How to cut face framing layers

There is nothing better than visiting a hair salon with your long, heavy hair and leaving it with a lightweight, styled cut which will make the heads turn.

But there are times when you just can’t visit your favourite hairstylist – whether you are travelling and you wouldn’t trust anyone else, or in situations outside of your control, such as the Coronavirus lockdown. The time comes to cut your hair at home, which is at best – risky, and at worst – it can turn into an absolute disaster without the right guidance and skills.

Fortunately, cutting face-framing layers at home is absolutely possible and the results can be stunning if you execute the cut correctly. And what a better teacher than Paul Edmonds himself, who has revealed his exclusive layering, face-framing haircut technique for the first time ever in this blog.

1. How to Prepare the Hair for the Haircut?

Before you cut your hair make sure that all product residue is removed, the scalp is clean and the hair is detangled from the roots to the tips. Start by gently washing your hair with a deep-cleansing shampoo such as Shu Uemura Moisture Balancing Cleanser for Dry Hair & Scalp . This gentle shampoo is paraben and oil-free and will deeply purify and nourish the hair.

Follow up with Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil Conditioner , which contains Onsen-inspired ferment. The conditioner will rebalance the scalp to leave it feeling refreshed and rejuvenated, giving it long-lasting shine.

Finish with applying Shu Uemura Essence Absolue Multi-Purpose All-In-Oil to detangle and soften the hair and protect it from heat.

How to cut face framing layers

Shu Uemura Essence Absolue

Gently blow-dry and comb through the hair. Then you are ready to start shaping the layers.

2. Face-Framing Layers. Yes or No?

Face-framing layers are a great way to accentuate face features, adding volume to thinner hair and shaping curly, unruly hair. In short, if you have been considering having a hair cut which features face-framing layers you are probably on the right path.

How to cut face framing layers

Just remember that although layers are good for definition, you want them to be soft and not too short, in order to avoid frizz and breakage. When cutting your own face-framing layers at home, you need to be extremely careful, gentle and patient to avoid creating sharp edges or eighties-style hairdos.

Where should face-framing layers start?

Even though you want to add texture and definition to your hair, make sure your layers start close to the chin, or below the nose for medium to long hair lengths. Bobs will require shorter layers, but they are best left to professionals .

How to Cut Face-Framing Layers at Home?

The major thing you will need to remember if you decide to cut your own face-framing layers at home is to be as slow and gentle to the hair as possible.

Though short hair can be challenging to cut, as there is less space for mistakes, long hair is actually the trickiest when it comes to layering and shaping. The method below will focus on cutting face-framing layers for long hair, but it can be successfully applied on medium and shorter hairstyles as well.

Remember – start with a clean, conditioned and detangled hair.

1. Start by shaping the bangs/fringe

Start off by taking a front, shallow triangle section of hair at the front of your head, on both sides of your hairline. Start at chin length then blend into the sides. Merge the two parts you sectioned off and comb forward, ensuring you comb from the root through to the tip. The aim is to create a soft concave shape, without cutting off too much.

Place the comb about midway in the hair and spin it around – this will help you make the concave shape. Start by chipping, NOT CUTTING the hair. When you are finished, twist around and release. You’ll see the concave shape has been created. Make sure the two side pieces are of the same length.

2. Continue by cutting in sections

From here on you want to continue cutting the hair in the same manner, again, without taking off too much at the ends.

Take the next hair section, about 1cm wide, parallel to the first section. Clip the rest of the hair back and mirror the same action on the other side.

Remember to not cut straight but rather to chip the ends. Hold the hair lightly in the fingers and chip the ends. Make sure you don’t take off too much at this stage, only do it gently and slowly.

3. Apply a Sliding Cut

For the third section, you will also take about 1cm in width and mirror the same action on the other side of the hairline. From now on, we want to apply a different style of hair cutting, known as a sliding cut. Continue to cut slowly, as you want to make sure you’re in control of every single hair.

To do a sliding cut move the scissors down slowly as you cut through the 1cm strand of hair. Check that both sides are even.

Repeat with another 1cm of hair, until you reach the back of the head.

4. Final Trim and Style

When you have finished cutting your face-framing layers, comb and check the graduation.

You should have ended up with an oval or triangle, and the haircut should not be heavier or longer on one side or the other.

Finally comb through from the roots and chip away to achieve a soft finish. Then comb it through a few times to ensure that there are no bits left longer.

Finish the haircut by applying Shu Uemura Shusu Sleek Smoothing Treatment for 20-40 minutes to nourish and smoothen the hair, for a gorgeous, shiny, salon-quality hairstyle.

How to cut face framing layers

Shu Uemura Shusu Sleek Collection

To purchase any of the products from the Shu Uemura Art of Hair browse the Paul Edmonds London online shop.

If you are looking for further tips and tricks to keep your hair healthy at home, check out our blog and Instagram – @PaulEdmonds217 and follow our YouTube channel.

Here at Sam Villa, we make it a point to offer as much value as possible to all hairdressers by giving you options, because let’s face it – not every technique that we demonstrate will be right for every guest that sits in your chair.

This week, we’re excited to share another face framing technique that is especially great for your guests with long layered hair. By utilizing a V-shaped design technique, you will provide your medium to coarse haired guests the perfect face frame with the right amount of lightness and movement!


  • To begin, place your client in a natural head position with them looking forward, then locate the high point of the head.
  • From the high point of the head, you’re going to draw a line from the hight point of the head to behind the ear on either side of the head.
    • Why behind the ear and not to the top of the ear? Great question! The hair changes density at the top of the ear and you want to make sure you are gathering all of the hair on the side of the head to create the best possible face frame.
    • Pick up your Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear for this next step. Since you are cutting through a large, dry section of hair, this shear will perform better without pushing the hair due to the reinforced blade design and length of the blade.
    • Over direct the entire top rectangle section forward to an imaginary square line in front of the head.
    • Elevation is 90° horizontal (meaning, the hair will be horizontal/flat with the floor).
    • The length that you cut the hair is determined by the shortest point where you want the face framing layer to fall. An easy way to measure this is to elevate all of the hair forward then drop a small piece out to see where it falls on the face. Pinch that point with your index finger and thumb then bring it back to your section and that will be your guide.
    • Next, you’re going to cut a V into the front of the rectangle section, making sure that you are cutting from long on the outside to shorter in the center.Go back and clean up your cutting lines until you have established a well balanced “V” cutout in the section, then you can release the hair.
    • Begin by taking a center part.
      • Hot Tip: If your guest wears a side part, shift your part to the side so the face frame is more even.
      • Note: As long as your perimeter lengths were balanced prior to cutting the V, you will have balance on either side of the head.

      There you have it! A simple way to cut V-shaped face framing layers for your long haired guests. As we mentioned earlier, this technique is perfect for your guests with medium to coarse hair types because it will add layers and lightness with plenty of movement.

      Give it a try in the salon and be sure to come back and let us know how it went.

      If you have any questions or comments please leave them in the box below. Make sure you join our email list and be the first to know when we release new free education!

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      by Cindy Marcus i

      Cindy has over 15 years of experience as a hair stylist and colorist in Las Vegas, NV. She started this website in 2005 and has influenced over 100 million people. She’s personally interviewed over 5,000 hair stylists, colorists and barbers about their work. Her work has been featured in major beauty magazines and online publications. Learn more about Cindy and connect on LinkedIn.

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      How to cut face framing layers

      Face-framing layers on short hair create soft, voluminous styles that highlight your best features. The face frame benefits most women as it makes flattering cuts, versatile to any face shape.

      Stylist Jordan Holmes of Mashpee, MA explains the perks of having this type of haircut.

      “Face-framing pieces make you feel ‘layered’ without having too much layering cut throughout the hair. These draw attention to your face and are also great for medium to long-length cuts,” says Holmes.

      However, short hairstyles with layers aren’t for you if you don’t like your hair on your face or if you love tying it up.

      Hair type can dictate whether a layered chop works on you. Layers remove a lot of weight in the front, which may disadvantage thin-haired ladies. Bangs are a great option, instead.

      If exploring face-framing layers with short hair for the first time, Holmes suggests starting off with a longer length. “Opt for subtle and long face-framing layers, then work your way shorter,” she states.

      During the consultation, ask your stylist if the layers go well with your desired cut. Make sure you have the ideal hair texture and density to achieve the look.

      Hairdressers must be honest about how they feel about your chosen cut. They also know some tips on what to do to style and maintain your tresses.

      Don’t settle for boring hairstyles. Find here the images of the trendiest ways to rock face-framing layers on short hair.

      When it comes to cutting your own hair, even a simple trim can turn out disastrous if you have no idea what you're doing. That's why, under normal circumstances, we'd never recommend attempting to cut your own face-framing layers at home, as it only increases the chance for things to go awry. Now is the exception, though, seeing as we're living in uncharted territory due to the on-going pandemic, and many folks are still steering clear of salons and choosing to play hairstylist at home.

      Despite the current situation, some experts still don't suggest cutting your own hair if it's anything other than a straightforward trim. "My advice for cutting your own face-framing layers is simply. don't," says New York City-based hairstylist Sherene, who's responsible for giving Jonathan Van Ness a new lob. "We are in post-lockdown in most states now, so visiting salon professionals is the best way to achieve the best results."

      Still, if you're set on doing it yourself, it can be done, so long as you're careful and work extremely slowly. Also, being in a calm state of mind is key, according to Los Angeles-based hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons. "Cutting your own layers seems to be something that's really daunting for most people, but stressing out is only going to make it worse," he tells Allure. "Take a deep breath before you start to help yourself relax."

      Of course, deep breathing will only get you so far. You need to have some technique up your sleeve, too. Luckily, we managed to gather some tips and tricks from experts who understand how tempting it can be to cut your own hair right now.

      1. Dampen hair and grab your tools.

      Before you do any cutting, make sure you're equipped with the proper tools. In this case, the professionals say you should shoot for a quality pair of shears (this guide has a number of expert recommendations, including Pacinos' Signature Line Styling Shears), especially since you're doing more than just a blunt cut.

      "Make sure you have hair-cutting shears and not the craft or kitchen scissors you have laying in a drawer somewhere," says Fitzsimons. "Those will actually cause more damage to your hair, and it's a good investment if you plan to be cutting your hair yourself frequently."

      Additionally, Fitzsimons strongly suggests having a comb on hand (we like the Carbon Tail Comb by Harry Josh Pro Tools). "A comb is definitely a must when cutting layers in order to distribute the hair for an even cut," he says. "We want feathered layers, not chunks!"

      Speaking of which, working on damp hair can allow for a more "precise cut," according to our experts, so spritz your strands with some water beforehand — or wait for your hair to dry roughly three-quarters of the way after washing it.

      2. Part and section your hair.

      Once you're prepped and ready with your tools laid out in front of you, part your hair where it normally falls. Then, it's time to section the hair, which is super important as it ultimately determines how much you cut.

      "Always make sure to section your hair and clip away any pieces that you don't want to cut," says New York City-based hairstylist Erickson Arrunategui.

      The hair you'll want to work with should be at the "very front top of the head," explains Fitzsimons. "It should make a triangle shape into your part — this will be the hair you use to create your layers or bangs."

      3. Start cutting slowly.

      The speed in which you cut truly can't be stressed enough. "You can always trim more if you want, but you can't put it back once you make the cut," says Fitzsimmons.

      Now, when you're ready, take the front triangle section of hair you created and divide it down the middle, as these will be the pieces used to create your layers. "Hold one section at a time, and cut at a diagonal parallel to the section's part," says Fitzsimons. "Then repeat this step with the other section, being careful to match the length of hair on the opposite side."

      As far as length is concerned, Brooklyn-based hairstylist Teddi Cranford says it can be helpful to use your own face as a guide. "When cutting your own hair, always go a little longer and use your facial features as reference points," she says. "For example, the shortest pieces should be around your nose and the longest ones should be at the chin."

      Another tip from Cranford? "When creating your own face-framing bits, you want to slightly elevate and cut up and into the hair," she says. "We call this point cutting."

      Arrunategui elaborates on this technique. "Point cutting is when you hold the scissors at the ends of the hair and cut small amounts of hair at a time while keeping the ends soft. You can also do this technique to remove bulk without taking length off."

      If you're a beginner, point cutting could be a great option to try because it's so straightforward, whereas Fitzsimons' method might feel a little advanced for your skill level. Whatever you choose, remember to go slow and only snip off a tiny amount of hair at a time.

      4. Make sure both sides are equal.

      After you've done the damn thing (congrats!), it's all about making sure both sides match up. For this, simply combine the sections of hair that you separated before cutting, and then comb it all downwards in front of your face to see if it's even. If some pieces are longer than others, pull the scissors back out and do a little point cutting until everything's the same length, but be careful not to take off too much in the process.

      5. Style to see what needs touching up.

      The final step — which is optional — is to actually style your hair, as this can help you see if anything needs adjusting. "Blow-dry the hair with a round brush and simply fix the layers as you see fit," says Fitzsimons. Alternatively, you can rough-dry your hair if that's what you normally do. Either way, styling your hair afterward will reveal if any further work needs to be done.

      How to cut face framing layers

      Texture has taken on a whole new movement when it comes to the hairdressing industry. Just as we saw layers upon layers of fabric walk down the runways this year at fashion week, we’ll be seeing layers upon layers of texture make their way into the art of hair cutting. Clients are on the search for movement, volume and a change to their existing look and face-framing layers are the perfect way to bridge that gap!

      Sometimes your cutting techniques need a little refreshing as the seasons change. If you’re looking for a new way to cut soft face-framing layers we’ve got a few tips for you! Sam Villa, Co-Founder of Sam Villa and Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken, uses diagonal sections and high elevation in this easy to replicate approach that creates predictable layers with a soft organic edge. Watch the video to see the method in action and keep a few of the following tips in mind!

      Things to Keep in Mind

      • Use a middle part and diagonal elevated sections so hair moves itself forward. The elevation creates softness and the angle creates the face frame.
      • Use a dry cutting shear. Not only is hair easier to texturize when dry, but techniques are also more effective and the longer arms on the Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear allow for a deeper point cut.
      • Create the guide on a diagonal and then fan and point cut. Place your thumb in the center of the index finger and push to curl hair around the thumb. Stabilize shear and open and close while moving through hair – this keeps it parallel to the hair so just weight is taken out.
      • For the next section, go one finger width longer than the guideline to create a soft framing edge. Repeat for each section.
      • The over direction point is to the center part; use the spine of the comb to match up.
      • When cutting on the opposite side (left), the shear points down instead of up (if right-handed), so take the section on the opposite side (left), then move back to the right side and do the cutting there.

      Texture can be a tricky look to achieve because there is no exact formula to it. Many times the texture is unique to the cut, the style or specifically the stylist. Everyone learns how to texturize in his or her own unique way and it is through action that you build your expertise. “Texture is all visual and feel, there’s no way to cross check it, so don’t go looking for hair to cut, be at peace with the fact that sometimes you will cut more than other times,” says Villa. The best thing you can do is to go in with a plan. Take things slowly and check your work from different angles as you’re working through the cut. Run your fingers through the hair, comb it, tousle it, and see how it moves! This will give you a better idea of how what you’re doing with shears will affect the finished style!

      For FREE education, special promotions and weekly inspiration and online workshops, be sure to sign up HERE!

      Looking for even more hair care and styling tricks, be sure to stalk Sam Villa Professional on Bangstyle and check out all of his tools in the Bangstyle Store!

      Whether pony, layered bob, or long layer step-cut – face-framing layers will remain a favorite in 2022. Here are the 7 most beautiful trend hairstyles.

      Face framing layers: Why layers are part of the hairstyle trends 2022?

      Cuts in which the hair is “layered” around the face are so popular because they actually suit every hair type and every hairstyle wish. They are particularly suitable for fine hair – they provide a real push of volume.

      Face framing: What is the difference between XL bangs and layered cuts?

      These looks are very similar and get confused more often than you think. When asking your stylist for layers or curtain bangs, it's important to know the difference so you can get the result you want. A lot of times people ask for bangs when what they really mean is face-framing layers, and end up with shorter bangs than expected – a real letdown if it doesn't turn out what you expected.

      Curtain bangs are very popular right now. They are worn with a middle parting, the bangs usually reaching from the eyebrow to the cheekbones. It also gradually lengthens as it falls from the eyebrow, creating a curtain effect.

      Layers repeat this shape but are longer. This type of layered look is often chin-length or longer and can usually be tucked behind the ear. The layers blend seamlessly into your look and don't look like they're fringed.

      Face Framing Layers: These are the 7 most beautiful looks

      1. Long layers

      Layers in the lengths bring movement to the hair and blend in completely naturally with the rest of the hairstyle.

      2. Framing layers with bob

      Layers also give a bob more dimension – a nice change from the otherwise rather straight style.

      If you find yourself looking in the mirror wondering what you can do to spice up your one-length haircut, we have just the answer: face-framing layers! In case you didn’t already know, face-framing layers involve your hairstylist cutting your hair in varying lengths at the front of your face in order to define or “frame” your features. That said, as with most beauty trends, face-framing hairstyles aren’t a one-size-fits-all deal—there’s a face-framing haircut that’s best suited for every face shape. To help you out, we’ve taken it upon ourselves to breakdown the best face-framing layers based on your face shape. Ready to switch up your mane with a new cut? Read on!


      If you have an oval face, you’re lucky—there is no shortage of options when it comes to layered haircuts that will suit your face shape. Since your symmetrical shape gives you a bit of leeway, consider emphasizing its symmetry with some face-framing bangs—curtain bangs, to be exact. Pair this with long, face-framing layers that start beneath your chin, and you’ll be sure to turn heads! To style, try adding some heat-free texture by applying the L’Oréal Paris Advanced Hairstyle CURVE IT Elastic Curl Mousse to damp strands, scrunching, and allowing your hair to air dry.


      Those with a heart-shaped face have a wider forehead and narrower chin. Your ideal face-framing hairstyles will take attention away from your forehead. This is why face-framing bangs, like those curtain bangs we talked about, and long, subtle face-framing layers, which will help balance out the bottom half of your face, are just what you need. To really define and emphasize your already prominent cheekbones, ask your hairdresser for face-framing bangs that just graze the highest point on your face.


      Square faces are equal in height and width and have sharp, defined features. Use your face-framing layers to help soften your features while adding a bit of length. To do this, you’ll want to ask for soft, wispy long layers. Pair them with side-swept bangs for a winning ‘do! To style, create large, bouncy curls—just be sure to spritz your strands with the L’Oréal Paris Advanced Hairstyle BLOW DRY IT Quick Dry Primer Spray prior.


      If you have a round face, you likely already know that the goal of your haircut should be to add length to your visage. To create the illusion of an elongated face, ask your stylist for long, face-framing layers that start below the chin. Style with loose waves that are focused on the ends of your hair. Don’t forget to set your look with the L’Oréal Paris Elnett Precious Oil Satin Hairspray!


      Diamond faces feature a small forehead, defined cheekbones, and a tapered chin. Since your cheekbones are so sharp, you’ll want your face-framing layers to help soften their appearance a bit. Opt for medium and long layers that fall past your cheekbones. Side-swept bangs are also a great addition!


      What’s a triangle face shape? This involves a smaller forehead and a more prominent jawline. So, it should come as no surprise that your best face-framing hairstyle is all about adding volume at the top of your head. Ask your stylist for face-framing bangs that will help add fullness around your forehead. Styles like blunt and rounded bangs will be most flattering!


      As with square faces, rectangular faces look best with face-framing layers that help soften their chiseled features, like wispy layers. If you have a long forehead you’d like to minimize, you’ll also find that face-framing curtain bangs are a great option!


      Speaking of long faces, if you have an oblong face shape, ask your hairdresser for face-framing strands that will help shorten your face and define your features. Side-swept bangs and face-framing layers that stop at your cheekbones are our top choice.

      How to cut face framing layersSAM VILLA

      Looking for a new way to cut soft face-framing layers? Sam Villa, Co-Founder of Sam Villa and Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken, uses diagonal sections and high elevation in this easy to replicate approach that creates predictable layers with a soft organic edge.

      Things to Keep in Mind

      1. Use a middle part and diagonal elevated sections so hair moves itself forward. The elevation creates softness and the angle creates the face frame.
      2. Use a dry cutting shear – the longer arms on the Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear allow for a deeper point cut.
      3. Create the guide on a diagonal and then fan and point cut. Place thumb in the center of the index finger and push to curl hair around thumb. Stabilize shear and open and close while moving through hair – this keeps it parallel to the hair so just weight is taken out.
      4. For the next section, go one finger width longer than the guideline to create a soft framing edge. Repeat for each section.
      5. The over direction point is to the center part; use the spine of the comb to match up.
      6. When cutting on the opposite side (left), the shear points down instead of up (if right handed), so take the section on the opposite side (left), then move back to the right side and do the cutting there.

      “Texture is all visual and feel, there’s no way to cross check it, so don’t go looking for hair to cut, be at peace with the fact that sometimes you will cut more than other times,” says Villa.

      Discover more digital education, other hot tips and techniques, as well as Sam Villa tools – brushes, combs, thermal tools and shears, on

      For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.

      How to cut face framing layers

      Need a haircut, but feeling completely and totally uninspired? We get it, and we’ve been there—that is, until we rediscovered the magical powers of layering. Let it be known that layers aren’t one slice or snip fits all. They come in all lengths (opens in new tab) , shapes (opens in new tab) , and silhouettes (opens in new tab) , and may be adjusted based on the texture of your strands, your face shape, and hair health. Another surprising benefit of layers? Most of the ones included here grow out well—and don’t require fussy touch-ups every few weeks.

      Sure, you’ve probably had some layers since you were a preteen, but we’re not talking about the long, blunt, blah layers of middle school. We’re here for the cool, choppy, face-framing layers that turn bobs and ponytails (opens in new tab) into works of art. And these grown-up kinds of layers grow out imperceptibly, so you won’t have to worry about rushing to the salon to maintain. And while we’re here, we’d like to address the annoying myth that layers are an out-there look that anyone might spot from a mile away.

      Not so! When done well, layers can make subtle changes to blunt styles (opens in new tab) that reveal major results. Add some razored ends to what would be a simple bob, and the blunt, living room-drapes effect fades away. Or take long Rapunzel strands and break them up with flattering graduations to turn the look into a modern fairytale. Layers are for everyone, and they’re pivotal to good style. I said what I said! So, to get you inspired, we’ve pulled the best of the best layered celebrity looks to screenshot and take to your hairstylist, pronto.

      A stylish upgrade to a standard hairstyle for long hair, adding in long layers takes away weight and bulk, giving the cut personality and movement.

      Blending in soft face-framing layers creates a flattering focal point that draws attention to the eyes and brings life to long hair. Adding heavy fringe or bangs is a nice way to balance a wide forehead, while side fringe complements a short forehead.

      An easy hairstyle for women to style and maintain, it works with all face shapes and hair textures.

      Create a smooth look with this hairstyle by massaging 2 to 3 drops of designline Silk Drops Serum into the ends your hair while it’s damp. For the back and sides of your head, run a paddle brush under small sections of hair as you focus the blow dryer’s concentrator attachment at the brush. Repeat the motion using a small or medium-size round brush with the front section around your face, creating a bend or soft curl to frame your face. Finish with a firm-hold hairspray like Big Sexy Hair Spray and Stay that is humidity resistant and adds shine.

      For a second look, here’s how to create loose spiral curls with this haircut: Spray Big Sexy Hair Root Pump into damp hair at the root and mid-shaft or wherever lift is desired. Begin blow-drying hair away from the scalp, using a vent brush and/or fingers. Once hair is dry, apply Total Results Mega Sleek Iron Smoother, then use a 1- or 1.5-inch curling iron or wand held vertically for a lasting beachy wave look. Spritz on Paul Mitchell Super Clean Light Hairspray for soft hold and body.