How to find newts and frogs

Newts and frogs can be great fun to observe in the wild. While keeping them as a pet isn’t the best idea, while observing them in the woods, or even in your own backyard, can be quite entertaining. To find frogs and newts, you’ll need to do some prep for your search, so that you’ll know when and where to look, and how to approach the animal once you’ve found it.


Part 1 of 2: Looking in the Right Spots at the Right Times Download Article

How to find newts and frogs

Do your research. While most frogs will be found near water, you’ll want to know what frogs are in your area if there are any dangerous frogs (poison dart frogs, etc.) in the area, and what their habitat is. Research can also help you find useful tips for finding specific frogs by helping you identify their calls or markings. Many states have websites about their local species.

How to find newts and frogs

Look for frogs or newts at night. Most species are nocturnal, so you may not find any in the day. Be careful of other dangerous species during that time. Snakes are often found in similar areas as frogs and newts, especially as many snakes, including the very venomous cottonmouth, will eat some amphibians as part of their diet. Never put your hands where you can’t see them.

  • It’s a good idea to use a flashlight. Using a red flashlight, or covering the flashlight with red plastic wrap or tissue paper will cause minimal disturbance for nocturnal animals.
  • You can also use night vision goggles. Though night birding is often the most common use for specialty night-vision goggles, they can be useful in seeing frogs and newts as well.

How to find newts and frogs

Look for frogs or newts near ponds or lakes. Most frogs and newts live near water. When looking for newts it’s also useful to look under rocks and logs. Any place where there are ponds or lakes, including forests and meadows may attract different species of frogs.

How to find newts and frogs

Look for frogs or newts in the spring and summer. Many species hibernate in the winter. The best time to find them is in the spring or summer. If you live in a colder climate with a late spring or an early fall, summer’s the best bet.

How to find newts and frogs

Go canoeing at night or in the evening. A canoe is quieter than a motor boat and will allow you to approach the frogs quietly. Ponds, lakes and river deltas are all great places to look for frogs and newts. You will often find frogs and newts near the bank or among plant life along the shore.

  • If you shine a light on frogs while canoeing, they will often sit completely still.

Part 2 of 2: Approaching the Frog or Newt Download Article

How to find newts and frogs

Be quiet. If you are loud, you will likely scare the frog away. To make your search as quiet as possible, wear quiet shoes and clothes, walk softly, and refrain from talking while approaching the frog or newt. If there is a group, make sure not too many people try to approach the frogs at once.

How to find newts and frogs

Approach slowly. Approaching the frog or newt slowly will help with the quiet, as well as keep the frog or newt from recognizing any visual cues that you’re approaching. Frogs are able to recognize movement easily. Newts have very good vision as well, and can even re-grow their eyes if they are damaged! Newts are quieter than frogs, and you may have to look under stones and logs to find them.

How to find newts and frogs

Be patient. If you happen to scare the frog or newt away in your first approach, stay quiet and still. The frog will likely return, and there may be other frogs around. If you still hear other frogs, waiting will likely be productive for your search. For the newt, you may have to come back later and look.

Wash your hands thoroughly after you handle a newt or frog. Some species of newt and frog are poisonous, and though it may be safe to touch them, if the toxins get into your bloodstream or in your mouth, it can be fatal. Even if they are not toxic, they often carry salmonella. It can make adults sick, and can sometimes be fatal to children under five, older people, and people with weakened immune systems.

  • You can use hand sanitizer or some other disinfectant. If you handle a newt, it is important to wash your hands thoroughly with water, so that you get all the toxins off.

Don’t harm the newt or frog. It’s important to handle the frog or newt carefully if you handle them, and then gently put them back on the ground. Several newts and frogs are protected under the Endangered Species Act. Be careful if you have a dog or cat around frogs or newts, as they might attempt to eat them, which can be harmful to both the pet and the frog or newt.

Environmental Organization Helping to Bring Awareness About Frog Decline Around The World

How to find newts and frogs

Encouraging newts to your garden pond will add life and color that can be seen for much of the year. You should never remove them from the wild but there are a few steps you can take to invite them to take up residence in your pond.

Newts not only add life to the pond, they also eat algae. So they provide a natural solution to a common problem. As they are most active during the warmer months of the year, when algae is rifer, they can be a real help. Of course other natural remedies such as Barley Straw will help too.

The best way to invite newts into your garden is to create the ideal habitat. A natural pond without fish is the best environment, as they will eat newt eggs and spawn.

How to find newts and frogs

Build a loose rockery around or near the pond. This will provide them with shelter to live and breed. The cool, damp, atmosphere is ideal for newts, and will encourage slugs and insects, a good food source. If you want to feed the newts, then you can add bloodworm, daphnia or brine shrimp to the water, a good retailer will have a wide range of pond foods.

Adding plants such as water mint or water forget-me-nots are small but have wide leaves which are perfect for newts to lay and hide their eggs in. Reed plants are also great to promote natural behaviors. The eggs have a jelly like texture, which newts wrap up in leaves to protect them.

Newts are most active from March/April, and you should see babies appear from June to August. From then on, you will notice that they start to disappear, as they mostly hibernate throughout the winter, until around February. During this time, try not to rearrange the rockery or do too much work around the area, as this will disturb the newts.

Children will no doubt be very interested in the new addition to your pond, and it’s a great way to promote a love of nature. However always supervise your children around these slippery creatures, and ensure that if they do pick a newt up, that they do so very gently and with wet hands. Don’t allow the newts to be taken away from the area, or held for more than a few minutes.

You may find that not only newts arrive, but that frogs and toads appear too. As they thrive in similar environments. They can live well together and create a beautifully natural area of wildlife in your garden.

How to find newts and frogs

Don’t worry if newts don’t start to arrive, despite the lovely home you have created. It may take time for them to appear and breed. If your local environment has changed, such as new roads, building sites etc., this may affect the migration of newts too. Leaving the pond and its inhabitants to its own devices will encourage the most natural behaviors and results.

Amphibians tend to head for freshwater for the reproduction cycle. A few may head to brackish water but there are no species that will tolerate sea water. Several hundred frog species need no water at all. An evolutionary adaptation has enabled them to be independent from water. Almost all of these frogs live in rainforests and their eggs are hatched directly into smaller versions of the adult. The tadpole stage happens whilst in the egg. Some species have adapted to semi arid conditions but many still need water to lay their eggs. Amphibian metamorphosis involves lots of changes from the infant to the adult. Four legs appear in order to go on land, gills are replaced by lungs, glands develop on the skin to avoid dehydration, the tail disappears in frogs and toads, the eyes adapt to have vision out of the water and they grow eyelids and an eardrum is developed to lock the middle ear.

The first major group of amphibians evolved from fishes to having legs. They were approx 5 metres long in length and found that the land was safer for them from the sea predators such as sharks. They did however encounter problems in that their skin was not water tight and the food they were used to eating was mainly water based. Amphibians evolved and adapted to their new land based lives and they moved up the food chain where they took the position we now see modern crocodiles. These amphibians ate mega-insects and fish. Amphibians hibernated through the winter which enabled them to be safe from the reptiles.

There are three types of amphibians found in the UK, these are frogs, toads and newts. You can tell the difference between frogs and toads in a few ways. A frog will feel moist when touched but a toad will feel dry. The skin of a frog is smooth whereas a toad is warty. Toads backs appear flatter than a fogs ridged back. A toad will walk whereas a frog will hop.

It is not just the amphibians in this country that are feeling the wrath of human intervention. Many of the amphibians worldwide are now in decline. Amphibian populations have been dramatically decreasing in substantial numbers for the last two decades. Factors such as destruction to their habitats, pollution, climate change and predator introduction all play a part in this. The hole in the ozone layer, which seems to have no direct effect on humans, could be damaging amphibians’ skin, eyes and eggs because of the UV rays. Discussions relating to the declines though are still ongoing.

Evolutionarily Distinct and Globally Endangered (EDGE) are commencing an awareness and fundraising initiative in the hope of gaining conservation for these creatures. ”The EDGE amphibians are amongst the most remarkable and unusual species on the planet and yet an alarming 85% of the top 100 are receiving little or no conservation attention and will become extinct if action is not taken now.” Helen Meredith, EDGE Amphibians coordinator, commented. “These animals may not be cute and cuddly, but hopefully their weird looks and bizarre behaviours will inspire people to support their conservation”.

Frogs are cute, incredibly unique animals that lend a more natural, genuine ambiance to your garden pond. With over 6,000 species worldwide, they are the most numerous and diverse group of amphibians. Even if you don’t find these little critters to be particularly appealing, they do perform some pretty important functions that could greatly benefit your backyard pond! A typical frog can eat over 100 insects and other pests just overnight, including mosquitos and ticks that can carry potentially deadly diseases. Considering frogs prefer to live in groups, this can really help cut down on any unwanted bugs you might have around your property and prevent them from becoming too abundant in the future. Frogs, like all amphibians, are also very sensitive to ecosystem disturbances, and because of this can give you advanced warning if your pond isn’t healthy before it affects your fish and plants too much. If you notice frogs are suddenly leaving the area, you may need to make some changes.

So, interested yet in welcoming some new frog residents to your pond? If so, below are a few simple, key ways to make them want to call your oasis home:-

1) Keep it Natural

As mentioned before, frogs are quite sensitive. Their skin is semi-permeable, meaning that they obtain all of their moisture and much of their oxygen by absorbing it through their skin rather than drinking or breathing as we do. Unfortunately, this means that they also soak up whatever else may be in the water and soil, such as fertilizers or any other chemicals. These compounds can cause a variety of issues, from deformities to death. If you have a garden pond, you’ll want to minimize the usage of these anyway to ensure that it remains healthy and naturally well-balanced.

As frogs live both on water and land, try to avoid using fertilizers or chemicals such as pesticides anywhere near the pond. You can maintain your pond’s pH and oxygen levels by using aquatic plants and water filters. There are also plenty of natural ways to take care of your yard, such as only planting native plants and grasses that are adapted to local conditions, creating a few small holes or “plugs” throughout your yard to allow for better air flow (frogs will also likely use these holes as burrows!), and not mowing your grass too often, which dries it out. Many people apply fertilizers and excess water to their yards because the grass appears unhealthy, but in many cases simply mowing less often will result in a more vibrant lawn, as grass is generally healthiest at around 3 inches tall.

2) Create a Safe Haven

Since frogs are fairly small, they have a lot of natural predators. To deter predators, you could set up a decoy heron or hawk, as these birds will usually stay away from areas if they think it’s already claimed by another individual. For smaller birds, you can draw them away from your pond by placing bird feeders and bird baths in strategic locations as far away from your pond as possible. Many predators, such as owls and raccoons, are active at night. You can discourage them from eating your fish and frogs by placing netting over the area at night that’s large enough to allow frogs to pass through without injuring themselves, but too small to allow much of anything else in.

Frogs also prefer to have lots of little hiding places that double as shelters from predators, the sun, and elements. Throughout your yard, place rocks, small hollow logs, or even clay flower pots turned upside down and propped up slightly for a more whimsical look. These refuges should be located in shady areas, as frogs will easily dry out in the sun. Around and in your pond, plant long grasses and broad-leafed plants that are more difficult for predators to see through – these will also allow frogs to more easily enter and exit your pond, as they can grip onto the plants, in addition to improving water quality. You can also place rocks, PVC piping and even fish shelters in your pond to allow for underwater hidey-holes for both fish and frogs!

3) Plants, Plants, & More Plants!

Pond plants provide hiding places, shade, and also improve water quality, all of which will encourage breeding and promote a stable population of frogs. Within the pond, water lilies are a wonderful option, as frogs can hide beneath them, lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves, or rest on top of them. The flowers will also bring in insects for them to feast on, and many of the insects will serve as pollinators for some of your other plants. It’s also important to allow a small amount of algae to grow in the water, as both fish and tadpoles will feed on this. Too much algae, however, and you can cause issues with water quality and fish health (if you have any), so finding a balance is key! If you’re battling an algae bloom and have frogs, always opt for non-chemical algae treatments, never harsh algaecides, as they’ll quickly kill frogs and other wildlife.

On the pond’s edge, hostas, sedges, ferns, and long grasses will not only supply habitat, shelter, and shade, but will also help soak up (to a degree) harmful things like fertilizer before it reaches the water. However, make sure than any plants you use are not toxic. For example, rhubarb, daffodils, and honeysuckle are poisonous to most frog species so you’ll want to avoid planting them anywhere near the pond if at all possible.

4) The Perfect Layout

To allow for easy entering and exiting, make sure that at least one side of your pond has a gradual, shallow edge of 45 degrees or less. You can also use logs, rocks, and plants that they can effortlessly jump onto and use as exit routes. In addition, your pond should have an area that is at least a couple of feet in depth to provide plenty of spawning habitat. The greater depth will also supply cooler water during hot periods, and prevent it from drying up if a drought occurs. Frogs avoid overly turbulent water, so try to stay away from incorporating waterfalls or too powerful of an aerator into your pond.

Along the edges of your pond, small pebbles, loose gravel, or a similar substrate will help filter water running off into your pond while also offering prime habitat for macroinvertebrates like caddisfly larvae, dragonfly larvae, and crayfish. Many of these are valuable food sources for frogs, and also sensitive to pollution – if you have these neat, tiny creatures in your pond, you can be sure it’s reasonably healthy! Plus, who doesn’t like watching colorful dragonflies zip around? By contrast, if you find undesirable aquatic invertebrate species like leeches or midges, their presence is a pretty good indicator that your pond could use a good cleaning and oxygen boost.

5) Species Research

This one may sound too simple, but one of the best ways to make sure you attract frogs is to figure out which species are native to your area. You can then quickly look them up and determine exactly what they like and how to incorporate those things into your pond and garden. Depending on the type of frogs you have, they may prefer slightly different environmental conditions or have varying requirements. The simplest way to determine the species is with a quick online search with their color, patten, approximate size, and your location.

You can also make use of various websites which can provide a good list of different animal species which may be native for your area, such as Map of Life or animal watch groups.


New member
  • Aug 8, 2009
  • #1
  • I’m trying real hard to buy a few newts but they’re very rare here in pet shops. Their home (the tank) is all ready but it will be a great disappointment if I’m not able to get them. I thought that I’ll keep a few locally available wild frogs in the tank, if I dont get the newts, but I’m not sure where to look for them. I mean the habitat. There are a few water bodies around my place ( a river and a few streams ) but I dont see any frogs commonly here.

    Just wanted to request you friends for some guidance on where to look for them and how to catch them. Can they be handled or are they harmful / toxic ?

    Kindly guide me Friends.
    Thanks and Regards


    New member
    • Aug 8, 2009
  • #2
  • I find the best technique for catching frogs is patience and a quick hand. Most often I catch them by watching where they swim to when the jump into the water. A large net, like a butter fly net can be used also, however this requires a keen eye and fast reaction time.

    Another method I have had success with is color. Many species oof frog are attracted to the color red. Simply laying out a piece of bright red cloth attracts some species into a good netting position.

    There is another method I personally have never tried, however my older relatives were adept at catching large frogs with a bit of red or yellow cloth on a string. This is basically fishing with out the hook. My grandfather in particular could catch amazing amounts of frogs with nothing more than some kite string, a long stick and a corner of his handkerchief. The frogs would atempt to eat the cloth bit as they moved it around the water’s edge on the string. They held on long enough to be grabbed by hand then.

    (I would be very interested in seeing pictures of native frogs and their habitats from India, it is not an area of the world I have been lucky enough to learn much about it’s natural areas!)

    Newts and frogs are not mutually exclusive but they do tend to have a bit of a boom-bust relationship.

    Newts eat tadpoles, so ponds with lots of newts tend to have fewer frogs. But then a decrease in frogs means fewer tadpoles and so less food available to newts, which can lead to fewer newts and so more frogs in following years – and so on.

    It may be that a pond is just more suitable for newts than frogs. This isn’t a bad thing: newt habitat is just as valuable as frog habitat and newts are equally interesting to watch.

    We have three species of newt in Sussex: the Smooth Newt, the Palmate Newt and the much larger Great Crested Newt.

    Posted in: Frogs, Toads and Snakes on 10 June 2015

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    New Jersey is home to 71 species of reptiles and amphibians. In an effort help residents and visitors of the state accurately identify these species, the Division of Fish and Wildlife has created a “Field to Reptiles and Amphibians of New Jersey” with a companion audio CD. The CD, “Calls of New Jersey Frogs and Toads”, was created to help with the identification of the 16 species of calling amphibians found in the state.

    The following list of New Jersey reptiles and amphibians have links to fact sheets in PDF format (65-110kb each). The fact sheets are excerpted from the Field Guide to Reptiles and Amphibians of NJ. The frogs and toads also have a link to each species’ calls which are shortened versions of those found on the vocalization CD. This online field guide is intended to provide instant access to pictures, maps, calls and descriptions for New Jersey’s reptiles and amphibians.

    NOTE: (E) indicates listing as a state endangered species, (T) indicates listing as a state threatened species. See the List of NJ Threatened and Endangered Wildlife for more detailed information on these species.

    Bog Turtle (E) Clemmys muhlenbergii
    Common Map Turtle Graptemys geographica
    Common Musk Turtle Sternotherus odoratus
    Common Snapping Turtle Chelydra serpentina
    Diamondback Terrapin Malaclemys t. terrapin
    Eastern Box Turtle Terrapene c. carolina
    Eastern Mud Turtle Kinosternon s. subrubrum
    Eastern Painted Turtle Chrysemys p. picta
    Eastern Spiny Softshell Apalone s. spinifera
    Redbelly Turtle Pseudemys rubriventris
    Red-eared Slider Trachemys scripta elegans
    Spotted Turtle Clemmys guttata
    Wood Turtle (T) Clemmys insculpta

    Five-lined Skink Eumeces fasciatus
    Ground Skink Scincella lateralis
    Northern Fence Lizard Sceloporus undulatus hyacinthinus

    Black Rat Snake Elaphe o. obsoleta
    Corn Snake (E) Elaphe g. guttata
    “Coastal Plain” Milk Snake L. t. triangulum X L. t. elapsoides
    Eastern Garter Snake Thamnophis s. sirtalis
    Eastern Hognose Snake Heterodon platyrhinos
    Eastern Kingsnake Lampropeltis g. getula
    Eastern Milk Snake Lampropeltis t. triangulum
    Eastern Ribbon Snake Thamnophis s. sauritus
    Eastern Smooth Earth Snake Virginia v. valeriae
    Eastern Worm Snake Carphophis a. amoenus
    Northern Black Racer Coluber c. constrictor
    DeKay’s Brown Snake (formerly No. Brown Snake) Storeria d. dekayi
    Northern Copperhead Agkistrodon contortrix mokasen
    Northern Pine Snake (T) Pituophis m. melanoleucus
    Northern Redbelly Snake Storeria o. occipitomaculata
    Northern Ringneck Snake Diadophis punctatus edwardsii
    Northern Scarlet Snake Cemophora coccinea copei
    Northern Water Snake Nerodia s. sipedon
    Queen Snake (E) Regina septemvittata
    Rough Green Snake Opheodrys aestivus
    Smooth Green Snake Opheodrys vernalis
    Southern Ringneck Snake Diadophis p. punctatus
    Timber Rattlesnake (E) Crotalus horridus

    Blue-spotted Salamander (E) Ambystoma laterale
    Eastern Mud Salamander (T) Pseudotriton m. montanus
    Eastern Tiger Salamander (E) Ambystoma t. tigrinum
    Four-toed Salamander Hemidactylium scutatum
    Jefferson Salamander Ambystoma jeffersonianum
    Longtail Salamander (T) Eurycea l. longicauda
    Marbled Salamander Ambystoma opacum
    Mountain Dusky Salamander Desmognathus ochrophaeus
    Northern Dusky Salamander Desmognathus f. fuscus
    Northern Red Salamander Pseudotriton r. ruber
    Northern Slimy Salamander Plethodon glutinosus
    Northern Spring Salamander Gyrinophilus p. porphyriticus
    Northern Two-lined Salamander Eurycea bislineata
    Redback Salamander Plethodon cinereus
    Red-spotted Newt Notophthalmus v. viridescens
    Spotted Salamander Ambystoma maculatum

    American Toad Bufo americanus call
    Bullfrog Rana catesbeiana call
    Carpenter Frog Rana virgatipes call
    Eastern Spadefoot (toad) Scaphiopus h. holbrookii call
    Fowler’s Toad Bufo woodhousii fowleri call
    Green Frog Rana clamitans melanota call
    New Jersey Chorus Frog Pseudacris triseriata kalmi call
    Northern Cricket Frog Acris c. crepitans call
    Northern Gray Treefrog Hyla versicolor call
    Northern Spring Peeper Pseudacris c. crucifer call
    Pickerel Frog Rana palustris call
    Pine Barrens Treefrog (T) Hyla andersonii call
    Southern Gray Treefrog (E) Hyla chrysoscelis call
    Southern Leopard Frog Rana utricularia call
    Upland Chorus Frog Pseudacris triseriata feriarum call
    Wood Frog Rana sylvatica call


    California Newt (Taricha torosa) and Rough-skinned Newt (T. granulosa)

    How to find newts and frogs
    (Photo by John Sulivan)

    Introduction: California newts and rough-skinned newts were once common in the pet trade and could be found for sale in most pet stores in North America. Laws have been put in place to help reduce the numbers that are taken from the wild each year to supply the pet trade so that wild populations are not depleted. Though not as available as they once were, both species can still be found for sale from dedicated newt breeders and occasionally from herp dealers online.

    Both the California newt and rough-skinned newt look similar. They both can grow to a length of over 8 inches (20 cm). Their ventral side is a orange to indicate that they are poisonous. Their dorsal side is dark chocolate brown, although the shade of brown can vary between individuals. Rough-skinned newts can be distinguished from California newts by their smaller eyes. California newts are native to the coastal ranges of California, while rough-skinned newts have a much larger range that extends up through the Pacific Northwest, as far as Alaska. In the pet trade, they are often called Oregon newts.

    Cage: California and rough-skinned newts are active animals and will use all of the room they are provided with. A standard 15 gallon aquarium that measures 24 inches long by 12 inches wide by 12 inches high (61 cm by 30 cm by 30 cm) is enough space for a pair of adult newts, although more room is better. A secure screen cover is very important because these newts are capable of escaping an uncovered aquarium easily.

    In the wild, both species go through terrestrial and aquatic stages, although the rough-skinned newt is generally more aquatic than the California newt. In captivity, both generally do well in a semi-aquatic setup with both a deep water area, as well as a land area. California newts should be provided with a larger land area than rough-skinned newts. The depth of the water can vary from shallow water that is around 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep, to deeper water that is more than 10 inches (25 cm) deep. This can be accomplished by filling the cage with a few inches of gravel and gradually sloping it to one end so that one side of the cage has a high end of gravel, and the other side has a thin layer that is less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep. The aquarium can then be filled with just enough water so that the high end of gravel is just above the water line. Larger river rocks or flat slate can be placed along the slope to help keep its form. It will look like a miniature model of the shore of a lake when finished. Another possible way to provide a land and water area in an aquarium is to use a large rock or piece of driftwood that gradually slopes up out of the water and forms a land area. Provide multiple hiding spots on the land area such as cork bark, moss, rocks, and driftwood. Live aquatic plants with sturdy leaves can be planted in the water for aquatic hide spots and perches.

    How to find newts and frogs How to find newts and frogs
    Two styles of semi-aquatic setups suitable for amphibians such as some newts

    A small submersible filter or canister filter can be used to circulate and filter the water in large aquariums. Deflect the output of the filter with a rock or piece of wood so that the current isn’t too strong. The water may need to be partially changed as often as once a week in small aquariums that are stocked heavily, while large aquariums with only a newt or two my only need monthly partial water changes. Generally, no more than half of the water should be removed from the tank to prevent removing too many beneficial bacteria that help maintain water quality. It’s better to do small frequent water changes than occasional large ones. Maintaining good water quality is essential. The larger volume of water in the tank, the less concentrated waste will be, and the easier it will be to control water quality. It may be helpful to purchase test kits or bring water samples to local fish stores so that the quality of the water can be monitored. If tap water is used, treat it with tap water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals from the water. Bottled spring water can often be used instead of water from the tap.

    Temperature: Rough-skinned and California newts do not tolerate warm temperatures well. Generally, the temperature in the tank during the day should range from 60°F (16°C) to 70°F (21°C), with a slight decrease in temperature at night. Temperature lower than these are tolerated well, and a drop to as low as 50°F (10°C) isn’t a problem for healthy animals. Warm temperatures, on the other hand, are usually harmful, and those above 80°F (27°C) should be avoided. It can be helpful to keep the cage in a cool basement or air conditioned room so that the temperature doesn’t rise too high.

    Food: A wide variety of foods should be offered. Their diet can consist of black worms, blood worms, chopped earth worms, small crickets, slugs, ghost shrimp, freeze dried krill, and occasionally brine shrimp. Frozen foods should be thawed in lukewarm water prior to being offered. Some newts may not accept all foods in the above list, and some experimentation may be needed to find a good, varied diet for a newt. Few newts learn to accept commercially available newt pellets, and in general these should be avoided. Feed adult newts two times a week. Over feeding is a common problem, so pay attention to how much is being fed and make sure to remove excess food that newts do not eat. Uneaten food will spoil the water quickly in a small aquarium.