The Spruce / Kevin Norris
- Working Time: 1 hr
- Total Time: 1 hr
- Skill Level: Intermediate
- Estimated Cost: $12 to $25
Electric clothes dryers typically are sold without power cords attached, and as annoying as that may be, there’s a good reason for this omission. In 1996, the National Electrical Code (NEC) changed the requirements for electric dryer wiring and cord connections. The old cords had three-prong plugs that fit three-slot wall outlets. In three-prong cords, there were two hot wires, with the third wire serving as both the neutral and the ground connection. To make this work, the dryer was configured so that the chassis’s ground connection was jumpered to the neutral connection by means of a small metal strap in the connection box.
All this changed with the 1996 code revision, where new installations required that dryer outlets must be wired to accept four-prong cords, with separate neutral and ground wires. This also required a slightly different configuration in the dryer’s connection box, in which the neutral and ground terminals were no longer jumpered together. This configuration slightly improves the protection against shock, since the machine’s chassis now has its own grounding pathway.
The NEC (and most local building codes) still permit the use of three-prong dryer cords in houses that have the old style of dryer outlet. And since your dryer might be older or newer than your outlet, dryer manufacturers don’t bother giving you an appliance cord because it might not work for your situation. That’s why the cords are sold separately.
This project shows you how to install a new four-prong dryer cord for use with a four-slot outlet, which has been the standard for more than 20 years. Alternatively, if your house has an old three-slot dryer outlet, you can install a three-prong dryer cord on your new dryer to make it compatible with a three-slot dryer outlet.
- Clothes Dryer Repair
- Table of Contents
- CHAPTER 1
Brand and model identification Tools & Safety Tips & Tricks
- CHAPTER 2
Dryer Basics Troubleshooting Repairs common to all brands
- CHAPTER 3
Whirlpool and Kenmore 29 models
- CHAPTER 3a
Whirlpool and Kenmore 27 models
- CHAPTER 4
GE / Hotpoint
- CHAPTER 5
Maytag Atlantis models
- CHAPTER 5a
Maytag Performa models
- CHAPTER 6
Speed Queen Amana
- CHAPTER 7
Looking for a Whirlpool Clothes Dryer Repair Manual?
HAS YOUR DRYER QUIT? ARE YOUR WET CLOTHES PILING UP?
IS YOUR WHIRLPOOL DRYER NOT HEATING?
OR JUST NOT DRYING LIKE IT USED TO?
IS YOUR DRYER GETTING NOISIER.
Did you know that freeze-dried ice cream was developed by Whirlpool Corporation under contract to NASA for the Apollo missions?
Whirlpool Dryer Troubleshooting
Diagnosis and repair procedures are included for common symptoms, such as low heat or not heating, noisy operation or rumbling sounds, clothes taking too long to dry, electrical and timer problems, gas burners and electric heaters, drive train and belt replacement problems and other Whirlpool dryer problems.
Our Free Whirlpool Clothes Dryer Repair Manual was designed to assist the novice technician in the repair of home (domestic) dryers that have been operating successfully for an extended period of months or years and have only recently stopped operating properly, with no major change in installation parameters or location. Find which Whirlpool dryer parts in your machine need replacing and how to do it yourself.
I pick up broken dryers from time to time to fix. If the dryer isn’t heating up, one of the first things the previous owner will often tell me is, “The, dryer isn’t heating.
I think it is the heating element.” To a person that repairs dryers a lot, I find that to be a funny comment because most of the time the person I’m talking to is giving me a gas dryer and not an electric dryer. Only electric dryers have heating elements.
You may have found this article because you are trying to find the heating element on your dryer so yo can test it. Well, if you have a gas dryer that’s not heating, you can visit my home page to start your troubleshooting journey. But if you own an electric Whirlpool dryer and you are asking the question: Where is the heating element on a Whirlpool dryer?, carry on, because this is the right page just for you. ?
Whirlpool electric dryer heating elements are located in different locations on the machine depending on the model of dryer that you own. For a large amount of electric Whirlpool dryers have the heating element is located in the back of the dryer. To locate it, unplug your machine from the wall outlet. Remove the series of screws in the back to access the heating element. The picture on the left is actually a gas dryer, but looks almost exactly the same as the back of an electric Whirlpool dryer. Whether your dryer is gas or electric, the back panel is removed all the same.
The heating element on this style of Whirlpool dryer is located on the back right of the dryer. The other location that you can find a heating element on your Whirlpool dryer is in the front. All you have to do is remove the front kick panel, and you will find your heating element, but again, unplug your dryer before attempting any repairs!
The heating element on this Duet is on the right. The second picture on your right shows the heating element with the drum removed.
Even though this post is about the Whirlpool brand dryer, lets mention one more location that the heating element can be located on an electric dryer. This is a common area for Frigidaire and GE electric dryers and it is right behind the drum (the part that rotates your clothes). (picture coming soon)
Not that we’ve talked about where it is located, let me state that your heating element can sometimes be the cause of your electric dryer not heating, but isn’t the most common cause. Most of the time a thermal cut off has blown causing your dryer not to heat.
Here are a few other related articles/videos on my site that may help you fix your dryer:
If you are certain that you need to replace your heating element, you can enter your model number below to find the right heating element for you dryer. Repair Clinic offers a 365 day warranty on parts so if the part doesn’t work for you, you can send it back with-in a years time for a refund.
Has my website been helpful?
Free pdf Readers:
Did you Know?
You no longer need a Paypal account to make payments using your credit card!
A Gift for You
Dave’s Repair Service
1911 Heath Hill Rd
New Albany, PA 18833
Email: [email protected]
How to Replace Your Whirlpool,
Kenmore, Roper, or Kitchenaid
Electric Dryer’s Heating Element
Here’s a common job that many folks are afraid of, but it’s really quite simple. The hard part is ‘proving’ that the element is the problem, and that it’s not the electrical supply, thermal fuse, thermostat, etc. Most folks suspect the element immediately, but about 50% of the time, it’s another failed component and the element’s fine.
(For some help with that, and before buying an element you might not need, please see my article entitled ‘The No-Heat Dryer’).
Note: Always check airflow out the vent before firing up your dryer with its new element. A partially clogged vent can burn out an element – even a brand new one – fast! Just run the dryer on the ‘no-heat’ or ‘fluff’ setting, then go outside and check for a good strong flow of air from the vent hood. If there’s any doubt, Whirlpool makes a cool little airflow test tool for their dryers that will tell you for sure, from inside.
There are basically 3 styles of heating elements in use for these dryers.
1) Most common is the ‘long’ one, part number 4391960, accessed from the back of the dryer, and which looks like this:
To replace this one, power down and pull the dryer out and remove the back cover. You’ll see a long, vertical ‘can’ on the right side, with the element coil inside. To remove this can, simply pull the element wires (can be hard to remove; I use a long-nosed pliers), the limit thermostat wires just above them, and the thermal fuse wires if equipped (this is a little device mounted high on the side of the can, with two wires attached). One 5/16″ hex screw at the top and a little strap holds the can in place. Remove this screw (You can look through the small hole that lines up with it, originally to poke a long screwdriver through), tip the can rearward, and lift it off its two bottom hooks. Once the can’s out, one screw holds the element inside. Remove it, and the old element coil will slide out. Slide the new one in, reverse this process, and you’re done!
2) The ‘short’ one, number 279838, is also accessed from the back, but is easier to change:
(note: this element doesn’t ship with the thermal
cutout and safety tstat shown in the above photo)
The replacement procedure for this one’s very similar to the ‘long’ one, but even easier. With the dryer’s back cover off (The dryer’s power IS off, right?), leave the long ‘can’ in place and remove two screws, one on each side of the element, and the element ass’y slips off the bottom of the can. Move the high limit t’stat from the old one to the new, bolt the new element onto the can, reattach the wires, and you’re done!
3) And the ’27 inch’ element, number 3387747, which fits 27 inch wide cabinet models and is replaced from the front of the dryer:
Of the three, this one’s the easiest to replace, because you don’t even have to move the dryer! After powering the dryer down, the bottom panel is removed by releasing its top clips with a putty knife, and set aside. Two wires are removed from the element, and the screw removed that holds the element in its ‘can’ (see picture below). The old coil slides out, and the new one slides in, screw reinstalled, wires pushed back onto the terminals, and you’re done! (This one can really stick in its ‘can’. Wiggling it from side to side as you pull helps ‘persuade’ it to slide out of there)
I currently have a very inexpensive ‘basic service manual’ available for immediate download that covers this and most every other repair on the 27 inch machines.
Two Important Tips:
1) As stated above, right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on ‘air fluff’ / ‘no heat’, and go outside to verify there’s plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent’s clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. (While you’re out there, if there’s a screen of ANY size over the vent, remove it – it WILL clog! See my Dryer vent screens article)
2) If there’s plenty of airflow, run the dryer empty on high heat for 10 minutes or so before adding laundry. This allows any oil residue to burn off the new element and prevents any ‘smoky’ odor from getting into your laundry.
I hope this has been of help to you in replacing your dryer element. Wasn’t that easy?! Many common appliance repairs like this really aren’t that tough.
If you should encounter any problems, or have any questions about any of this, please don’t hesitate to contact me.
Was this article helpful?
Please click the “donate” button on the left side of
this page to help me keep this information free!
Many Thanks! – Dave
“Nothing astonishes men so much as common sense and plain dealing” – Ralph Waldo Emerson
All Content on This Website is
© Dave’s Repair Service
New Albany, PA
All Rights Reserved
Whirlpool Duet Dryer F23 Error Repair – Instructions to replace the exhaust thermistor
To repair the F23 error on Whirlpool Duet dryer models you will first want to check the wiring at the thermistor for any loose connections or damaged wiring. If the wiring is good then you will most likely need to buy and replace the exhaust thermistor. Before replacing the thermistor reset the main electronic control board by unplugging the dryer for a minute and plugging it back it. If after 60 seconds the F23 error flashes in the display you will want to go ahead with the repair.
The thermistor is on the blower wheel housing close to the thermal fuse so you will need to remove the lower access panel on the front bottom of the dryer. Once you have the access panel off you then need to remove the lint filter duct housing. Now you have access to the exhaust thermistor, look on the blower wheel housing at the top, you will see two components mounted there. The left one is the thermal fuse and the one on the right is the thermistor. Unplug the wires from the thermistor and remove the screws mounting it to the housing and pull it out. Now install the new thermistor and reassemble the dryer.
If you would rather watch the repair on video the one on the right will walk you through the repair process. The model dryer being repaired in the video may not be your exact dryer but if it’s a Duet Style Dryer then the instructions will also apply to your dryer as well.
The replacement thermistor is linked below:
Tumble Dryer Not Turning! How to Replace Capacitor on Whirlpool, Bauknecht, Laden, Maytag
If you have an error code coming up on your 6 th sense Whirlpool, Bauknecht or Laden Tumble Dryer there is a fault with the appliance, you will need to find out what the problem is. In this tutorial i will show you how to test the motor and show you how a quick way to see if the capacitor is not working.
6th sense Tumble Dryer Whirlpool, Bauknecht, Laden & Maytag.
Take the 6th sense tumble dryer lid of and check that the belt is firmly on the drum (if not see our other video on this)
The first think you will need to do on any of these tests is make sure the error code is cleared first.
Now turn the tumble dryer on to a cold air cycle and press start. You will hear a low humming noise with no drum action and the appliance might show an error fault after a minute or so. (On condenser tumble dryers you might also hear the pump unit running this is normal) the humming noise that you hear is the motor trying to start but as the capacitor is not working it cannot give the motor the initial shunt it needs to start turning.
Now to test manually that the motor capacitor is not working, run this test again but this time when you first here the humming noise try pushing the drum in a clockwise rotation, if the drum starts turning correctly then this is a good sign that it has failed. You will now need to strip the appliance down and check the capacitor; you will need a multi-meter that is capable to test capacitors.
Tumble Dryer capacitor can be dangerous. It can hold an electrical charge indefinitely even when not connected to a power source. Never touch the terminals of a capacitor until you have discharged it. Never assume a capacitor has already been discharged (Even the New Ones!). Because of the capacitors ability to store energy, it is dangerous even when disconnected from a power source. In order to handle it safely, it must first be discharged.
- How to Replace a Pump in a Whirlpool Front Loader
- How to Replace the Rear Bearing on a Whirlpool Duet Washer
- How to Fix a Samsung Dryer: the Drum Won’t Spin
- How to Fix a Frigidaire Gallery Top Load Washer With a Clogged Hose
- How to Change the Drive Belt on an LG Dryer DLG3788W
If you notice an intermittent thumping noise coming from your Whirlpool dryer, the drum glide bearing may need replacement. In addition, if brown marks appear on your clothes after drying, the spots may look as though they are caused by oil, but this is not the case. Once the felt drum bearing becomes worn and flattened, the resulting gap allows items to become trapped between the front of the drum and the worn bearing while spinning and tumbling during the drying process. However, if this happens on your machine, replacing the glide bearing is a fairly simple process.
Unplug the Whirlpool dryer’s power cord to eliminate the chance of receiving and electrical shock during repairs. Slide the machine a few feet away from the wall to facilitate disassembly.
Open the lint screen flap on the right rear of the dryer and pull out the lint screen. Remove the two screws securing the front of the lint screen recess to the dryer frame, using a Phillips screwdriver.
Insert a putty knife into the seam between the front panel and the top 2 inches inward from the corner. Twist the blade of the putty knife to lever the top off the retaining clips on each side. Rotate the top upward out of the way.
Disconnect the door switch wire in the front-left, inside corner by levering the plug out of its socket, using a small flathead screwdriver. Remove the two screws securing the top of the front panel to the side panels, using a 3/8 inch nut driver.
Move to the front of the dryer and lift the front panel upward and outward. Lay the panel face downward on a towel.
Remove the old glide bearing and seal from the rim around the door opening by lifting one edge of the white felt section and pulling the hooped assembly off the rim. Grip the sides of the two old alignment tags protruding through the sides of the outer rim, using channel pliers. Squeeze the plier handles to flatten the tabs and push the tags through their slots.
Insert the new alignment tags provided in the bearing kit into their slots from the inside of the rim. Press the tags inward to snap them into place. Position the charcoal gray felt bearing section onto the lower part of the rim and align the bearing by pushing the locating holes over the alignment tags.
Loop the rest of the white felt seal section evenly over the rim and smooth it down. The white felt section is twice as wide as the thicker charcoal gray felt bearing. Correct this by folding the upper edge of the white felt section back over itself so that the folded edge is level with the top of the rim around the door opening.
Install the front panel by lining up the inside edge of the drum with the outer edge of the felt bearing and seal. Align the slots on the front panel with the retaining clips. Press the panel inward and push it downward until the panel retaining clips lock into place.
Secure the top corners of the front panel by replacing the two screws removed earlier. Tighten them securely. Reconnect the door switch wires by inserting the plug into its socket and pushing both sides together.
Rotate the top downward and press on both corners until the spring clips snap into place. Replace the two screws securing the lint screen opening to the machine base and insert the lint screen.
Push the Whirlpool dryer against the wall and plug the power cord into the wall socket. Turn the dryer on to ensure that it runs smoothly.
A clothes dryer with no heat is a problem. What causes a dryer not heating? A part in the electric dryer may be faulty and needs to be replaced. Faulty parts in an electric dryer will cause the dryer to stop heating. If the dryer does not heat the heating element, the dryer stops drying the clothing. Here are simple steps to fix an electric dryer with NO HEAT. The troubleshooting methods on this page will work with all dryers including GE, Kenmore, Maytag, Samsung, and Whirlpool electric dryers.
IMPORTANT: Before taking the dryer apart, clean out the air venting system on the back of the dryer. A blocked or clogged air vent line will cause a dryer to stop heating. Use a canister vacuum or lint cleaning tool to remove all lint from the back of dryer, the lint screen, all lint in the vent line, and in the wall. Check outside where hot air is vented and be sure it is clean and free from blockage. If a large amount of lint was found, this may have been your issue. Test run the dryer to see if you had a lint clog issue. If the dryer works properly, you had a lint clogging issue and it is now fixed, if still no heat, see below…
HOW TO FIX A DRYER NOT HEATING
Below we will explain how to fix an electric dryer the easiest way. It is a simple process of finding out which part in the dryer is causing the problem. Use a cheap multimeter to troubleshoot and find which part is causing the dryer to not heat. Once you know the faulty part, buy an inexpensive dryer replacement part online and install it yourself. Save hundreds of dollars and do it yourself. All the information you need is below with videos included.
TOOLS YOU NEED TO FIX AN ELECTRIC DRYER WITH NO HEAT
1 – Screwdriver (to remove panel/fuses/element)
2 – Nut driver (to remove panel/fuses/element)
3 – Multimeter (to test the dryer parts)
4 – Gloves (to protect hands from cuts)
BEFORE YOU BEGIN TESTING THE DRYER PARTS
1 – Unplug dryer from wall or flip wall breaker to remove power to dryer.
2 – Remove the rear panel/front panel on dryer.
HINT: Depending on the model number of your dryer, you will need to either take the front panel off or the back panel off to access the parts for testing/troubleshooting.
OLDER STYLE DRYERS – Remove back panel to access parts.
NEWER STYLE DRYERS – Remove front panel to access parts.
3 – Locate the components listed below.
4 – Use the dryer parts location chart to assist you like the one below.
Dryer Parts Location Chart
FIX YOUR DRYER – USE THIS CHART TO IDENTIFY DRYER PARTS
TEST THESE PARTS IN AN ELECTRIC DRYER TO FIX DRYER NOT HEATING
1 – THERMAL FUSE
This safety fuse can blow and therefore no heat in dryer.
TEST THERMAL FUSE WITH METER FOR CONTINUITY – IF NO CONTINUITY REPLACE THERMAL FUSE
2 – THERMAL CUT OFF
Cut off fuse can blow and therefore no heat in dryer.
TEST CUT OFF FUSE WITH METER FOR CONTINUITY – IF NO CONTINUITY REPLACE THERMAL CUT OFF
3 – HIGH-LIMIT THERMOSTAT
Temperature monitoring thermostat can blow and therefore no heat in dryer.
TEST HIGH-LIMIT THERMOSTAT WITH METER FOR CONTINUITY – IF NO CONTINUITY REPLACE HIGH-LIMIT THERMOSTAT
4 – CYCLING THERMOSTAT
Temperature thermostat can blow and therefore no heat in dryer.
TEST HIGH-LIMIT THERMOSTAT WITH METER FOR CONTINUITY – IF NO CONTINUITY REPLACE CYCLING THERMOSTAT
5 – HEATING ELEMENT
Heating component creates the heat in your dryer – if faulty, the dryer will not heat up.
TEST ELEMENT WITH METER FOR CONTINUITY – IF NO CONTINUITY REPLACE HEATING ELEMENT
HOW TO CORRECTLY TEST DRYER PARTS
- When testing parts with a meter, remove them from the wiring first! Isolate the part to test it properly.
- When testing for continuity, a thermostat, fuse, or element should read 0 OHMS of resistance when testing continuity.
- If you have an audible meter, it will produce a sound. This means the part is working properly.
- If the part is faulty or blown, the meter will not change, which means the part is faulty and needs to be removed and replaced.
If the electric dryer does not heat after testing and confirming all parts above are checked to be good, you will need to troubleshoot the other parts in the electric dryer.
OTHER CLOTHES DRYER PARTS THAT MAY BE FAULTY
- Main Control Board
- Timer Assembly
- Faulty Wiring
Most common Parts To Fix Your Electric Dryer
WHEN SEARCHING FOR DRYER PARTS
- When searching for parts for an electric dryer you will need the model number of your dryer.
- Find your dryer model number on a plate attached to the dryer or in the dryer owner’s manual.
- Certain dryer parts can look the same, be sure to always buy parts that match your specific model number dryer.
CHEAP MULTIMETER TO TEST DRYER PARTS
To repair the dryer yourself, you will need a good but affordable digital multimeter. The one below was chosen by us. A meter like the one below will make it easy for you to test all the parts in your dryer and make it easy to repair. Click on the meter to see details. It is the meter we use when performing appliance service calls and other home maintenance. If you do not know how to use a meter, see the videos further down to understand how easy it is to use a meter and repair things in your home.
Digital Multimeter To Test Electric Dryer Parts
Supco DM10T Economy Digital Multimeter with Temperature Reading
Affordable digital multimeter to test the components in your electric dryer
HINT – These Videos Explain HOW TO USE A METER TO TEST ELECTRIC DRYER FUSES/THERMOSTATS/ELEMENTS
Electric Dryer Thermal Fuse Testing Repair
Electric Dryer High-Limit Thermostat Testing Repair
Electric Dryer Heating Element Testing Repair
Is Your Dryer Showing An Error Code? Clothes Dryer Error Codes – Fault Codes For Dryers
When troubleshooting the dryer not heating up issue, if you cannot get the electric dryer to heat and dry your clothing properly, leave a comment below with your dryer problem and the dryer model number and we can troubleshoot the issue.