’t touch. Cover the tub with it’s lid and place into the incubator.

If you have multiple tubs in the incubator stacked one above the other you can number them to make them easy to organise. Keep note of how they stack (top to bottom) and which way around they are kept. Any time you take the tub out you’ll need to be careful to make sure it goes back in the same way. Eggs in warmer parts of the incubator will usually hatch first and there may be a few days between the warmest spot and coolest spot.

3. Setting up the incubator

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Your incubator should have both heating and cooling functions and be accurate to within 1 degree Celsius. Having both heating and cooling means the incubator can correct temperatures inside much quicker and deal with warm rooms much better than a unit with only heating. The most popular incubator we currently sell is the Lucky Reptile Herp Nursery II but Exo Terra also provide a good alternative.

The incubator should be set to 84 degrees Fahrenheit and tested to make sure it works perfectly before you need it. The products are high quality and very reliable but mistakes in transit can happen and you want to make sure your’s is definitely ready for when you need it. As a secondary check, you could keep another thermometer inside the incubator just to double check temperatures.

4. The Incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

It’s advised that you check your eggs as much as possible, we usually look quickly every day but have a good scan every week or so. You won’t need to take the lids off very often and it’s best to avoid interfering as much as possible as you may lose some heat or humidity. We usually just check on them through the door on the front of the unit. The main things to keep an eye out for are how plump the eggs seem and if any of them have perished or are going bad. The eggs are usually plump while the humidity is available when this starts to drop you may see them sink a little and start to shrivel. To fix this add a small amount of lukewarm water to one corner and check over the next few days to see if the condensation reappears and the eggs become plump again.

The eggs will need to breathe but don’t need very much air, once a fortnight or so we crack one corner to let the air recycle. The last thing to look for is discolouration on the egg. If an egg has perished or starts to go bad it will usually turn quite dark and shrivel up. We would usually keep these but isolate them from the rest of the clutch, it’s always surprising how resilient they are and these eggs still have a chance to come to term.

What happens next?

Your eggs will take roughly 6-9 months to hatch so it’s a long wait for chameleon babies. When the Yemen chameleon hatches it will cut through the egg then sit inside until the fluid has absorbed. Once this is done it will slowly come out and rest on the surface of the incubation medium. When the chameleon is fully out of the egg you can remove it and place it in the enclosure. If the chameleon is taking a long time to come out just be patient. If you are worried please give us a call so we can advise. Remember that they may all hatch at different rates so don’t worry if they aren’t all out and ready straight away.

2 Methods About How To Hatching Eggs And DIY Egg Incubator

Seeing the lovely chicken that you raise entered the laying season is such a happy thing. It means that you will have some new chickens. What should you do? Yap, you may think you have to hatch the eggs properly so they can hatch successfully. How to hatch the eggs at home or by yourself?

There are two methods for you to hatch the eggs, which is hatching eggs without an incubator and hatching eggs with an incubator. The first is traditional or manual and the second one is in a modern way.

Method 1: Hatch Eggs Without an Egg Incubator

This way is the simple way to hatch the egg manually and exactly it doesn’t need an egg incubator. What steps should be taken to hatch eggs without an egg incubator?

1. Make Sure You Have a Broody Hen

The important thing in this method is you need a broody hen around you. What kind of hen that better to use as a broody hen? Among the many hens, you can choose silkie chicken, cochin chicken, or Orpington chicken. These chickens are good hen and will incubate the eggs well in the nest.

A broody hen can help you if you have fertile egg but you don’t have an egg incubator | Hatching eggs naturally

In case you don’t know, a broody hen is a hen who instinctively and hormonally she wants to incubate her eggs. Then, how to know a broody hen is broody? The characteristic of the broody hen that you can observe is that the broody hen will usually be more often in the nest or cage. She will also be a little more fierce, especially when someone or other chicken intrudes on his territory. Usually, the fur will expand like when it incubates.

2. Setting The Nest / Cage For The Place Of The Eggs To Hatch

It will be better if you set the place for broody hen in a separate place, calm, quiet, clean, windless, and far from predators. Make sure the broody hen cage has enough space for her to eat, drink, and move. You can set the nest as comfortably as possible and give it a pedestal like rice straw.

If you are sure that the cage for the broody hen is ready, prepare your fertile eggs and put them in the nest underneath the hen. You can do this in the night because you will not bother the broody hen and make her still calm. Don’t forget to provide some enough food and drink for your broody hen, and place the food and drink away from the nest, so that if it spills it won’t hit the nest.

One of the characteristics of the broody hen is that it will develop its coat before and for a moment when it incubates. | Characteristic of broody hen

3. Make Sure There Aren’t Someone or Other Chicken Who Bother Her

After your broody hen starts to incubate the eggs, let her in the cage calmly. If you want to candle eggs, do it carefully and quickly. If you have another broody hen, it will be good. Because we will never know whether the broody hen will continue to incubate the eggs or if she suddenly leaves the cage and forgets the eggs. If this happens, you can still save the eggs and move them to another broody hen.

4. Wait Until The Eggs Fully Hatch

After approximately 21 days, the eggs will begin to hatch. However, it could be faster or longer than 1 or 2 days. Usually, the eggs will crack first and the chicks will come out on their own. Don’t move the eggs while they are still hatching and you don’t need to worry if the chickens don’t fully come out of their shells. Wait for 2 x 24 hours, if it still can’t get out of the shell, slowly help with your hands.

Pada penetasan telur secara alami biasanya telur akan dierami dengan jangka waktu 21 – 27 hari | image 2

Hatching eggs using the manual method without an egg incubator is indeed something that is challenging. There is a chance of success, but of course, the percentage of the successful hatching is greater if you use the egg incubator. However, you don’t need to worry, make sure you do each step correctly, and be sure that all your eggs will hatch well. Hatch eggs naturally using a broody hen, no need to turn the eggs. Because the hen will turn the eggs independently. For surveillance or candling, you can do it once or twice very carefully to make sure the eggs you are going to hatch are fertile and develop properly.

Method 2: Hatch Eggs With an Egg Incubator

Besides using the manual method, hatching eggs can also use modern methods, which is using an egg incubator. The percentage of eggs that will hatch if you use an egg incubator will be higher. The capacity of an egg incubator also varies. However, if it’s only for home use, it looks like you don’t need a large capacity.

The price of the incubator also varies. If you don’t want to buy it, calm down. We will share how to make your own egg incubator at home.

How To Make a Simple Egg Incubator?

This egg incubator is very simple, you can get the ingredients around you. What are the ingredients and how are they made?

Tools and Materials You Will Need

  1. Thick cardboard with a size of 30 cm x 30 cm x 30 cm. If the box is not thick enough, you can coat the cardboard of the same size.
  2. Good quality 5-watt bulb with good and stable heat.
  3. Several meters of cables and other electrical equipment to supply electrical power to a simple egg incubator.
  4. Scissors or cutter.
  5. The solution.
  6. Rice Straw.
  7. A place to put water, approximately 8-10 cm long.

The egg incubator can also help you to hatch eggs, even in large numbers. | Simple egg incubator

The egg incubator can also help you to hatch eggs, even in large numbers. | Simple egg incubator

How to Make a Simple Egg Incubator

  1. Prepare the cardboard, make a ventilation hole at the top of the cardboard with a size of 6 cm x 6 cm.
  2. Make another vent hole with a size of 1 cm, located at the bottom.
  3. To maintain air humidity inside the cardboard box, place the water container in one of the corners of the cardboard side.
  4. Place the rice husks on the bottom of the cardboard with a thickness of 3 cm. It should be covered under the husk using the newspaper.
  5. Install a light bulb with a power of 5 watts right in the center of the box, and the distance from the surface of the egg is 8-10 cm.

By using cardboard you can also make a simple egg incubator. | DIY egg incubator

By using cardboard you can also make a simple egg incubator. | DIY egg incubator

Hatching eggs requires patience and caution. If you do all the processes with joy and confidence, and on the basis of sufficient knowledge, you can start to hatch eggs independently.

Hopefully, our article helps, if you have criticism, suggestions, or questions, please comment on this below.

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Hatching your own chicken eggs can be a rewarding and educational experience. This guide will help ensure that you are prepared and informed prior to the arrival of your hatching eggs and ready for a successful hatch.

Step 1: The Incubator
There are several different features to look for in shopping for a home incubator. The simplest incubator will have a heat source controlled by a switch, that may or may not be controlled by a thermostat, and should also have a way to add humidity to the air inside of the incubator. Other features that may help produce a higher hatch rate include:

  • A fan to circulate air
  • An automatic egg turner to turn the eggs periodically
  • Digital display for temperature, humidity, and hatch day countdown

Your incubator should be set up and running at least 24 hours prior to setting your hatching eggs inside. This period will allow the environment inside of the incubator to stabilize and give you time to make any necessary adjustments before you place the eggs inside to begin the incubation period.
Location is important! Locate your incubator in a room that maintains a constant temperature, is free from drafts, and away from windows and direct sunlight. Also, make sure that your incubator is located where children and pets will not bump or disturb it during the 21 day incubation period.

Step 2: The Correct Environment
It takes 21 days to hatch chicken eggs. In order for chicks to develop properly, you will need to make sure your incubator is equipped with a very accurate thermometer and hygrometer (to monitor the humidity). The following are the recommended settings you should maintain for a successful hatch:

  • Temperature
    • Forced-air incubator (with a fan) 99.5 degrees F (acceptable range 99-100)
    • Still-air incubator (no fan): shoot for a range between 100 and 101 degrees F
  • Humidity
    • First 18 days the recommended range of relative humidity for chicken eggs is 45-55%
    • Final 3 days increase humidity to 60-65%

It is not as critical to maintain a precise humidity and you should expect the humidity to fluctuate. During winter months you may find that the humidity is more difficult to maintain and in the summer you may struggle to keep the humidity low enough. Follow your incubator manufacturer’s directions for how best to maintain humidity. Generally, you add humidity by increasing the surface area of the water reservoir and you lower humidity by allowing more fresh air intake.
Step 3: Set the Eggs
You should NOT set shipped eggs directly into an incubator upon their arrival. They need 24-48 hours to allow the yolks to settle and to reach room temperature. Setting cold eggs into a warm and humid incubator will cause the eggs to crack and the embryos will die. If you are not ready to begin the incubation period on the day that your eggs arrive, you may “hold” your shipped eggs for up to 10 days for best viability.
Before you handle hatching eggs always wash your hands thoroughly to prevent bacteria from entering through the porous eggshell. Place the eggs into a cardboard egg carton with the pointed end down and set in a quiet spot in the same room as the incubator. If you are holding the eggs for longer than 24 hours before beginning incubation, prop one end of the carton up a few inches. Rotate which end is propped up approximately every 12 hours. This helps prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

When you are ready to set the eggs into the incubator, mark an X on one side of the shell using a soft pencil, and an O on the other end. During the incubation period, you will rotate the eggs. Marking the shell helps you visualize that they have been turned properly and frequently. Even if you have an automatic turner in your incubator, marking helps you ensure that the turner is working properly.

Step 4: Incubating, Days 1-17
The first 17 days you will turn the eggs by hand (if you do not have an automatic turner) at a minimum of every 8 hours. Better hatch rates are usually the result of more frequent turning, but the trade off is every time you open the incubator it loses heat and humidity. Many people find that hand turning every 6 to 8 hours to be the “sweet spot”. If you do not turn the eggs, the tiny embryo can stick to the shell membrane and may die.
During the first 17 days, you will also monitor the temperature and humidity, adding water to the water reservoir as necessary to maintain the humidity. If you want to “candle” the eggs (using a high-powered light source to view the growing embryo) Day 7 and Day 14 are the best days to observe changes in the embryo. On Day 7 you should see a small dark spot with a few blood vessels radiating from it. The 7-day old embryo will resemble a spider on the yolk. At Day 14, the embryo is much larger and it should be difficult to see through the egg when candling, but you should be able to see through the air sac at the large end.
If any embryos appear to not be developing at Day 14, remove and discard these eggs to avoid a rotten egg exploding inside the incubator and ruining the rest of the hatch.
Step 5: Lockdown, Days 18-20
We call these final 3 days “lockdown” because you will not open the incubator until after all chicks have hatched and dried off. On day 18 of the incubation period, you should stop turning the eggs by hand or turn off and remove eggs from the automatic turner. The chicks are nearly fully developed and they will position themselves inside the egg to prepare for hatching. You also want to increase the humidity to around 65-70%. Again, the humidity is a range and not an exact number. The day before the hatch you should prepare their brooder to receive the chicks.
Step 6: Hatch Day
On day 21 you will begin to hear peeping from the inside of the eggs. Some of the eggs will likely begin to rock around a bit as the chick “pips” the shell. Hatching takes a lot of energy and it will be a slow process usually taking a full 24 hours for all chicks to complete the hatch. Make sure that the chicks are completely dry and fluffy before you open the incubator to move them into the brooder. The first-hatchlings will be okay to go 24 hours without eating or drinking while they wait for all chicks to hatch.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Some chicks may struggle to hatch, but do not assist. It is possible that there is something wrong with the chick and taking action to help the chick out can lead to you finding out that chick is ill or disabled. If you are successful in helping the chick fully hatch be prepared for a long-term commitment and possible veterinary visits and round the clock care. The chick may also require special accommodations and will need to be separated from other chicks, to ensure it has space to grow and recover without being stepped on by the other active chicks. So, before you decide to help the struggling chick out, make sure you are prepared to take action if there is something wrong with the chick.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Step 7: Clean Up
After all the chicks have hatched and are moved into the brooder, make sure to thoroughly clean and disinfect the incubator and all parts following the manufacturer’s directions. A 1:10 bleach/water solution is ideal for sanitizing.

Step 8: Enjoy your new chicks!
For information on how to raise and care for chicks, please take a look at our chick brooding post. If you have any additional questions we are just a phone call, chat or email away!

Mothering chicken eggs is not for everyone, but if you think it might be your calling, here’s how to do it.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Once a hen lays a clutch of eggs, instincts take over. They constantly fuss over them, adjusting them just so throughout the day and rarely leaving the nest for more than a few minutes. Motherhood is a big responsibility for a young hen – if she’s the least bit neglectful, her babies will never hatch. Or worse, they may hatch with deformities.

Modern chickens, it turns out, are not always very effective mothers. Whether it’s genetic or culture, who knows, but they get distracted, other hens oust them from their nest, the rooster comes by… there’s no shortage of things that can go wrong. For this reason, most farmers and backyard chicken enthusiasts don’t trust incubation to their hens, they take it upon themselves to do the brood work instead. You can also buy day-old chicks and skip the incubation process, but it costs more. Plus, why would you want to miss out on an opportunity to experience one of life’s miracles?

Step 1 – Set Up an Incubator

Depending on how many eggs they accommodate and how automated they are, Incubators run from around $50 for the homesteader favorite ‘Hova-Bator’ into the thousands of dollars for commercial scale incubators. With top-of-the-line incubators, you put in an egg, close the door and out pops the chick three weeks later. You can also go the DIY route, which saves money, but is almost as much work as sitting on the eggs yourself. No matter how fancy or jerry-rigged, all incubators must accomplish a few basic things:

Temperature: The eggs need to be kept at 99.5 degrees at all times; just one degree higher or lower for a few hours can terminate the embryo.

Humidity: 40 to 50 percent humidity must be maintained for the first 18 days; 65 to 75 percent humidity is needed for the final days before hatching.

Ventilation: Egg shells are porous, allowing oxygen to enter and carbon dioxide to exit; incubators need to have holes or vents that allow fresh air to circulate so the fetuses can breathe.

Homemade versions usually involve some sort of insulated box – a cheap Styrofoam cooler will do. An adjustable heating pad or a light bulb on a dimmer switch will suffice for the heat source and a pan of water with a sponge in it will make the air humid. Low-end commercial incubators don’t amount to much more than this, but the more you pay, the more automated the temperature and humidity controls will be.

A high-quality thermometer and hygrometer (a device to measure humidity) are the most important tools of incubation; cheap models are usually not accurate enough. If you’re not working with an incubator that has these instruments built in, opt for a combo thermometer/hygrometer with an external display. These have a sensor that goes inside the incubator with an LED screen on the outside that shows the temperature and humidity readings without having to open the incubator and ruin your carefully calibrated environment.

One time-saving feature is a device to rotate the eggs automatically. Much of the fussing that a hen does over her eggs comes from an evolutionary instinct to constantly move them about. The finely tuned ecosystem inside a chicken egg is kept in balance by constantly changing the position of the egg. High-end incubators have a built-in egg turning device, but there are also standalone egg turners that can be placed inside a homemade incubator to do the job. Or, you can rotate manually according to the instructions below.

The incubator should be placed in a location with the least possible fluctuation in temperature and humidity throughout the day – a basement is ideal, a sunny window is not.

Step 2 – Find Fertile Eggs

If you already have a flock of chickens that includes a rooster, the majority of the eggs they lay will be fertile. Collect them as soon as possible after laying and transfer to the incubator. If you don’t already have chickens, find a friend or a nearby farmer who does and ask if you can buy some fertile eggs. Websites like Craigslist and are a good way to link with people that may have eggs to spare. Some feed stores sell fertile eggs in the spring and there are many suppliers that sell eggs online.

The closer to home, the better the egg source. The jostling about and fluctuations in temperature and humidity that occur during transport are hard on the developing fetus. Hatching rates on eggs straight from the coop are often in the 75 to 90 percent range; with mail-order eggs, there is no guarantee that any will hatch.

When picking eggs to incubate, use those that are clean, well-formed and full-size. Above all, do not clean the eggs – there is a naturally occurring coating that is vital to the success of the embryo. Wash your hands before handling and be as gentle as possible, as the embryos are extremely susceptible to damage from sudden movements.

Ideally, the eggs are transferred directly to the incubator, but it’s possible to store them in egg cartons if needed. Kept at temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees and 75 percent humidity, the development of the eggs can be delayed for up to ten days without sacrificing the viability of the embryos. However, they must be stored with the fat side of the egg pointed up to keep the embryo alive.

Step 3 – Incubate

It takes 21 days on average for an egg to hatch once incubation begins. Before placing the eggs inside, turn on the heat source and measure the temperature and humidity over a 24-hour period, making adjustments as necessary to create the optimal environment. If the humidity is too high or low, use a sponge with more or less surface area to adjust it. Raise and lower the temperature of the heat source in tiny increments until the thermometer reads 99.5.

Once the incubator is functioning properly, it’s just a matter of maintaining the environment until the chicks hatch. Place the eggs on their side in the incubator, close the door and check the levels religiously to make sure nothing goes askew. Water may have to be added to the pan occasionally to keep the humidity up. At day 18, add more water to boost the humidity level.

If you’re going to turn the eggs yourself, there is a standard method to mimic the efforts of a hen:

  • Draw an ‘X’ on one side of the egg and an ‘O’ on the other to keep track of which eggs have been turned.
  • At least three times a day, gently turn the eggs over; more frequent turning is even better, but the number of turns per day should be odd (3,5,7 etc.) so that the eggs are never resting on the same side for two consecutive nights. Experts also recommend alternating the direction of turning each time – the goal is to vary the position of the embryo as much as possible.
  • Continue turning until day 18, but then leave the eggs alone for the last few days.
Step 4 – Hatching

In the final days before hatching. the eggs may be observed shifting about on their own as the fetus becomes active. The chick will eventually peck a small hole in the large end of the egg and take its first breath. It is normal at this point for the chick to rest for six to 12 hours while its lungs adjust before continuing to hatch. Resist the urge to help with the hatching process – it’s easy to cause injury!

Once the chick is free from the egg, let it dry off in the warmth of the incubator before moving it a brooder, where it will spend the first weeks of its life.

The use of egg incubator is the key advancement in artificial incubation. It aims to recreate the natural incubation condition a mother hen provides for the chicks. It also paved the way to mass chicks’ production and fast growth of poultry industry. Chicken egg incubators quicken the chicks’ development and life cycle to a hen or a rooster. However, since artificial incubation is from man-made heat using machines, there are chances of over temperature phenomenon which affects chicks’ negatively.

The over-temperature phenomenon when incubating chicken eggs

Incorrect temperature or humidity levels when incubating chicken eggs causes harm to the chicks. According to studies, the optimal temperature should be 37ºC to 38ºC for domestic poultry. Improper temperature means it is either too low or too high than the prescribed temperature.

Another factor is the drastic change in temperature levels. For example, if heat spikes suddenly, regardless of how long the duration is, it would still affect the eggs. The common cause of temperature spike and drop is a power outage.

Lundy research states four temperature levels that are dangerous to the eggs’ development. First is the zone of cold injury at -2°C/28.4°F where ice crystals can develop inside the egg, killing it immediately. Then the Zone of suspended development (-2°C – 27°C/28.4 – 80.6°F) where the embryo does not begin to develop. Next is the Zone of disproportionate development (27 – 35°C/80.6 – 95°F) where embryo’s parts develop on different phases. Meaning chick’s beak may develop late than its feet.

The next two zones will be the cause of over temperature phenomenon. Zone of hatching potential (35 – 40.5°C/104.9 – 84.5°F), there is still possible that the eggs would hatch. However, it is expected that the chicks would have abnormalities and deformities like the following:

  • Chicken hatched too early ( 2 days or 3 days early )
  • Chick pipped but not hatching
  • Hatch chicken blow bubble
  • Membrane stuck to chick/ chick hatched but still attached to the egg
  • Newly hatched chick not fluffy, hair sticky
  • Chick hatched with intestines out
  • Chicks dying between day 10 – 18

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

The most fatal over temperature zone is the Zone of heat injury (above 40.5°C/104.9°F). In this case, there is no chance that an embryo would live. However, if the embryos are already old (6 days old above) they can survive high-temperature exposure for a few hours.

The main reason why over temperature is harmful to eggs is heat causes evaporation. Eggs have natural water content inside that it gets through its egg shell’s pores. It eggshell is like its skin or nostril where air and water enter and exits. Overheating the eggs result to increase water loss or the embryo’s dehydration. Water is the embryo’s source of nutrients so without water, it is expected that chicks are malnourished and deformed.

Why overheat happen when incubating?

There are many causes of overheat. It can be due to human error, chicken egg incubator machine error or changes in the environment:

  • Set the wrong temp in the incubator- Human errors are inevitable in setting temperature. The person-in-charge may not know how to use the incubator or he got confused or does not know the difference between Fahrenheit and Celsius.
  • Environmental temperature is too high- Weather today is truly unpredictable due to global warming. If the environment’s temperature rises, the incubator’s temp should be lowered to avoid overheat.
  • Chicken eggs to the hatching stage heat very much
  • Technical or mechanical problems with Incubators- Technology is only good if it’s working. If the incubator suddenly breaks down, it would immediately affect the embryo’s growth and development.How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to solve the over temperature when incubating?

Prevention is still better than cure. Here we give you some tips to avoid over temperature when incubating eggs:

  • Reduce 0.2°C if more than 1/2 quantity of egg prepare hatching
  • Reduce 0.1°C if less than 1/2 quantity of egg prepare hatching
  • Monitor the incubator’s temperature on a regular basis
  • Train the person-in-charge of the incubation well.
  • Conduct a regular maintenance check in egg incubators to avoid sudden machine damage.
  • Keep an updated weather report to track temperature patterns so you can adjust the chicken egg incubator’s temperature readily.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Fertile eggs can be hatched by using an egg incubator. An incubator is an enclosed structure with a fan and heater to keep eggs warm during the 21-day incubation period. When determining which incubator to purchase, we recommend using an incubator with some automatic features, such as egg turning (which is critical to chick development and to keep the chick from sticking to the inside surface of the shell) and a fan to facilitate even heat distribution. Temperature and humidity inside the incubator are critical factors for successfully hatching eggs.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Keep in mind these are recommendations for hatching chicken eggs. If you are hatching eggs of other species, the specifications and incubation times will be different, so you will need to research those requirements and adjust your incubator accordingly. For that reason, it is not advised to incubate eggs from different species in the same incubator at the same time.

Day 1: Setting eggs

Once you have the incubator set-up and have analysed the settings to ensure accuracy, you are ready to place the eggs inside the incubator. Plan to set a minimum of six eggs at one time. Setting fewer eggs, especially if the eggs were shipped, often results in one or no hatchlings. The number of chicks that hatch together is especially important for the new-born chicks because chickens are flock animals and need companions to be happy. Place the eggs in the egg tray of the incubator, with the larger end facing up and the narrow end facing down in the incubator.

Day 1-18: Turning the eggs

After setting the eggs, the incubation process begins. An important part of this process is turning, or rotating, the eggs. Eggs must be physically turned to prevent the developing chick from sticking to the shell. More scientifically, the embryo should be resting on top of the yolk. The yolk tends to float upward, on top of the albumen (egg white) towards the shell if the egg is not turned. Eggs will need to be turned a minimum of 3 times per day, and 5 times is even better. If you have an automatic incubator, it should turn the eggs for you and will eliminate the need to repeatedly open the incubator. Be sure to wash your hands or wear clean gloves before you touch the eggs to prevent the transfer of skin oils or germs to the developing chick.

Days 7-10: Candling eggs

During the middle of the incubation period at 7 to 10 days, eggs can be candled to determine if the embryos are growing properly. Candling is the act of simply shining a light through an egg. White and light-coloured shells are the easiest to candle, while darker shells will require a brighter light.

Day 21: Baby chicks start hatching

Chicks will typically hatch at day 21. If the fertilized eggs were cooled prior to incubation, the process might take a little longer. If you are at day 21 with no hatch, give the eggs a few more days.
When the big day comes, let the chick hatch on its own. Do not attempt to help. Blood vessels that haven’t dried up yet may still attach the shell to the chick, and prematurely pulling of the shell can cause excessive, potentially fatal, bleeding. A chick can take up to 24 hours to completely hatch, although 5-7 hours is more common.

Our China broiler chick cage and poultry equipment Factory
Hebei Best Machinery And Equipment Co., Ltd.,found in 1996, 360KM from BEIJING city, from raw materials to finished products, strict implementation of ISO 9001:2008 quality management system.
Our Nigerian branch broiler chick cage and poultry equipment Factory
Rose of Sharon Plaza by Oko filing bus stop, Igando road, opposite Oando filling station, Lagos, production line is from our Chinese factory directly, 3 to 5 years longer using than local battery cages.

If you have any plan on poultry farm, please free to contact me, I supplying farm equipment and automatic rearing battery cage since 2009.

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BEST company manages a farm of 500,000 layers with 98% egg production rate and 200,000 broilers and 20 years poultry equipment manufacturing with supporting of advanced German production technology, please try to supply all following information and by it BEST company will customize your economical and manageable farm plan.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Incubating duck eggs is as straightforward as incubating chicken or quail eggs, but there are some differences you need to know about.

Incubating duck eggs from your own flock help you establish sustainability. No matter how small or large your flock is, being able to hatch ducklings from your own ducks ensures that you’ll have a steady source of eggs and meat well into the future.

Incubating duck eggs from your own flock also helps you:

  • Preserve the bio-security of your property and flock.
  • Continually improve upon your flock’s quality.
  • Pass on the immunity of your flock to the next generation.
  • Ensure that your new ducklings come from parents raised with your standards (organically, with no chemical medications, vaccination-free).
  • Improve on the temperament of your flock by only incubating duck eggs from your favorite birds.
  • Increase your hatch rate by incubating fresh duck eggs.

Length of Incubation by Breed

  • Mallards 26.5-27 days
  • Pekins 28 days
  • Runners 28.5 days
  • Muscovey 35 days (Not technically ducks but we can’t leave them out!)
  • All others 28 days

Collecting Duck Eggs for Incubating

You want to collect the cleanest eggs for incubating because you won’t be washing them before they go into the incubator. Washing eggs removes the bloom. Also, make sure the eggs are note cracked.

Incubate duck eggs that are a normal size. Eggs that are extra large are generally double-yolk and will not hatch. Smaller eggs are laid by young hens. You want your hens to have been laying for a few weeks before you collect their eggs for incubating.

Storing Eggs Before You Start Incubating

If eggs are stored for a while before they are set them in the incubator, they should be stored in a place with a mild temperature and good humidity level. That will minimize deterioration of the egg. Make sure you store eggs at about 55°F (13°C) and 75% of relative humidity.

Place them with their small end facing down and store them for as few days as possible. For best results, set eggs within 1-3 days from the time they were laid. Expect an average loss of about 3% hatchability for eggs stored for 7 days before setting and about 10% loss for those stored for 14 days prior to setting.

Purchasing an Incubator

Since duck eggs are larger than chicken eggs, make sure you buy and incubator with setting trays that are designed to accommodate their larger size.

There are so many incubators on the market that it’s hard to know what to buy. Your best bet is to search on Amazon for the size incubator you need, in your price range, and read the reviews.

The rule of thumb is that you want to read the 3-star reviews. Sometimes the five-star reviews are paid for so read those with that in mind. The 1-2-star reviews are usually disgruntled customers who probably didn’t read the directions that came with their incubator or just got unlucky with a damaged purchase that in the end was likely replaced for them or refunded. The 3-star reviews will give you the clearest picture of the quality and dependability of the incubator.

Setting Your Incubator

Turn on your incubator 2-3 days before you set your eggs to get the temperature and humidity right beforehand.

  • Set the temperature to 99.5°F (37.5°C).
  • Set the relative humidity to 55% (84.5°F on wet bulb thermometer).
  • Set ventilation to the recommendation of the manufacturer.
  • Set automatic turner to 4-7 times per day. You can also turn by hand if you don’t have an automatic turner.

Note: Your incubator must maintain 40-50% humidity for the first 18 days. For the final days of incubation 65-75% humidity is needed.

Location, Location, Location

Your incubator should be placed where there are very little temperature and humidity variations throughout the day. Next to a sunny window or near a frequently used exterior door is not ideal. A basement or other dark, windowless room is the best place.

Setting Your Duck Eggs

Set your clean, carefully examined and stored eggs in the incubator. Remember not to set eggs that are dirty, cracked, double yolked, misshapen, oversized or undersized.

Always set eggs in the turner with the small end down because the air pocket for the duckling is at the top of the large end. If you have an incubator that has no trays you can of course lay the duck eggs on their sides. Just make sure they don’t touch each other. This ensures that they are each evenly warmed.

On day one of setting, check frequently to make sure the incubator is working properly. You’ll also need to check the incubator twice a day or so to make sure it’s in proper working order.

Candling Your Incubating Duck Eggs

At about seven days after setting, candle your incubating duck eggs. Turn all the lights off in the room and hold a small flashlight (I like to use the light on my iPhone) up to one end of the egg. The egg will become illuminated and you’ll be able to see the insides.

Remove Bad Eggs

  • infertile (clear)
  • have dead germ (cloudy)

Transfer for Hatching

At 2-3 days before the incubating duck eggs are ready to hatch you’ll take them out of the turner and lay them in the incubator on in a separate hatcher. The eggs don’t need to be turned anymore so this is the last time you’ll touch them before the ducklings hatch. At the time of transfer, the temperature of the hatcher/incubator should be set at 99°F (37.2°C) and the humidity set at 65%.

On the day the ducklings hatch the eggs begin to pip. At this point you need to increase the humidity to 80% and increase ventilation openings by about 50%.

By the last day of the hatch the temperature should have been gradually lowered to 97°F (36.1°C) and the humidity should have gradually been lowered to 70%. Vents should be opened to their maximum setting by this point. Just remember, the more ducklings there are the more ventilation they need for fresh air. So make sure they have maximum ventilation without changing the internal temperature of the incubator.

Removing the Newly Hatched Ducklings

Remove the ducklings from the hatcher/incubator when at least 90% of them are dry. It’s best to let them all hatch out before removing them. I find that if I leave the hatched ducklings in the incubator it encourages the unhatched ducklings to pip and hatch out.

Note: I find this is especially true with quail. If they don’t hear others chirping and clashing around in the incubator they lose their desire to hatch and the hatch rate is drastically lower.

Place the ducklings in their warm brooder with water, food and source of heat.

Best of luck incubating duck eggs! If you have tips and tricks for incubating duck eggs that have worked well for you, please share them in the comments below!

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

  • Discard eggs that are damaged, cracked, unusually shaped, have thin shells, are too large, too small or soiled.
  • Eggs should not be washed because this removes a protective layer that coats the eggs. Washing eggs can contaminate the eggs as bacteria and disease from the surface can be transferred through the shell to the inside of the eggs.
  • Eggs should not be wiped with a damp cloth as this also removes the protective coating and can therefore allow the transfer of disease and infection through the shell.
  • If soiled eggs must be used, then these eggs could be incubated separately from clean eggs, to prevent cross contamination.
  • If soiled eggs are to be used, then they could be cleaned using a fine sandpaper that gently rubs the soil and debris from the shell without transferring it through the eggshell. Be careful not to rub too hard as this will remove the protective outer layer of the shell.

Related posts:

  1. Reasons For A Poor Hatch Rate Or No Hatching Eggs In An IncubatorThere are many factors which can effect the hatchability of.
  2. Hatching Eggs In An IncubatorThe hatching stage is the last 2-3 days of incubation.
  3. Biosecurity – Protect Your Poultry From Bird FluWith the news of an outbreak of bird flu of.
  4. Preparing The Incubator Before Incubating EggsPreparing The Incubator For Use Prepare the incubator 2-3 days.
  5. Guinea Fowl Eggs In The IncubatorOn Thursday I disinfected my incubator and set it up.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

Mkulima today don’t rush to purchase day-old chicks with the mentality of being an overnight millionaire. Farming is a marathon and not a 100-meter dash. If you wish for overnight success find a different thing to do. Today we cover a quick guide on the pre egg incubation checklist in poultry farming.

This content was originally produced by Golldy poultry farm. With that out of the way, let us dive in at the deep end.

egg incubation checklist

Got your fertile eggs? We hope you remember what we learned in our last post. Knowledge is power. Let us continue with our Incubation lesson now.

Your eggs need to settle for at least 24 hours if they came through a matatu or have just been collected.

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This allows a cooling period to rebalance CO2 levels.

Store eggs pointy end down in a cool environment, turning once a day while they are awaiting incubation.

After seven days eggs are getting too old for a successful hatch.

Is the incubator ready?

Ensure the incubator is clean and dry this is one of the most important during your egg incubation checklist as it will help you have healthier birds and avoid losses.

Position the incubator so that it does not have to be moved during the course of the incubation period.

Ensure the incubator is not exposed to direct sunlight, draughts, or disturbance from pets or children.

Run the incubator and ensure the temperature reaches the required setting and remains stable.

Fill the water reservoir and check the humidity reaches the required level and remains constant.

Check the correct function of your thermometer and place it at the same level as the eggs.

Monitor incubator carefully before setting eggs for incubation.

Is your thermometer accurate?

Place the thermometer in the incubator at egg height (not on the floor of the incubator) in order to get accurate measurements during the egg incubation checklist.

Run your incubator without eggs to check that your thermometers are accurate or which ones are similar for use.

Place your thermometer inside the incubator to ensure a consistent temperature. Ensure the thermometer is in good order (without gaps in the spirit or calibrated if digital).

Each time you pass the incubator, keep a note of the temperature or other observations during the incubation period. As you learn you’ll have these notes to look back on.

How do I check humidity?

Egg incubation checklist. Humidity is important in the incubator as humidity allows the correct respiration of the egg.

Knowing and trusting incubator humidity is a start, but is only one factor affecting what’s really important – successful embryo development and hatching.

If the humidity is too high or too low then the chick can grow all the way up to the hatch and then die or get stuck in the shell.

Average humidity is usually what matters most, so high or low humidity for a day is not significant if the overall average is correct.

Tip: when adjusting the humidity in a digital incubator wait about 2 hours before taking a reading.

Humidity can be measured using a Wet-bulb thermometer with chart – accurate however it requires a clean tube with constant water and well placed, absorbing wick

Hygrometer and humidity logger – dependant on batteries, accuracy, and calibration.

Learning how to read the egg is the single most important thing you can learn about humidity.

Two objective indicators of humidity are:

Egg weight (moisture loss)

Measure and chart a sample of your egg weights, against incubation days (preferably at the same time of day), then check that the weight loss is tracking well (13-15% loss during incubation), or against previous successful recorded batches. This gets more useful the more you do it.

Storage conditions can affect the moisture loss rate as will the type of egg (shell thickness, porosity, genetics, and the parent hen’s diet),

ventilation (moving air increases drying) and egg washing (removal of the ‘bloom’ increases moisture loss) as well as the season (if you are doing things the same way in July as you were in January, you have to expect different results due to the outside humidity).

Air cell size (explained further in the Candling Guide)

Candling focuses on the chick and air cell development in the egg. Use the candling guide and observe the air cell development in your setting eggs to determine if your eggs, from your flock, at your location, in your incubator, have the correct humidity settings that you know work.

If using the two methods above to check humidity, have accurate weight scales and a strong, single LED focused candler that has fresh batteries, along with paper and pencils near your incubator.

Truly focusing on chick development, rather than incubator humidity, is both relevant and reliable.

How long will it take?

The incubation period for chicken eggs is 21 days. Turn your eggs at least twice a day for the first 18 days, and stop turning after the 18th day.

This allows the chick time to orient itself inside the egg before piping. Remember we now have the best incubators with very high hatching rates that can make you profit at your farm. All sizes. Just make a call for more information 0726572541.

Credits: Golddy Poultry Farm

Having an agribusiness question? Do you know of a successful agribusiness venture or story that you wish to share? I would like to hear from you. Send me the TIP(s) at [email protected]

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Fertile eggs can be hatched by using an egg incubator. An incubator is an enclosed structure with a fan and heater to keep eggs warm during the 21-day incubation period. When determining which incubator to purchase, we recommend using an incubator with some automatic features, such as egg turning (which is critical to chick development and to keep the chick from sticking to the inside surface of the shell) and a fan to facilitate even heat distribution. Temperature and humidity inside the incubator are critical factors for successfully hatching eggs.

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation How to clean and prepare eggs for incubationKeep in mind these are recommendations for hatching chicken eggs. If you are hatching eggs of other species, the specifications and incubation times will be different, so you will need to research those requirements and adjust your incubator accordingly. For that reason, it is not advised to incubate eggs from different species in the same incubator at the same time.

Day 1: Setting eggs

Once you have the incubator set-up and have analysed the settings to ensure accuracy, you are ready to place the eggs inside the incubator. Plan to set a minimum of six eggs at one time. Setting fewer eggs, especially if the eggs were shipped, often results in one or no hatchlings. The number of chicks that hatch together is especially important for the new-born chicks because chickens are flock animals and need companions to be happy. Place the eggs in the egg tray of the incubator, with the larger end facing up and the narrow end facing down in the incubator.

Day 1-18: Turning the eggs

After setting the eggs, the incubation process begins. An important part of this process is turning, or rotating, the eggs. Eggs must be physically turned to prevent the developing chick from sticking to the shell. More scientifically, the embryo should be resting on top of the yolk. The yolk tends to float upward, on top of the albumen (egg white) towards the shell if the egg is not turned. Eggs will need to be turned a minimum of 3 times per day, and 5 times is even better. If you have an automatic incubator, it should turn the eggs for you and will eliminate the need to repeatedly open the incubator. Be sure to wash your hands or wear clean gloves before you touch the eggs to prevent the transfer of skin oils or germs to the developing chick.

Days 7-10: Candling eggs

During the middle of the incubation period at 7 to 10 days, eggs can be candled to determine if the embryos are growing properly. Candling is the act of simply shining a light through an egg. White and light-coloured shells are the easiest to candle, while darker shells will require a brighter light.

Day 21: Baby chicks start hatching

Chicks will typically hatch at day 21. If the fertilized eggs were cooled prior to incubation, the process might take a little longer. If you are at day 21 with no hatch, give the eggs a few more days.
When the big day comes, let the chick hatch on its own. Do not attempt to help. Blood vessels that haven’t dried up yet may still attach the shell to the chick, and prematurely pulling of the shell can cause excessive, potentially fatal, bleeding. A chick can take up to 24 hours to completely hatch, although 5-7 hours is more common.

Our China broiler chick cage and poultry equipment Factory
Hebei Best Machinery And Equipment Co., Ltd.,found in 1996, 360KM from BEIJING city, from raw materials to finished products, strict implementation of ISO 9001:2008 quality management system.
Our Nigerian branch broiler chick cage and poultry equipment Factory
Rose of Sharon Plaza by Oko filing bus stop, Igando road, opposite Oando filling station, Lagos, production line is from our Chinese factory directly, 3 to 5 years longer using than local battery cages.

If you have any plan on poultry farm, please free to contact me, I supplying farm equipment and automatic rearing battery cage since 2009.

Incubating eggs is the second step in breeding parrots. You could do the first part correctly and then fail in the second, causing you losing the new hatchlings. It’s very important to learn how to incubate parrot eggs properly, especially if the pair the eggs came from is mating for the first time.

So, How To Incubate Parrots Eggs?

To incubate parrots eggs, you will need an incubator prepared with rotation, temperature, and humidity systems. Calibrate the temperature to 99F, and the humidity should be between 40-65% to prevent the eggs from getting dry. Rotation is to imitate the movements of natural incubating by female parrots.

They could feel stressed and anxious, leading them to destroy their own eggs because of this tough time. And to incubate and hatch parrot eggs at home, you basically have two options. One is to let the mother do her job if you are sure that the mother won’t destroy the clutch of eggs.

The best way to determine this is to go back to her history. Did she mate and lay eggs before? Did she destroy her eggs before? If you do not know and you are just breeding parrots for the first time, I highly suggest that you use an incubator. In this article, you will learn everything you need on how to incubate parrot eggs, and how to hatch them at home.

How Do You Know If a Parrot Egg is Fertile?

If you found an egg inside you inside your parrot’s cage, you may want to know if the egg is fertile since some parrots can lay eggs with a mate. Obviously, if you have only one parrot without a mate, then it’s an unfertilized egg for sure.

The hen could lay unfertilized eggs even if the male mate is around in the same cage, and sometimes this actually could happen after mating, especially if they were mating for the first time because male parrots could do it wrong, and the female would lay eggs thinking that the fertilization happened correctly.

So it’s a good idea to make sure if the eggs are fertile or not, and here is a video showing that:

What to Do to Incubate and Hatch Parrot Egg at Home

First of all, to incubate parrot eggs, you have to decide whether you want to use an incubation device from the first time you find the eggs, or you want to give the mother a period of 5-1- days to do the job herself. The decision is up to you to make if you trust your parrot with eggs, then you are alright to let her incubate the eggs for a week or so.

However, knowing how many eggs you have will help to know which incubator is the best. Some parrots will lay 2 eggs, and some of them will lay 12 eggs during the breeding season.

So, take the eggs from the nesting box of your parrots, be careful some parrots could show aggression. Take them carefully and put them in the incubator. The bigger part (Air Cell) should slightly face the upper side, here the next picture to know where is the Air Cell.

Putting the egg this way will prevent them and save them from getting harmed when the incubator rotates them. You should get an incubator that performs this rotation, and set it up to rotate every 3 hours.

Most incubators won’t perform a full rotation, so you have to do it yourself once every day and flip the eggs 180 degrees toward the opposite side. Candling the eggs is essential to determine if the chicks are about the hatch, and you can do it just the same way I mentioned earlier in this post, just like you are checking if the egg is fertile.

You should look at the Air Cell, at the hatching time it will get a lot bigger, up to half of the egg, and when you see this enlargement in the air cell, you should remove the egg from the incubator to the hatching box, the rounded Air cell will turn to be a larger and elliptical shaped.

One of the 2 sides of this elliptical Air Cell will extend down to the opposite side of the egg, the other side will remain at the same place. And this is called the drawdown that indicates that the hatching is very close, and in most cases, it will happen in no more than 3 days.

Determining the hatching signs from the Air cell Enlargement and drawdown is easy, but it could be tricky, so I recommend that you candle at least one egg every day. This way, it should be easy for you to notice the differences when they occur.

You should use the brightest light you got to candle the eggs. The brightest light is always the better. This will allow you to notice many details that you need to determine the hatching signs.

If you find this hard and risky, it’s ok to let the eggs in the incubator until you see the first pip in the eggshell, then you are all good to put the eggs in the hatching box.

How Long Do Parrot Eggs Take to Hatch?

It depends on the breed. Some breeds need 24 days to hatch, some of them need 32 days, but almost every breed of parrots needs 18 to 34 days to hatch.

What Temperature Should Parrot Eggs Be Incubated at?

The perfect temperature and humidity actually depend on the breed the egg came from, but in general, almost all parrots eggs can hatch with a temperature around 99F.

Of course, this temperature is not ideal to breed parrots, but it’s only ideal to incubate the eggs, and you can only provide it with an incubator or by letting the hen d her job.

The humidity is also an important factor to get a higher success rate hatching parrot eggs, lack of humidity could lead to the eggs getting dehydrated, and the death of the chick, eventually.

The ideal humidity to incubate a parrot egg is between 40% to 65%. This also depends on the breed, so before you set a certain humidity degree in the incubator I suggest doing research online for the specific breed you got.

For example, if you successfully bred Quaker parrots, the ideal humidity for them is 65%, African grey, macaws, and cockatoos need different levels of humidity.

Can You Incubate Eggs Without an Incubator?

To hatch a parrot egg without an incubator, you need to imitate the perfect temperature, humidity, and continuous rotation that is found either in an incubator or under the hen. And just by thinking about it, it’s clearly a hard thing to do, especially for temperature and humidity. You will need a steady humidity and temperature to hatch parrot eggs without an incubator or the hen.

Any drop in humidity or rise in temperature could cause the egg to get dehydrated, leading to the death of the new chick. The rotation is also a necessary thing that the eggs need, at least every two hours. I don’t think it’s a very good idea to try to incubate the parrot eggs and hatch them without the mother or a specialized incubator; you are basically risking the new hatchlings.

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How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

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Many people choose to raise chickens; some as a commercial venture and others for a hobby. Chickens are quite easy to raise and can make fun pets. Fertilized eggs do require special care and will normally hatch into healthy chicks.

The first step in the selection process involves weeding out any cracked eggs. These can be cooked or thrown away because they will definitely not hatch. The most common way eggs are chosen for hatching is by a process called candling. This process distinguishes the duds from the eggs that have chicks growing inside. You can do candling by following these steps:

  1. Use a small bedside-sized lamp with a 60-watt flood light bulb installed.
  2. Cut a 2-inch hole into a thick piece of cardboard. The egg will sit on this hole.
  3. Hold the cardboard over the operating floodlight and place the egg on the hole.
  4. Observe the egg and check for a bacteria ring, a porous or cracked shell, or a growing chick with blood vessels.

If eggs need to be stored before they go into the incubator, they must be kept below room temperature.

  1. Fresh eggs up to five days old can remain at a temperature in the low 60s.
  2. If the eggs must wait longer than five days before hatching, place them in the refrigerator in an egg carton. Prop the egg carton at a 45-degree angle to increase the eggs’ chance of hatching. They can stay in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

An incubator is anything that will keep heat and humidity at a constant level throughout the hatching period. It can be as simple as a plastic foam cooler with a humidity gauge and thermometer, or as complex as a large, specialized incubating machine that’s complete with automatic egg turners and heat and humidity adjustors.

  1. Cut a 4-by-6-inch hole in the side of a 10-gallon plastic foam cooler.
  2. Remove the glass from a 5-by-7-inch picture frame, and glue it to the inside of the cooler (over the hole) to create a window.
  3. Cover the bottom of the cooler with a 1-inch layer of aquarium gravel or sand and pour 2 tablespoons of water inside.
  4. Place a thermometer, a 15-watt bulb, and a hygrometer inside.
  5. Regulate the temperature and humidity for three days before placing the eggs inside.

The three most important factors for success in the incubator, besides fertile eggs, are turning, temperature, and humidity.

  1. In order to keep track of turning, use a pencil to draw an X on one side of each egg.
  2. Turn the eggs three times a day so no chick becomes stuck to one side of its egg.
  3. Three days before the hatching date, stop turning the eggs.
  4. The temperature should remain constant—between 96- and 98-degrees Fahrenheit.
  5. Humidity should remain between 55 and 60 percent.

Sanitation is extremely important for anything that will be in contact with hatching eggs. Make sure that all hands are washed and that the incubator has been rinsed out with bleach.

  1. Dilute a quarter cup of household bleach into a gallon of water.
  2. Wash out the inside of the incubator, including the lid and any tools.
  3. Place it in the sun to dry.
  • Learn to candle eggs properly. Many have no hope of hatching, even with the best care and incubation.
  • If the humidity is too low or too high, many problems may occur.
  • Be sure to turn the eggs properly. Even if improperly turned eggs do hatch, the chicks may be deformed.
  • If the eggs were shipped, make sure to candle them to see if their air sacs were damaged.
  • How to Incubate Chicken Eggs: The Complete Guide
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  • Murray McMurray Hatchery: Hatching Eggs
  • Mississippi State University: Sanitation of Hatching Eggs
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  • Mother Earth News: Build Your Own Incubator

How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

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  • Jul 20, 2015
  • #1
  • How to clean and prepare eggs for incubation

    The Dog Trainer

    I put my eggs in a plastic shoe box with a lid on it and put the shoe box in the incubator. You can drill a couple of very small holes around the top of the container, but not on the lid. I use vermiculite as an incubation media. I mix it in a 1 : 1 ratio with water by weight for Sulcatas and Leopards, but some species, like Russians, might need it drier I put my empty shoe box on a scale and set the “tare” weight. Then I add as much vermiculite as I want in there and record the weight. For example; 300 grams of vermiculite. Then I set an empty cup on the scale and reset the tare weight again. 300 grams of vermiculite means I need 300 grams of water. I mix in the correct weight of water and let it all set up and get absorbed. There is no hurry to get the eggs out of the ground. They can sit underground for months and in fact, I get better hatch rates if I leave them in the ground for a while. This will allow you to hatch them all at the same time, if you wish, by digging them all up and starting incubation on all the eggs at the same time instead of digging up each nest as it is laid. In any case leave the eggs in the ground until your incubator is up and running and stable with the empty incubator boxes in it.

    Next thing: You have to know that sulcata eggs hatch in about 90-95 days at 88-89 degrees. Leopard eggs take a little longer. Russian eggs hatch sooner. It varies by species. When I see the first pip, I add a little water around the edge of the incubation shoe box, but not directly on the eggs, and I bump up the humidity. This helps the babies hatch and simulates the rain that induces them to hatch and eventually dig up and out of their wild nests. It can take 2 hours or two days for them to “hatch”. Its a process, not an event. When they leave their egg on their own power.

    . I immediately rinse them and put them into some warm shallow soaking water while I prepare their brooder box. The brooded box is the same thing as the incubation box. Just a plastic shoe box with a couple of tiny holes drilled in it around the top. Come to think of it, I also use these shoe boxes as their soaking tubs initially. Anyhow, I line the bottom of a clean shoe box with two plain white paper towels. No prints or scents and they’ve got to lay flat, so fold or cut as needed. I use those half-sheets since they fold in two and fit my shoe boxes perfectly. I spray the towel with a handheld water sprayer just enough to make them damp, but not wet. Then I rinse the eggshell just enough to get any vermiculite off of it and I put that and some greens in the center of the brooder box. Put the soaked, vermiculite-free baby in this brooder box, put the lid on, and put the brooder box back in the incubator or somewhere similarly warm. I prefer 4-5 babies per box, but you can go up to 6. 7 is getting too crowded. Do NOT be in a hurry to get the babies out of the brooder box. They usually take 7-10 days to absorb their yolk sac and close up their umbilical scar. In the wild they might stay down in the nest for weeks. There is NO rush to get them out. During this time you should be introducing all sorts of new foods to them. I feed them something different everyday. They start slow at first, but after a few days, they usually begin chowing down. THIS stage is where they learn what is food. Make the most of this stage by introducing freshly sprouted grass clippings (for grass eating species), leaves, weeds, flowers, tender young spineless opuntia pads and anything good you can get your hands on. The more the better. Do not let them run out of food, or they will starting eating the paper towels.

    When the yolk sac is fully absorbed and the umbilical scar closed, they are ready for their first “real” enclosure. This should be a closed chamber that has already been running, checked and re-checked for proper temps and humidity. Babies are very hardy if started this way, but babies have a much smaller margin of error than older ones. They don’t have time for people to figure things out. Take that 7-10 days of them in the brooder box to set up the baby enclosure and get everything perfect BEFORE moving the new babies into it. Let it run day and night and make the needed adjustments to get things just right.

    Tortoise tables are not good for babies unless the entire room is warm and humid 24/7.

    Leaving babies outside all day is not good for them, no matter where you live. Babies thrive with the stability of being indoors and short daily excursions to the great outdoors in a safe enclosure during fair weather, followed by their daily soak on the way back in. Yes. Soak babies every day for at least the first few months. Its certainly not the end of the world if you skip one day on a 85 gram ten week old sulcata baby, but try to do it daily.

    Babies should NOT be left on their substrate in the incubator while absorbing their yolk sacs. Contrary to popular opinion they DO eat while they have a yolk sac, and if left on the incubation media, they will eat large amounts of it. Even with my methods, when I see their first poop in two or three weeks (that’s how long it takes..) there are some flecks of vermiculite in their first bowel movements. Can you imagine how much they would eat if left in their for days or weeks? No bueno! For this reason, I am of the opinion that Perlite should NEVER be used to incubate tortoise eggs. That stuff can literally kill an otherwise healthy baby, but it won’t kill them until weeks or months later. I speak from experience here.

    Follow these steps and you will have healthy, well started babies, that won’t die weeks or months down the road.