How to install a toilet

How to install a toilet

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The rough-in for a toilet involves three different kinds of pipes. The water supply, usually formed from 1/2-inch copper pipe, terminates at a shut off valve under the tank. The waste line, which may be 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe, ties into the sewer via a vertical waste stack and connects to the toilet by means of a closet flange. In addition, the waste line must be vented by a 2-inch pipe that terminates outside. The configuration of these pipes depends on the location of the toilet relative to pre-existing plumbing and the construction of the house.

Waste and Vent Pipes

Install a 4-inch vertical PVC pipe that extends from a point at least one foot above the toilet bowl to the sewer. This is the soil stack and it should tie into the sewer with long sweep wye, or “Y”-shaped, fitting. Use a plastic wye if the sewer pipe is plastic, but if the sewer is cast iron, install a cast iron wye with a threaded inlet and screw on a PVC adapter. Glue the soil stack to the plastic wye or the adapter with PVC cement.

Place the drain for the toilet at a location in the bathroom that will provide enough clearance for the toilet when it is installed; 12 inches from the back wall is suitable for most toilets.

Cut a 3- or 4-inch diameter hole for the drain in the subfloor with a reciprocating saw. The size of the hole depends on what size waste pipe you plan to use. A 3-inch line provides better drainage, but if the distance to the soil stack is more than 6 feet, 4-inch pipe is required.

Fit a closet flange of the appropriate diameter into the hole in the bathroom and screw it to the subfloor with a screwdriver. The flange holds the toilet to the floor and forms the connection between the toilet and the waste line. Glue a closet elbow to the flange pipe under the subfloor with PVC cement. The elbow should be pointed in the direction of the soil stack.

Glue PVC pipe to the elbow and extend it to the soil stack, maintaining a downward slope toward the stack of 1/8 to 1/4 inch per foot. Cut into the stack and glue in a 4-inch sanitary tee with a 3- or 4-inch opening, depending on the size of the waste line. Glue the waste line to the tee.

Reduce the size of the opening of the top of the soil stack to 2 inches with a reducing coupling. Glue 2-inch PVC pipe to the reducer and extend it through the roof. This pipe vents the toilet and should terminate 1 foot above the roof line.

Water Supply Pipes

Choose an existing copper pipe that carries cold water near the toilet and shut off the water to that pipe. Cut into it with a pipe cutter and solder in a copper tee with a 1/2-inch outlet.

Assemble a supply line for the toilet with 1/2-inch copper pipe and fittings. It should run from the tee to the wall behind the toilet and extend about 2 inches beyond the wall under the tank. Solder all the joints after you have assembled the supply line, and affix the line to a stud in the wall behind the toilet with a pipe clamp.

Terminate the water supply line with a shut off valve. You can either solder the valve to the pipes, or install a valve with a compression fitting. Make sure the valve is closed before you turn the water back on.

Get the scoop on a special tool and the right techniques that will make this basic bathroom upgrade a snap.

How to install a toilet

Thanks to their solid construction and simple design, toilets often outlast other bathroom fixtures, but they don’t last forever. After a decade or so, heavy lime deposits can build up, resulting in clogging or slow flushing, and the seals between the tank and the bowl can harden, crack, and begin to leak. Even if a toilet is still in good working order, homeowners often upgrade to a model that blends better with a bathroom remodel or features the newest technology. And when that time comes, well…

Let’s be honest. Replacing a toilet is an unpleasant task, not because it’s technically difficult—it’s not—but because toilets are heavy and unwieldy, and no one really wants to get up close and personal. Daniel O’Brian, the technical expert for the online plumbing retailer, has the secret to making this job easier: a simple new tool called the Pick Up Stix. This handy tool is designed to assist professionals as well as savvy do-it-yourselfers in lifting and carrying a toilet. Armed with a Pick Up Stix and the following advice on best (and worst) practices, you can minimize the mess and hassle and have that new toilet in place in no time.

DO get rid of as much water as possible before attempting to remove the toilet.

After shutting off the water-supply valve to the tank, flush the toilet, holding the handle down to drain as much water as possible from the tank. Some water will remain in the bottom of the bowl; bail it out with a cup or sop it up with a large sponge. Be thorough: Any water that remains will usually end up on the floor when you remove the toilet.

DON’T forget to prepare a spot nearby to set the existing toilet once you remove it.

Despite your water-removing efforts, the toilet’s internal P-trap (located below the bowl) will contain water. Any little tilt or wobble of the toilet as you move it will cause that water to drain out onto the floor. To deal with this, plumbers will often place a large utility pan on a flat dolly. When they replace a toilet, they’ll set the old one in the pan and then roll the whole thing out of the house. If you don’t have a pan, it’s a good idea to put heavy cardboard down on a dolly and cover it with old towels to prevent a mess.

DO protect your back when lifting a heavy toilet.

After you’ve disconnected the water-supply line from the bottom of the tank and removed the decorative caps, nuts, and washers from the T-bolts that secure the toilet to the floor, it’s time to lift the old toilet. “Moving a toilet isn’t the end of the world; you get in there, grab it, and get the job done,” O’Brian says. “That being said, they are fragile. They are awkward to carry. And, odds are you will end up touching a part of the toilet you would rather not,” he continues. “Pick Up Stix offers a quick way to move a toilet without grabbing that inner rim.”

The Pick Up Stix Toilet Installation and Removal Tool (available from for $29.95) is a lightweight, spring-loaded bar with nonslip rubber end caps that provides a sturdy handle for lifting the toilet from its base. To secure it to the toilet, just fit one end of the bar under the rim of the toilet bowl and then compress the bar enough to slip the other end under the rim on the opposite side. You can position the Pick Up Stix from side to side of the bowl or from front to back, whichever works best for your grip. “The Pick Up Stix is basically a little pogo stick,” O’Brian explains. “A big spring keeps it extended normally, but when you push it down it compresses, letting you put it into the bowl.”

Once the Pick Up Stix is in place, you can grab the center of the bar and lift the toilet straight up and off the bolts. Use your free hand to stabilize the back of the tank as you lift, and then place the toilet on the prepared cardboard or in a utility pan. For more information, check out this video that shows how Pick Up Stix makes moving toilets a whole lot easier on your back—and more hygienic as well.

DON’T leave the tank lid on when you move the toilet.

The tank lid is not fastened to the top of the tank—tilt the commode to either side while carrying it, and the heavy porcelain lid is likely to slip off and fall. Not only do porcelain tank lids break easily, they can chip and dent flooring as well. While professional plumbers are wise to this, household DIYers often make the mistake of leaving the tank lid on and end up having to clean up a shattered lid or repair damaged flooring. Avoid these mishaps when replacing a toilet by simply setting the lid aside and carrying it out separately.

How to install a toilet

DO lift and position the new toilet bowl using the Pick Up Stix.

While this handy little spring-loaded bar makes removing the old toilet a snap, it’s even more useful for setting the new toilet in position. After a new wax ring is in place on the floor flange (you should have completely scraped away the old one with a putty knife), position the Pick Up Stix beneath the rim of the new toilet bowl, then lift and center the bowl over the flange. Carefully lower the bowl, keeping the holes aligned directly over the flange bolts. “You can carry it securely with just one hand, freeing up your other hand to guide the toilet right into place,” O’Brian says.

Keep the rim of the bowl parallel with the floor as you lower the toilet into place. As it meets the wax ring, you’ll feel a little resistance. Then you can lightly wiggle the toilet from side to side until its base rests solidly on the floor. Alternately, you can turn the new toilet bowl upside down (or on its side) and affix the wax ring to the underside of the drain before lifting and positioning the bowl over the flange in the floor. Either way, be sure to align the T-bolts in the flange with the holes in the base of the toilet and keep the toilet rim level as you position it over the bolts—these precautions will help prevent damage to the pliable ring.

DON’T over-tighten the nuts on the toilet bolts.

After the toilet base is in place, put the washers and nuts over the bolts and snug them down—just not too tight. In many cases, finger-tightening is all that’s needed. Many a DIYer has found out the hard way that tightening the nuts too enthusiastically can result in a chipped or broken toilet. This also holds true for the bolts that attach the new tank to the bowl (unless you purchased a one-piece model). Snug them gently, then complete installation and fill the tank with water. If you then notice any leaking between the tank and bowl, you can tighten the nuts just a bit more. That’s usually all that’s needed to stop any drips.

A toilet waste pipe is a necessary product and may often require changing as you mature in a particular house. The main task of toilet waste pipes is to carry out the flush water into the drain. If you want to get one installed for yourself, you must know it is a hidden part of the toilet system.

It usually attaches into the nearest wall or floor area from the commode rear. For replacing or installing a new one, you will need access to the part that meets the sewer drains. In order to make the toilet waste pipe function, you will also have some joining and adhesive work to do.

Step 1 – Cut out Space for the Flange

When you install toilet waste pipes, the transition of the pipeline beyond your visibility from the toilet area requires a hole. That hole is usually not made in many constructions, leaving it up to the homeowner to decide where the toilet installation should be. You will need to carve out a hole to fit the flange piece there.

Step 2 – Fix the Flange

How to install a toilet

Use ABS glue to fix the flange to the surface of the floor. When you place the flange on the floor or the wall, it will need to remain affixed without failure. You can use the galvanized screws to keep them strong. A drilling machine will help make the holes for the screws. Make sure screws are put on with great care to prevent the plastic flange from cracking. Use the drill only after the adhesive has dried.

Flange pieces are available in plastic and can crack with half-measure drilling. Adhesive work can be avoided as long as the flange remains sealed to the ground with an alternative at the juncture of its exterior circumference and the floor.

Step 3 – Make the Hidden Connections

The ABS elbow joint is a key feature for the water to pass towards the sewers. Connect it to the flange and make sure the connection fits well inside the head. Use the ABS glue to connect the ABS elbow joint to the ABS sewer pipe. The hidden connections are one step away from completion, and you can easily use the glue again to make the next connection strong.

Step 4 – Connect the Connecting Couple and the Sewer Pipe

How to install a toilet

Use ABS glue to connect the heads of these two pieces, and pressurize for 30 to 35 seconds. Be careful about shifting and holding them too tightly against each other. The pipes can easily slip with the adhesive at a gluey stage. This will prevent the dirty water from sprouting inside your house under normal conditions of weather and nature. The gluing at this stage is crucial for this reason as well.

You may have had to do a double-take when reading the title of this article, but yes, we’re here to talk about the possibility of installing a toilet anywhere in your house. Why is this necessary? Maybe you want to be different! Who says that your toilet can’t go in the closets where the coats should be? It’s your house, and it’s your right to know where you can and can’t place a toilet!

On a serious note, it is absolutely possible to install a toilet, even a bathroom as a matter of fact, anywhere in your house. In the past, many homeowners have had the idea of their dream bathroom crushed because the location was simply too far away from the main drain. This happens in locations like the basement, where a major plumbing overhaul would need to take place in order for it to work. At that point, it becomes too much money and too much of a hassle. Nowadays, homeowners have newer options that weren’t given to them in the past: macerating toilets and sewage ejector pumps.

What are a macerating toilet and sewage ejector pump?

When you flush a normal toilet, it sends the waste through a trap, into a waste line and onto the mainline where it travels to the sewer or septic tank. The drain line on a normal toilet is below the level of it, so gravity pulls the contents of the waste line into it.

Macerating toilets send the waste to a macerating unit located behind the toilet or in the wall. High-powered blades then liquefy the waste, sending it out of the unit through a normal pipe that is tied to the main drain line. Unfortunately, macerating toilets are more expensive than regular ones, but it’s far easier to connect a small-diameter pipe to an existing system rather than redoing the entire bathroom. It’s also much cheaper, too.

For those who believe they are out of luck because their toilet location is below the main drain, don’t worry, we have a solution for you too. Because waste doesn’t need to be liquefied for easier transport through the small-diameter pipe, you can install a sewage ejector pump. There’s no transport involved at all; it just needs to get into the main drain. While they are similar to other pumps, they can do something that others can’t: pass solids. The pump sits in a sealed sump pit basin, where everything is discharged. The float switch normally controls the entire operation, turning the pump on once the water in the basin reaches a certain level.

So, if you had always dreamed about installing that toilet in the basement or in the garage so you didn’t have to run all the way upstairs to do your business, you are finally in luck. Keep in mind that these bathrooms, if maintained and installed properly, can last for a long time.

Can you install a toilet under the stairs?

Just when you thought the garage or basement was an outlandish spot for a toilet, your mind is about to be blown. Not only can you install a toilet under the stairs, but it is becoming more common every single day and it can actually increase the value of your home.

These toilets are both convenient and accessible. Like mentioned before, trying to install a toilet the old-fashioned way is going to get you into a heap of trouble, so using a macerating toilet or sewage ejector system will save you from running into any problems. For example, if you use the macerating toilet Saniflo, you don’t need access to an outflow pipe or soil stack that conventional plumbing demands, according to their website. The unit can be attached to a pipe as small as one inch because the macerating unit churns the waste from the toilet into a liquid effluent that can be easily pumped through these tiny pipes.

Pros and cons of a macerating toilet

When you are in the market for a macerating toilet because your plumbing system does not have a downward drainage facility, it’s important to understand the benefits and downfalls before you spend your money. Don’t worry, the benefits of this project greatly outweigh the negatives. Unfortunately, nothing is ever perfect, but it doesn’t take away from how great this product can be.

  • The biggest benefit that you receive when you purchase a macerating toilet is that they can be installed anywhere in the house whether you have a traditional plumbing or drainage system or not.
  • These toilets are great alternatives for areas that were never intended to have a toilet. When you have kids, need that extra bathroom and have an empty space under the stairs, the attic, basement, etc. it’s a great option that can help a parent out immensely.
  • Macerating toilets are portable. Yes, you literally have your own port-a-potty (much cleaner, obviously) within the confines of your home. Say you decide to update your basement and realize the macerating toilet would be better suited upstairs, only four screws need to be removed and the toilet can be reinstalled.
  • For those that are elderly or have special needs and have trouble traveling up or down the stairs, these easy-to-install and use toilets provide a great option for families who need it.
  • Worried about the time it’s going to take to get this thing in the ground? Don’t. The installation time is nothing compared to conventional toilets. The best part is that the installation requires essentially no breaking and digging.
  • Unfortunately, these toilets can get noisy at times because of their separate pumps and macerating systems.

When you compare the advantages and disadvantages of installing these toilets, the decision is pretty easy. Why go to all of the trouble of having to do a major plumbing overhaul and waiting for a toilet and the lines to be put into place when you save time and money by adding a macerating toilet to your home. Not only are you making your life easier, but the rest of your family and wallet will be thanking you later.

Other quick things to consider

While the project itself is cost-effective, you have to remember that there are other factors involved besides the toilet. You’re going to need to figure out building materials for new walls so that your bathroom looks complete.

You’re more than likely not going to have the option of building a window inside the bathroom, so you need to consider the lighting requirements of your new space and the wiring that may be required. Finally, an exterior wall gives you the ability to install a vent.

A do it yourself in this instance would probably be a mistake because it’s a project that one, especially if they aren’t a professional, shouldn’t tackle alone. Remember, a bathroom like this can do really help improve the value of their home, which is why it’s essential that you only hire professionals with years of experience in bathroom renovations.

A professional contractor will give you advice and explain the best way to approach your project. Whether you want the toilet under the stairs, in the basement or in the garage, your contractor will walk you through the steps to make sure your dream becomes a reality. That’s why you reach out to Tandem Contracting, a group of experienced professionals who get the job done right. Give us a call at 973-864-3100 or fill out the online contact form so we can get started on your project.

How to install a toilet

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Before you install a no-water toilet in your garage, you will need to check with your local building jurisdiction to make certain it is allowable. Some jurisdictions will not allow a composting toilet in your garage or home if you have access to a septic system. It helps to know that a composting toilet could also lower the value of your home on resale, as many people do not like the idea of a toilet that composts human waste. For a garage installation, you’ll probably prefer a self-contained unit that requires an outside vent.

Composting Toilets

Composting toilets use little or no water, depending on the model. Toilet waste is treated within the unit for reuse as valuable compost. A composting toilet provides an enclosed environment to naturally process the waste using aerobic decomposition, the same method nature uses to decompose animal droppings. Some models include air baffles, composting heating units, or injected air, mixing tongs or the addition of macro-organisms and worms to aid the decomposition process.


Some composting toilets are self-contained units that are simply set and secured in the location needed. Pick an area in your garage with room enough for a partition around the toilet for privacy and access to a wall for venting, if your model uses a vent system. The unit must have enough room around it to lift the lid and service the unit. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for wall setbacks and access. Some composting toilets separate the fluids and solids into different areas to avoid smelly units and promote composting. Emptying the toilet requires enough access to remove the solid and liquid waste bins.

Vent System

The vent system aids the aerobic decomposition while it also diminishes the smells associated with a composting toilet. Most composting toilets use a clamshell, mushroom or solar vent for expelling vapors horizontally or vertically through the roof or wall. Some systems come with rubber hose adapters to connect the composting toilet to the outside vent flange. A drain, waste and vent pipe of ABS or PVC plastic with a 90-degree elbow through an exterior wall may be all that is required, depending upon the make and model of the composting toilet. Make certain to point the pipe down to prevent wind and water entering into the toilet. Add a screen to the vent to keep insects out of the toilet as well.


Small composting toilets will require that you secure them to the floor to prevent tipping over when in use. Attach the mounting hardware, such as L-brackets, to the base of the toilet. Set the base in place to mark the location of the mounting hardware on the floor. Make a pencil mark around the mounting hardware. Remove the mounting hardware from the toilet and set inside the marked location. Mark the drilling holes. Drill at least a 1/8-inch pilot hole in the garage floor first. Set the toilet back in place with the mounting hardware to check for hole alignment. Remove the toilet and continue drilling the holes for the bolts that will hold the toilet in place, following the instructions for your particular toilet model. You may need to use a cement nail gun to secure the bolts in place through cement.

Toilet Set-Up

Most composting toilets come with peat moss, coconut fiber or other organic material to aid in the composting process. Fill the base that accepts solids with the composting material. The organic material must be slightly moist, not soupy or wet for it to work right. After attaching the top part of the toilet to the base, depending upon the model, close the lid. Keep the lid closed when not in use to prevent insects. Use septic-safe toilet paper to make certain the toilet paper breaks down during the composting process.

Introduction: How to CORRECTLY Install a Toilet

How to install a toilet

How to install a toilet

How to install a toilet

In this video, I’ll be showing you how to correctly install a toilet. There are 3 easy steps to getting one installed. The first step is to remove the old one. As easy as it may sound, removing a toilet the wrong way could be quite aggravating, so I’ll show you how to do it the right way. The second step is to prepare the rough-in for the new toilet. There are a few simple steps to go thru before installing the new one. And finally, installing the new toilet and testing it out.


So first of all, I wanna go thru all the tools and materials you’ll be needing to complete the job.

The first tool you’ll be needing is an adjustable wrench. You’ll be using it for most of the fasteners on the toilet whether it’s for removing or reinstalling.

You’ll also be needing a plastic scraper, a small metal saw, and a sponge.

As for the materials, you’ll be needing a new wax seal. I prefer getting a wax seal with a plastic flange in it like this one. They are a little bit more expensive but are worth every extra penny.

You’ll also be needing some clear silicone. I prefer getting a “squeeze-type” tube seeing were going to be doing a joint on the perimeter of the toilet once it’s installed and it could sometimes be a bit cumbersome to have a caulking gun when doing this.

And lastly, it’s recommended to replace your toilet’s speedway every time you change your toilet, it’s a cheap insurance, so make sure you get the proper one beforehand.

And that’s all you’ll be needing to get the job done.


So the first thing to do is to shut off the water to the toilet and flush all the remaining water that’s in the reservoir. Then, grab your sponge and empty out all the water that’s in the bowl, it’ll facilitate transport and it won’t leak all over the place once you remove it.

Once that’s done, go ahead and disconnect the water supply. You might have a little bit of water remaining in the tank, so keep a rag handy to wipe the floor dry.

Next, unscrew the nuts that are holding down the toilet, there’s 1 on each side. You’ll wanna keep these as you’ll most likely be reusing them on the new toilet.

Your old toilet is now ready to come off. If for some reason it seems stuck and doesn’t wanna come off, it might be because some silicone was used during the installation to keep it from wobbling with time. But if that’s the case, grab a hacksaw blade, pass it between the floor and the toilet to try to cut thru the silicone, eventually, it’ll give up and you’ll be able to remove the toilet without a problem.


Once the toilet is removed, you should have something that looks like this. This is called a “toilet flange” and it’s where the toilet and drain pipe meet. You’ll also notice 2 long bolts on each side of the flange, these are the bolts that secure the toilet to the ground and the pipe to the toilet. The yellowish material you see on the flange is your wax seal. The wax seal is what keeps the waste from leaking out under the toilet, so let’s remove the old and replace it with a new one, but before, place an old rag in the pipe to make sure the sewer gases don’t come out into the house.

Now, use your plastic scraper to get all the residual wax off till it becomes clean like this. You wanna make sure your installation is perfect so take the time to remove everything just to make sure.

A lot of DIY’ers will place their new wax seal on the flange but I prefer placing it under the toilet as you’re 100% sure it’s aligned with the toilet’s waste outlet.

I also always like to replace my speedway at this point of the installation seeing it’s easily accessible. Get a good quality braided stainless steel hose as these are your system’s weakest link and you wouldn’t want them to burst.

With the seal and speedway installed, now’s a good time to apply a bit of silicone under the toilet. I do this to make sure my installations don’t wobble and it also feels more professional when sitting. So apply a small bead on the perimeter of the underside and on the flat spots.


Great! Now you’re ready to install your new toilet. Make sure you remove the rag from the pipe, lift your toilet up and place it over the flange just like this. The goal here is to align the bolts with the holes as best as you can and then lower the toilet into place.

You’ll feel a slight resistance once it’s in place, this is caused by the wax seal. So what you wanna do, is use your weight to squish the seal in its final position. You’ll feel when there’s no more give and that’s when your toilet is correctly sealed & seated.

Now, go ahead and place your plastic spacers, then you brass washers and lastly the nuts. Use your adjustable wrench to tighten these just enough so the toilet doesn’t wobble. If you over tighten these, the porcelain will crack, and you’ll need to get a new toilet. When tightening these, it’s important for them not to turn so here’s a cool tip. Use a pair of adjustable pliers or vise grips and pinch the bolt to keep it from turning when tightening.

Reconnect your supply line and slowly turn the water back on.

Wait till the tank is completely filled up and give it a flush. If you don’t see a leak it’s a good sign. Repeat this process at least 5 times to make sure you have a leak-free joint and you’re done, now all you need to do is cut your bolts and reinstall your caps.

This part is personal preference but I like to give the toilet a nice silicone joint on the bottom which I find makes for easier cleaning but you could leave yours uncaulked if that’s what you choose, but if you do, wait a day or so before using it to let the silicone harden.

And that’s how to correctly install a toilet!

Skill Level

Start to Finish


  • screwdriver
  • tube cutter
  • drill driver
  • strap wrench


  • chrome water pipes
  • wall anchors
  • toilet
  • wax ring
  • screws
  • pull chain tank
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Step 1

How to install a toilet

decide how high tank should be mounted on wall

Photo by: Jeffrey Rowe

Determine the Wall Tank Location

Locate and mark the position of the tank on the wall, and mark the mounting holes. The tank should be aligned directly above and behind the toilet, centered on the toilet’s floor drain opening.

Step 2

How to install a toilet

How to install a toilet

screw anchors and screws into wall

Photo By: Jeffrey Rowe

lift tank into place

Mount the Tank

If the tank’s mounting holes do not line up on wall framing studs, install wall anchors that can support the weight of the tank filled with water (Image 1).

Lift the tank into place, use screws to fasten it to the wall (Image 2).

Step 3

How to install a toilet

new wax ring installed in bottom of bowl

Add the Wax Seal Ring

Turn the toilet base upside down and place a new wax ring on the bottom, surrounding the bowl drain opening. The sticky wax will hold the ring in place.

Step 4

How to install a toilet

How to install a toilet


set toliet in place

Photo By: Jeffrey Rowe

Install the Toilet

Insert the bolts into the floor flange (Image 1) . Each bolt head fits into the wide end of its slot, then both bolts are positioned in the slots to match up with the holes in the toilet’s base.

Turn the toilet upright and carefully set it in place (Image 2). The wax ring must be positioned directly atop the floor drain opening, and the bolts should insert themselves through the base holes without binding as the unit is lowered.

Twist the toilet slightly to seat it against the floor. The base should sit flat on the floor without rocking.

Tighten the bolts, but do not overtighten them and risk cracking the porcelain base.

How to install a toilet

Are you thinking of upgrading your bathroom but have no idea how to install a TOTO toilet? If so, follow our step-by-step installation guide below.

How to install a toiletAdditionally, with TOTO toilets, you don’t have to worry about forgetting to close the lid, since the majority of TOTO models come with a self-closing seat system.

Before you decide which model of TOTO toilet to install in your bathroom, you may want to consider features like the flushing system, water consumption, and configuration alternatives.

TOTO toilet brand manufactures several models of toilets that fit almost any bathroom design. They produce both one and two-piece models and several environmentally-friendly low-flush models.

TOTO toilets are typically installed in traditional homes, high-end hotels, restaurants, airports, stadiums, and many other buildings.

What’s Required to Install a TOTO Toilet?

How to install a toilet

  • TOTO toilet
  • Wrench
  • Plumbing tape
  • Power drill and bit
  • Measuring tape
  • Plumber’s putty
  • Caulk
  • Wax ring
  • Screwdriver
  • Plumber s level

Steps for Installing a TOTO Toilet

How to install a toilet

First Step

Ensure no debris remains on the closet-flange (a round, ring-like material made from either plastic or metal surrounding the drain surface).

  • After clearing the debris, insert the mounting bolts to immediately and correctly secure the toilet.
  • Position the front side of each bolt inside the flange and ensure each bolt’s thread faces upward.

Second Step

Flip the TOTO toilet bowl upside down. Set the toilet on a soft surface to prevent damage.

  • Place the wax-ring onto the lowest part of the toilet bowl and turn the bowl upright.
  • Align the mounting bolts with the existing holes on the lowest part of the toilet bowl.
  • After correctly positioning the toilet, push it down to properly seal the space between the flange and wax-ring.
  • Place each nut onto each bolt thread and prepare to mount them on the bolts.
  • Ensure all nuts are uniformly tightened (as you would when changing a car tire).

How to install a toilet

Third Step

Rotate the toilet tank side to side to ensure all nuts and gaskets have been securely and correctly fitted, particularly the tank onto the dish gasket.

  • Next, install the toilet tank onto the dish gasket, then insert your bolts.
  • Position a rubber washer between the lowest part of your tank and the front side of the bolt.
  • After securing both bolts into the tank, install the tank onto the toilet bowl.
  • Ensure all bolts are correctly aligned with the holes on the toilet bowl.
  • Begin by hand-tightening each bolt onto the lowest part of the toilet bowl and use a wrench to securely tighten.

Fourth Step

Attach the water intake and outlet for your TOTO toilet (you may use any available system but ensure it fits your toilet model).

  • While connecting the water supply, ensure you position the nut threads at the bottom-most part of your tank where the ballcock is located. Carefully hand-tighten as using a wrench may damage or break the plastic ballcock.
  • Open your toilet’s water supply tap and fill the tank.

How to install a toilet

Fifth Step

Install your TOTO toilet tank lid.
After following each, if you don’t detect any leakage, set the tank cover on top of the tank. Now you’re ready to install the toilet seat.

  • Ensure the toilet seat securely fits your toilet bowl.
  • Fix the bolts onto the holes in the toilet bowl.
  • Hand-tighten each nut placed onto the lowest part of the seat and use a wrench or screwdriver if necessary to securely fasten.

Standard Precautions

  1. Avoid pushing or kicking the toilet to prevent damage.
  2. Avoid dropping any hard objects into the toilet as this may cause leakage.
  3. Avoid cleaning the toilet with strong detergents that may cause damage.
  4. Avoid using hot water on a cold toilet to prevent damage.

Also, avoid adding cold water to the toilet tank. This may cause condensation, especially in cold weather.
If cracking occurs, avoid using the toilet as this may result in serious injury. Instead, repair it or install a new one.