Hot tubs and spas are a popular stand-alone addition to a home or as part of a swimming pool upgrade . But maintaining clean water in a hot tub isn’t entirely the same as in a pool.
You have two main ways of killing bacteria and maintaining ph levels in your hot tub water. You can use chlorine or bromine tablets. But which one is best for keeping your spa water clean and healthy? As we’ll see below, bromine has many advantages over chlorine for maintaining water balance. But you may not get all of those advantages unless you know how to use bromine in a hot tub.
Advantages of Bromine Over Chlorine
Bromine is one basic advantage over chlorine in your spa or hot tub. It is more stable than chlorine, so you can avoid testing the water as often.
Bromine remains more stable in the higher temperatures of summer
It has increased stability in a wider range of ph levels
Bromine doesn’t have that ‘chlorine’ odor
Here’s How to Start Using Bromine in Your Hot Tub
There are a few basics of using bromine in your hot tub that you should know before you begin. First, a certain level of bromides (bromides convert into bromine when you add an oxidizer, like those found in your spa shock, liquid chlorine or ozone) must be present at all times. It can take several weeks to build up the levels of bromide so that bromine can be produced. The best way to start building those levels in fresh water, like when you drain and refill the hot tub, is to add sodium bromide.
Once you have a built up the levels of bromide, you convert the bromide into bromines by shocking the water with your preferred oxidizer.
Here are the steps to follow:
Add sodium bromide to fresh water every time you refill the hot tub.
Use spa shock after you have built up the levels of bromides in the water. It should also be used once a week following the initial shock.
Add bromine tablets to a floating dispenser to maintain the bromide and bromine levels.
If you liked this post, check out our recent article on winter maintenance tips for your swimming pool safety cover .
Responsibility is often a source of joy. The daily care you provide to your family and home adds structure to your life, joy, and a sense of well-being. Those same feelings can even come from the care of items that add value to your life. Think of cellists caring for their instruments, or of author Robert M. Pirsig’s Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. One of the many benefits of owning a hot tub is the opportunity to care for it, even in simple ways, such as maintaining the purity of your spa water on a routine basis.
Spa water can be purified using a chlorine, bromine, salt water, or ozone system, each of which has unique attributes. While chlorine is effective and costs little, it can be harsh on skin and sensitive areas of the body, including your eyes, nose, and throat, if you don’t balance your water correctly. The @ease ® In-line System with SmartChlor ® Technology, which is chlorine based, uses up to 75% less chlorine*, greatly reduces hot tub water maintenance, and comes standard on all Caldera ® spas. The SPA FROG ® In-line bromine system is a great alternative to chlorine for those with sensitivity issues.
A salt water system will cost more up front, but require less time for the hot tub owner in maintenance. Finally, an ozone purification system injects millions of ozone-saturated bubbles into spa water to eliminate contaminants and requires less upkeep than a chlorine or bromine system. This type of system is typically a standard feature of luxury spas, and even many premium-level spas.
Whether you already own or are looking to purchase a spa with a bromine system, we’ve compiled everything you need to know to make caring for your spa water simple.
*Compared to the minimum ANSI recommended chlorine or bromine level of 2.0 ppm for a hot tub.
What Is Bromine and How Is It Delivered to Spa Water?
Bromine is just as effective as chlorine at eliminating harmful, illness-causing germs in spa water when used in the correct amounts. However, it can be less irritating to the body than chlorine. Bromine also has the addedadvantage of increased stability in higher temperatures and wider pH ranges than chlorine. As a result, as conditions in your hot tub fluctuate, bromine will last longer as an effective sanitizer.
Many spas, including Caldera spas with the bromine and mineral-based FROG inline water system, treat water continuously by dispersing measured amounts of bromine from a replaceable cartridge. These spas allow you to dial-in bromine delivery by simply adjusting a dial.
Without an integrated bromine delivery system, you’ll have to rely on a more old-fashioned—but no less effective—method of adjusting the bromine level of your water: dispersing it manually.
Available from your local spa dealer or online, bromine can be added to your water via the convenient cartridge-based FROG delivery system or a floating feeder. Follow the bromine package instructions, which should detail the concentration level of the bromine and include a table showing how much to add to achieve the desired effect in various levels of water. If you have any concerns, ask your dealer to help you determine the right amount of bromine for your specific spa.
Testing Bromine Levels
The level of bromine in your spa water will vary, depending on how often you use your spa and the time it sits uncovered, exposed to sunlight and dew. The recommended amount of bromine to use in spa water is 1 to 3 parts per million (ppm).
To determine the current level of bromine in your hot tub water, use a bromine test kit available from your local spa dealer. Follow the instructions on the package and be sure to ask your dealer any questions you have about the water purification process. Once you know how much bromine is currently in your spa water, you’ll know exactly how much to add, or to what extent you might need to dilute it. By testing your water once a week, you’ll be able to properly adjust to maintain purity.
Adjusting Bromine Levels in Your Hot Tub
The best way to adjust your spa’s bromine level is gradually: When low, dial up delivery a little; when high, wait longer than usual before adding more bromine. If accidental over spills occur when administering bromine, or if you miss a week of testing, you might have to make a major adjustment.
Raising the bromine level from a low point is simple— just add the appropriate amount. Reducing the level, however, is a little more difficult. The best way to reduce bromine concentration is to allow the bromine to outgas, or evaporate, naturally over time. If, however, you want to lower the level more quickly, you can dilute it by draining some water from the spa or removing a few gallons using a bucket, and then replacing it with fresh water. Run the hot tub, and wait a while to let your water mix and settle (the exact wait time will depend on water volume, amount of bromine in the spa, and the power/capacity of your pump). Then, test the water again. If testing shows the bromine level is still too high, repeat the process.
You can also lower the bromine level by adding a neutralizing chemical, such as sodium thiosulfate, to the water. Neutralizers are available online, but it’s best to purchase from a local dealer, who you can consult before adding extra chemicals to your spa. It’s preferable to avoid adding neutralizers, because extra chemicals will complicate the balancing process and may alter other characteristics of your spa water, such as pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness.
Very little maintenance is required to keep your spa water crisp and clean with bromine. Make it a part of your weekly ritual, like watering the garden or filling the bird feeder, and your work will reward you every day with a warm, relaxing soak in your own home spa.
At Caldera Spas, we love to help you enjoy blissful spa experiences. To learn more about our spas and water care products, download our brochure. To see our spas in person, or learn more about the spa you own, visit your local dealer. If you’re interested in bringing home your own hot tub, request a quote.
The use of bromine provides an effective alternative to chlorine when disinfecting your hot tub water. Like chlorine, bromine does two things. It disinfects the water and kills any bacteria that are in the water, as well as it oxidizes out any organics that can be in the water. In Arctic Pure, we offer two types of bromine, bromine tablets and granular bromine Peak Boost.
The bromine tablets, just like chlorine tablets, offer a slow release of bromine into the water. The tablets are slow-dissolving, so they take up to a week sometimes for them to dissolve. The tablets are placed in a floating dispenser such as this, or in the skimmer basket, or if the hot tub does have a tablet feeder, they can go in there. It’s important to note that you do not want to mix chlorine and bromine tablets in the same feeder, basket, or dispenser. I would recommend that if you were to switch from tablet to tablet that you buy a new dispenser. It can be dangerous.
So, like chlorine, you want to keep the level of three to five parts per million bromine in the water. That’s gonna keep the water safe and clean. Bromine can be tested by a tester. You can test it at home with the testers. Give it a test. See where the level is at and adjust your level accordingly.
The granular provides an instant bromine residual in the water. Peak Boost is completely soluble, fast-dissolving, and as well it’s pH neutral, so it won’t affect your water balance. The pH will stay the same and the alkalinity will stay the same. So it’s a great product.
You can use both of these products on their own, or you can use them in conjunction. And I would recommend that. I would recommend using the tablets for that slow release and constant residual into the water. And use the peak boost as a shock when needed after heavy bather use, or if you test it and you see that the level is low, add Peak Boost to bring it up right away. With the tablets, just like chlorine tablets, they do have a low pH, so over time they will drive down the pH and drive down the alkalinity levels in the water. So it’s just something you have to watch. It doesn’t happen instantly. Because these are slow-dissolving, it happens slowly over time.
So bromine is a great alternative for disinfecting your water to chlorine. It’ll keep your water clean, clear, and safe.
Once your spa is filled, the next step in the hot tub start up process is adding chemicals to your spa for the first time. In this episode of Master Spas TV, Shane will provide step-by-step, hot tub start up chemical instructions including how to test hot tub water, what chemicals to add to the hot tub, and the importance of adding chemicals in a specific order.
Before adding any chemicals to your hot tub, it is crucial that you carefully review the labels of the spa chemicals you will be using for dosing information. The amount of chemicals needed is based on the gallons of water your hot tub holds, you can find the gallon capacity in your owners manual.
If you haven’t filled your hot tub yet, watch our “How to Fill a Hot Tub” video for easy to follow instructions and helpful hints for filling your spa that will make balancing your water chemistry easier.
Steps to Hot Tub Water Chemistry
First, we need to fill the tub if you need help you can check out our video where we walk through the initial fill-up process. Along with our video, you can find information about the initial fill-up in your owners manual and at www.masterspas.com/resources.
Once we’ve filled the hot tub, now it’s time to check the chemical levels. Now it’s important to note the quantities to apply can vary based on the size of your hot tub and the chemical concentration of the brand or product being used. You should know how many gallons of water your hot tub holds. This can be found on the model spec page in your owner’s manual and make sure you familiarize yourself with the recommended amount for the chemicals you plan to use, these should be directly on the bottle.
The testing strips we’re using test all necessary levels at once, but depending on your test strips you may need individual testers for pH alkalinity calcium hardness and chlorine. It will save time if you can have the following chemicals on hand:
- a pH increaser
- a pH decreaser
- chlorine granules
Keep in mind it matters in which order we balance our chemicals. First we need to adjust our pH level and total alkalinity. When we’re retrieving a test strip make sure that we’re not contaminating the remaining strips in the container and once we have the strip in hand simply follow the instructions on the packaging for dipping and discerning the results. Our goal is to find our pH between 7.4 and 7.6 and our alkalinity between 100-120 parts per million. Now my initial test indicated and my pH was a little low so referencing the information on the pH increaser, I know I need to add one capful of pH up to compensate for this low level. It’s important that we balance our pH first before moving on to the next step adding a sanitizer if the pH is not balanced it can render the sanitizer ineffective remember when adding chemicals always spread them across the surface of the water with all the therapy pumps turned on.
And now we wait 30 to 60 minutes before retesting. We’ll need to repeat this process until our alkalinity and pH levels are within the recommended ranges. And keep in mind that extremely high or low test results can take a while to get properly adjusted, keep working at it until your hot tub has reached the proper levels.
And next, we’ll need to sanitize the water and the components of your hot tub. There are two primary types of sanitizers chlorine, which we have here, and bromine. Sodium-dichlor, chlorine granules are what we, at Master Spas specifically recommend for sanitation. They offer the best results with the features of your hot tub; such as the EcoPur and the ozone systems. And do not confuse this version of chlorine with tricor type chlorine tri chloric and damage the components of your hot tub.
However, if you are unable to use chlorine for personal reasons you may opt to use bromine. Bromine doesn’t dissolve as quickly and therefore you must wait a little longer for proper testing of the waters levels. Also, bromine can build up over time if you have to use bromine just be careful not to over treat. Adding tablets to a floater or a dispensing device may sound easy, but you must continue to test the water and remove the tablets once a hot tub has reached the proper sanitation levels.
Now for our initial startup of our hot tub, we want our free chlorine levels to be higher than what is best for daily use to ensure for proper startup sanitation of the water and components. You should aim for a level around 5 to 8 parts per million. Wait an additional 30 to 60 minutes before re-checking the free- chlorine level, and do not allow anyone to get in the hot tub until the chlorine levels have dropped between 2 and 4 parts per million, which is a recommended range by the way. One last test and that’s it. Once enough time is passed to allow the chlorine to fall to the recommended levels then your water is balanced and ready to enjoy.
For European countries, please refer to this Water Chemistry Guide for appropriate chemical levels per BS EN 17125:2018.
A bromine based sanitizer. Less irritating to eyes, skin, and hair than chlorine. Great for pools, spas, and hot tubs.
Swimming Pool Directions
In newly filled pools, shock the pool if necessary. Follow directions for use on this label to establish an effective active bromine residual of between 2 and 3 ppm. Test water frequently using a reliable bromine test kit. Adjust the flow rate through the brominator if necessary, to maintain the active bromine residual. The following dosages are provided as a general rule of thumb. Automatic brominators have use instructions specific to their design. Frequently a brominator must be filled to capacity every week – while the adjustments allow the user to erode only the total amount of this product necessary for proper sanitation. As suggested below, the slow dissolving nature of the chemical combined with the design features of the brominator require that a greater amount of chemical be exposed to the water. RESIDENTIAL: Add 17 tablets per 10,000 gallons every 5 – 7 days or as needed to maintain a bromine residual of 2 – 3 ppm at all times. Apply weekly dose through an automatic brominator which will allow you to adjust the amount of bromine entering the water. COMMERCIAL: Add 31 tablets per 10,000 gallons every 5 – 7 days or as needed to maintain an active bromine residual of between 3 and 5 ppm at all times.
POOL GALLON CALCULATOR (all dimensions in feet)
Square or Rectangular: Length x Width x Average Depth x 7.5 = Gallons
Round or Oval: Length x Width x Average Depth x 5.9 =Gallons
Each tablet weighs 0.70 oz. (19.8 grams)
Spa & Hot Tub Directions
Introduce 3 tablets per 300 gallons of spa water with the use of a floating tablet feeder or automatic brominator installed on the spa equipment. Adjust tablet feeder or brominator to obtain an active bromine residual of at least 2 ppm. Maintain spa by adding 3 tablets per 300 gallons every 5 – 7 days or as needed to maintain an active bromine residual of 2 ppm at all times. Spa water has a tendency to foam and cloud that is directly proportional to the amount of use it receives. This is due to the accumulation of body fats and oils and contaminants too small for the filtration equipment to remove, and to the rapid escalation of total dissolved solids in the water. To a great extent, defoamer, clarifier, shock treatments and demineralizers or sequestering agents can be used to clear the water. When this become impossible, draining, cleaning, and refilling the spa will be the most satisfactory way of solving this problem. Generally, residential spa and hot tub water should be changed every three months.
SPA GALLON CALCULATOR (all dimensions in feet)
Square or Rectangular: Length x Width x Average Depth x 7.5 =Gallons
Round or Oval: Length x Width x Average Depth x 5.9 = Gallons
Each tablet weighs 0.70 oz. (19.8 grams)
When bromine is added to a hot tub or spa, it’s in the form of bromide ions. It’s then activated with an oxidizer to form hypobromous acid. Hypobromous acid is the killing form of bromine.
When hypobromous acid reacts with an organic contaminant it’s reduced back to bromide ions. The bromide ions can then be reactivated back into hypobromous acid by the addition of an oxidizer.
This is somewhat of a continuous cycle with bromine sanitized spas. If 100 percent of the bromide ions became hypobromous acid and 100 percent of the hypobromous acid returned to bromide ions, you would never again have to add more bromide salt.
But hypobromous acid can react with certain chemicals in the water that tie up the bromide ions and prevents them from becoming free bromide ions in the water.
This happens when hypobromous acid produces bromate or bromoform for instance.
There are many other combinations that tie up the bromine so it can’t become a free bromide ions. For this reason more bromine salt or bromide ions need to periodically be added. The level of bromide ions should not go below 15 ppm.
The basis behind 2-part liquid bromine sanitizing systems is to add a salt of bromine (sodium bromide) to the water to get bromide ions and then oxidize the bromide ions with an oxidizer.
Common oxidizers include monopersulfate (MPS), hydrogen peroxide, percarbonate, ozone or any compound of chlorine to produce hypobromous acid.
You need a minimum of 15 ppm of bromide ions for an oxidizer to work and to provide a “bank” of bromide ions for an oxidizer to react with. Bromine tablets are typically 1-bromo-3-chloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin.
When added to water they hydrolyze to become hypobromous acid. With bromine tablets a separate oxidizer is not necessary to make hypobromous acid, it is already an ingredient in the tablets.
When the hypobromous acid reacts with a contaminant and is reduced, it becomes a bromide ion. You then get a build-up of bromide ions in the water. After a while, you could just start adding an oxidizer to reactivate the bromide ions to hypobromous acid, but most people don’t, they just add more bromine tabs.
Currently, there is no way to test water to find out how much bromide ions are in it. This is because the same test that measures bromide ions also measures chloride ions and all water has chloride ions in it. Other than making an educated guess, there’s no way to tell when the bromide ion level is too low.
The 2-part bromine manufacturers know this and recommend that you add some bromide ions or liquid bromide salts every few weeks or so. Realistically, a bromine sanitized spa can’t be switched over to chlorine, if there’s still bromine in the water. All the chlorine added to the water is going to convert bromide ions into hypobromous acid.
As long as there’s 15 ppm or more of bromide ions in the water, all the chlorine added is going towards converting bromide ions into hypobromous acid, none of it will provide a chlorine residual.
The spa will continue to be bromine sanitized until the bromide level gets below 15 ppm. But there is no test kit for measuring just bromide ions in the water and therefore no way to know when the bromide level is below 15 ppm. It could take a week. It could take 2 months.
Maintaining a Bromine Sanitized Spa
There are typically two types of bromine systems, a 2-step system and a 3-step system. With a 2-step system sodium bromide, either granular or liquid, is added to the water. An oxidizer, such as chlorine or non-chlorine shock (MPS) is than added on a regular basis to oxidize the bromide into bromine.
One of the more popular 2-step bromine systems is the Enhance/Activate Sanitizing System. It’s chlorine free and easy to use, but does require some daily attention to maintain proper bromine levels in the water.
A 3-step system is similar to the 2-step, but also uses bromine tablets in a floating feeder. Bromine tables consist of a combination of sodium bromide and an oxidizer, typically chlorine. The 3-step system requires less attention and maintains more constant levels of bromine in the water, but costs more than the 2-step system.
A 2-step system with an efficient ozonator might be able to achieve the constant bromine level without the use of, or by using less oxidizer (MPS or chlorine) since the ozone is constantly oxidizing the sodium bromide while it is on.
However, the ozone may also deplete the bromide reserve more quickly, leading to the use of more sodium bromide, or a shorter time between necessary drain and refills. Also, ozone can cause bromates to form in your water. Bromates are a suspected carcinogen in drinking water.
To begin a bromine sanitized system on a freshly filled spa the first thing needed to be done is establish a bromide ion reserve of 30 ppm. This can be accomplished in a number of ways.
There is no stand alone system in sanitizing water in pools and spas. Following are some suggestions to help you maintain water quality in your pool or spa.
Due to the low volume of water each user is in contact with in a spa, the chemical demand is very erratic.
Bromine levels should be approximately 4.5 ppm as a minimum and 6 ppm as a maximum. Use 2 ounces of shock for each 300 to 500 gallons at the end of the day when the spa has been used.
ProTeam Supreme or Gentle Spa will help the spa operation. Add approximately 12 ounces when starting with new water. Adding 2 ounces of Metal Magic will also help contribute to clean spa water.
CAUTION: The addition of the oxidizer to the brominated spa water must be done by broadcasting it into the spa and keeping the oxidizer away from the skimmer . This is because the oxidizer may be the most aggressive before the reaction of the bromine in the reactivating process. Should too much oxidizer get into the system and end up in the erosion feeder — a reaction will take place and could damage the feeder if it is made of PVC. There is no test available to give an indication of how much oxidizer should be used. Too little is better than too much. Be sure to measure amounts and not just guess. Follow the label on the oxidizer as each has a different amount to be added.
High bromine residual levels may make a flash test that shows low residual. This causes over use of bromine & oxidizer. The odor that may come from a brominated spa is normally an indication that the spa has not been opened for a while and the bromine is releasing a bi carbonate gas.
To solve this problem the cover needs to stay off for 12 to 24 hours so the gases can escape into the air. Using a fan to blow over the water helps speed up the process.
The disinfecting needs of a pool can be quickly changed by the swimmers discharge of waste — be it ammonia or otherwise. If a facility requires a shower with soap before the swimmers use the pool the oxidizer requirements will be reduced by at least 50% or more. These projections are based on a well disciplined pool with good filtration and good water balance.
The pool water temperature can affect this projection due to water evaporation and the source water quality.
Ultra Modern Pool & Patio projects that the bromine usage range will be approximately 1 1/2 pounds of bromine per week for each 10,000 gallons of water. This amount will vary with heavy bather loads. Using ProTeam Supreme or Gentle Spa will reduce this by approximately 50% The “Shock” would require 1 pound for every 10,000 gallons of water – every two weeks. This will also increase with heavy bather loads. Shock can be Burnout or Oxysheen (Monopotassium Persulfate) or Burnout 35 (Lithium Hypochlorite). Sodium Hypochlorite can be used – but is not recommended for continual use because sodium hypochlorite has a high pH, high total dissolved solids and a short shelf life. The short shelf life will cause the strength to vary. Recommended bromine levels for commercial pools — 3.0 ppm to 5.0 ppm; Residential pools — 1.0 ppm to 3.0 ppm
We are often asked what is the most important thing to take care of in your hot tub…. the answer is easy: sanitizer – it is the one thing that keeps you and your loved ones safe while having spa fun. Bromine/Chlorine levels are very important to maintain at ideal levels. When bromine/chlorine levels are in the recommended range they kill bacteria very effectively. When bromine/chlorine levels are high, they can cause some issues.
Side Effects of High Hot Tub Sanitizer on your body
When they are too high in a hot tub this can be uncomfortable for hot tub owners to sit in. High bromine/chlorine levels can be very irritating on a person’s skin, eyes and respiratory system. It can cause red itchy skin, red itchy eyes, and effect the lungs in a negative way. People who are more sensitive to bromine/chlorine can almost notice an insistent reaction to a higher level of bromine/chlorine. The ideal range for bromine/chlorine is between 3-5 ppm.
Side Effects of High Hot Tub Sanitizer on your hot tub
The effect that high bromine/chlorine has on hot tub water is that is can degrade surfaces a lot quicker. Exposed surfaces that can degrade quicker with a higher sanitizer level are: pillows, acrylic surfaces, filters, etc. Bromine and chlorine are strong chemical compounds which deteriorate surfaces. Keeping bromine/chlorine levels in range also helps with prolonging the life of equipment on hot tubs. Take a look at your hot tub cover – was the inside black and now it is white and brittle? Double check your sanitizer levels.
Uh oh – my test strips shows my chlorine or bromine as too high – what do I do now?
To correct the issue of high bromine/chlorine levels in a hot tub is to not add any more bromine/chlorine until the levels have come down. Chlorine/bromine are difficult and time consuming to chemically remove from the water; so it is best to allow the ‘bank account’ you have built up to come down naturally. In order to speed up this process, you should take the cover of your hot tub. By taking the hot tub cover off this allows the bromine/chlorine to evaporate/escape the hot tub and lower levels. If this is not fast enough you can add water to dilute the high bromine/chlorine level. By diluting the water, this will help lower the bromine/chlorine level to the recommended range. We sometimes also recommend to not add any more oxidizer (shock) to your spa water because oxidizers help maximize chlorine/bromine consumption. Oxidizers also tend to have added sanitizer to help maintain bromine/chlorine in hot tub water.
Whenever you encounter a high bromine or chlorine level, it is also recommended to not add anymore sanitizer – wait for the levels to come down. If the level is not too high, have a hot tub party – let that smelly uncle or the sweaty hockey team come over. Just make sure they bring their own towels!
The SPA FROG ® In-Line System enhances a standard hot tub up to 600 gallons with its patented delivery of minerals and a low dose of bromine. This hot tub Fresh Mineral Water ® system eliminates the need for daily maintenance & chlorination, improves spa water quality and removes the unmistakable smell of chlorine, all the while reducing bromine use and enhancing your hot tub water quality. Simply snap the pre-filled mineral & bromine cartridges into the holder, sit back, relax and enjoy your hot tub.
- Fresh Mineral Water System for Hot Tubs up to 600 gallons
- Pre-filled cartridges for no mess, no guess and no stress water care
- Kills bacteria two ways with up to 50% less bromine*
- The Mineral Cartridge lasts 4 months or whenever you drain your hot tub
- The Bromine Cartridges lasts 2-4 weeks depending on hot tub usage
- Use with FROG Jump Start® for an effective start-up shock when refilling the tub
- Easy to use with weeks of consistent and effective hot tub water sanitization
- The Bromine Cartridges are recyclable when empty
HOW IT WORKS
The SPA FROG Fresh Mineral Water In-Line System is part of the hot tub’s plumbing, with an easily distinguishable and convenient cap for top loading of the mineral and bromine cartridges. A simple twist and the cartridge basket is removed from the hot tub for quick and easy cartridge replacement. The entire process takes less than a minute. The minerals last a full four months set wide open, while the bromine usually lasts around three weeks with adjustable settings to meet each hot tub’s needs.
*Compared to the minimum ANSI recommended chlorine or bromine level of 2.0 ppm for a hot tub.
Use the boost key to turn in.clear on or off. Activation LED will lit up when in.clear is on.
Enter maintenance mode
Maintenance Mode keeps the bromine bank levels at a stable and acceptable range when the spa is not being used. Maintenance mode is the “everyday” mode and is automatically ON when the system is activated.
Maintenance level adjustment changes the rate at which bromine will be released into the spa water.
After maintenance level is set and confirmed, in.clear performs a salt test to read the sodium bromide level of the spa water or to check sodium bromide keypad warnings and errors.
Level indicator for older systems
I n older versions, a number will be displayed instead of an animation to indicate the bromine level in the spa water.
Enter boost mode
The Boost Mode should be activated every time you use your spa. Boost levels depend on the number of bathers using the spa. Boost mode increases the bromine generation rate to keep the water clear, clean and soft.
Activating the boost mode when you enter the spa will restore your bromine to the proper level and keep the water clear, clean and soft.
Modify level or cancel boost mode
You can modify the boost level or cancel the boost mode at any time.
When performing a test, the BromiCharge™ gauge (LEDs) indicates the approximate sodium bromide level of the spa water. There is no need to add sodium bromide if the indicator is in the green zone.
When adding sodium bromide, the gauge indicator will gradually shift to the right. When adding clean water to the spa, the indicator will shift to the left.
In order to achieve the proper level, start pumps and add 227g (.5 lb) of BromiCharge™ at a time and always allow 5 minutes for the gauge to react before adding more sodium bromide.
The green zone in the center area of the gauge should be targeted for optimal performance.
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Spa Pool Start Up – Bromine
- After filling spa allow water to circulate for approximately 1 hour then add 250 – 400g of Calcium Hardener. With filter running, wait for 20 minutes.
- Add 250-400g of PH Buffer. With filter running, wait for 20 minutes.
- Test pH and adjust as necessary using either pH Increase to raise or pH Decrease to lower the level (using dessertspoon amounts). 7.2 to 7.4 is ideal.
- After 30 minutes, add 1 or 2 Bromine Tablets to the adjustable spa floating dispenser in the pool.
- Add a small amount of Spa Chlor (dessertspoon). This will sanitise the water and help activate the Bromine.
Use AquaChek Spa Test Strips to check that a 4-6 ppm Free Bromine
residual is maintained.
- Test and adjust pH accordingly – 7.2-7.4 is ideal
- Remove the floating dispenser. Run your spa for 30 minutes
- Super chlorinate (shock dose) the pool with 50g per 1,000L Spa Chlor
- Check and clean cartridge filter with hose
- Use No Foam to control foaming
- Velvet Touch Water Enhancer gives the water a soft, velvety feel to the water. It clarifies and gives protection against corrosion
- Crystal Clear eliminates suspended dirt and organic matter that encourages bacteria and algae growth
EVERY 8-12 WEEKS
- Change the water (depending on use)
- Clean cartridge with Pool & Spa Filter Cleaner
Important Tip: Always add chemicals to water, not water to chemicals.
Please note this is a guide only.
Always consult your pool and spa professionals before adding anything to your spa.
Natural Chemistry’s Spa Bromine Tabs provide an active bromine residual to sanitize spa water.
Have a question or comment about this product?
- Provides an active bromine residual
- Controls bacteria and algae in spa water
- No chlorine odor
Directions for use:
It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. Read entire label and use strictly in accordance with precautionary statements and directions.
Keep pH between 7.2 and 7.6 and never allow it to fall below 7.0. The treatment necessary for your pool or spa will change considerably depending upon those factors that burden the disinfection system. Some of the factors that will vary the required treatment are water temperature, bather load, exposure to windblown debris, thunder or rain storms and length of filtration cycle. Must wear chemical-resistant gloves while putting tablet in the swimming pool/spas.
Spas: Before initially using this product in your spa or hot tub, you will need to add 1/2 oz. of sodium bromide for each 100 gallons of water. The same treatment must be followed each time you drain and refill your spa or hot tub with fresh water. Introduce 3 tablets per 300 gallons of spa water with the use of a floating tablet feeder or automatic brominator installed on the spa equipment. Adjust tablet feeder or brominator to obtain an active bromine residual of at least 2 ppm. Maintain spa by adding 3 tablets per 300 gallons every 5-7 days or as needed to maintain an active bromine residual of 2 ppm at all times. Spa water has a tendency to foam and cloud. This is directly proportional to the amount of spa use. Cloudiness is due to the accumulation of body fats, oils, and contaminants to small for the filtration equipment to remove, and is linked to rapid escalation of total dissolved solids in the water. To a great extent, defoamers, clarifiers, as well as shock treatments, demineralizers or sequestering agents can be used to clear the water. When water clarification cannot be achieved, drain, clean, and refill the spa.
BLU FUSION is cutting edge technology in spa/hot tub and swim spa water treatment. The latest in the long-standing Genesis product line, it provides a continually clean, inviting, and always-safe recreational water environment for you and your family.
Why Genesis BLU FUSION?
- No other hot tub system creates such an AMAZING feel to your water. The special Dead Sea Salt not only works with your BLU FUSION system to maintain pristinely clean water, but it makes your water feel soothing and silky! Learn more about the special Dead Sea Salt HERE.
- BLU FUSION eradicates the need for many harmful chemicals, floaters, and other unsightly and inconvenient burdens of the traditional chemical regimens of the old hot tub world. This creates a safer and cleaner spa experience.
- With BLU FUSION, there are no unpleasant chemical odors, dry skin or itching! And your spa or swim spa will be 100% chlorine free!
- BLU FUSION is easy to use, simple to set-up, and ensures that you will have a clean spa. It installs in-line on most any new or existing hot tub or swim spa.
- BLU FUSION reduces your chemical impact on the environment while saving you thousands of gallons of water, time and money.
- BLU FUSION is making the world a greener place one spa at a time.
Automating Your Tub
How does my Genesis BLU FUSION System Work? The BLU FUSION Automatic Bromine Generator device is the easiest and most cost-effective way to keep your hot tub/spa sparkling clean and always inviting. BLU FUSION uses naturally occurring bromide salt in your spa’s water and through a low voltage current, converts it into pure Bromine. This process is called Electrolysis. As an effective bactericide and algaecide, Bromine remains present in your water as long as you are managing your water effectively. By eliminating any chemical by-products, the wasteful spa draining and refilling cycles are dramatically reduced – ultimately saving thousands of gallons of water annually and virtually eliminating all those nasty chemical additives. Pure Bromine is not the same chemical that comes from brominating tablets, powders or liquids. Instead, Pure Bromine is free of chlorine, binders or compounding agents – and is virtually odorless. This Pure Bromine destroys water-borne bacteria and algae in your spa’s water. Additionally, Pure Bromine swiftly eliminates the presence of organic materials left behind by spa bather’s such as oils, sweat, and skin cells. As an added bonus, Pure Bromine does NOT contain calcium thus it can be used without concern for increasing your calcium hardness.
The results of using Genesis BLU FUSION technology in your spa are immediate and stunning. When free of contaminants, your spa’s water will be clear, soft, and amazingly brilliant. BluWater Technology devotes all of its efforts to eliminating dry skin, pungent chemical smells, and the unsightliness of tablet feeders and poorly managed water. What will happen when you use Genesis BLU FUSION Technology in your spa? . no more hassle, just sparkling clean water!
Be certain you start with a clean spa. It must be free of solids and other residues that can accumulate on the sides and/or around the jets. It is also important to only use spa cleaning products that have no phosphates since phosphates will hinder Bromine production. Always start your spa with a clean spa filter before filling your spa with water.
If the water source is well water or a non-municipal water source, you should have your water tested for “TDS” Total Dissolved Solids. Water with high TDS is likely to have higher metal content and will need a metal remover to decrease the metals and help ensure a successful start. This test can be done by your local spa dealer. The ideal range for your start-up TDS is between 50 and 300 PPM – mg/L. If TDS from your source water is above 500 PPM, a metal remover is strongly recommended.
- pH (7.2-7.8)
- Alkalinity (80-120)
- Calcium Hardness (150-250)
- Phosphates (less than 30 PPB)
- Water chemistry must be balanced before starting up Genesis II.
- If the water is not properly balanced — Genesis II will not create Bromine.
- pH Ideal range 7.2 – 7.6, test weekly
- Alkalinity Ideal range 80 – 120 PPM, test monthly
- Calcium Hardness Ideal range 150 – 250 PPM, test yearly
- Ideal range after adding Tru-Blu: 1300 – 1500 PPM
- Ideal range for Swim Spas after adding Tru-Blu: 1900 – 2100 PPM
- Phosphates – level should be less than 30 PPB
- Follow the label instructions based on your tub size.
- We recommend SeaKlear, Biolab, Leisure Time, and Blue Wave products.
- See your local pool and spa dealer.
- If pH is low (below 7.2), raise by using a base baking soda or soda ash product.
- If pH is high (above 7.8), lower by using a muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate product.
- If Alkalinity is low (below 80), add baking soda product.
- If Alkalinity is high (above 120), add sodium bisulfate product.
- If Calcium is low (below 150), add a calcium chloride product.
- If Calcium is high (above 250), partially drain the tub and refill with fresh water.
Spa owners should purchase Bromine/ pH/ Total Alkalinity (3 in 1) test strips from your spa dealer and test your spa’s water regularly to ensure that your pH, Alkalinity and Bromine levels are in the proper range. Never enter a spa that has cloudy water or insufficient bromine levels. Your spa dealer has a variety of products to increase or decrease your pH value and Total Alkalinity. If you are unsure how to use these products after reading their directions, consult your dealer for assistance.
FINDING THE RIGHT POWER SETTING FOR Genesis BluFusion may seem daunting at first, but it’s really quite simple.
For the first few days of operation monitor your Bromine Level. The ideal level for bromine is between 3-5 PPM. Should your bromine elevate above 5 PPM reduce power setting daily until the desired bromine level is achieved. Adjusting more than 1 setting at a time will have a significant impact on the daily bromine output.
HOW MANY HOURS A DAY SHOULD MY LOW SPEED PUMP BE CIRCULATING?
Circulation time is a very important element for clean and inviting water. Eight (8) hours is the minimum circulation time needed for Genesis BluFusion to create the proper amount of bromine for your spa. Your system should only be powered up and producing Bromine when your spa is circulating.
CLEANING THE SPA’S FILTER
FILTER MAINTENANCE: Filters should be cleaned monthly for the Genesis II to perform at maximum efficiency. Remove the spa filter(s) from your spa and immerse in a 5 gallon bucket of clean water. Then add a filter cleaner with NO PHOSPHATES to the water. Follow the instructions on your filter cleaner product. Some spa owners actually have a second filter or set of filters that they swap out during the cleaning process.
When you buy any hot tub, sanitation is an essential addition to keep the hot tub clean and clear of bacteria.
The 2 most common sanitizers are chlorine and bromine, each has their own advantages & disadvantages which we have listed below.
One detail they share is that they both excellent sanitizers for the hot tub to see the pros and cons for each below & make the choice on which is
Chlorine is the most popular choice amongst hot tub and swimming pool users for sanitation.
It’s very easy and fast to dissolve and so works quicker than bromine in all water types.
Chlorine is also cheaper to buy and gives the water a clearer and crisper look, water with Bromine can look a little dull by comparison.
The downside of chlorine is the strong scent it gives but this is usually as the water is not clean (e.g. public swimming pools) and it is harsh on
sensitive skin types.
Unlike the dispenser which lets you monitor who much Bromine is required, chlorine needs the use of testing strips and is more chemical based
Bromine comes in a tablet & granule form & is used with a floating dispenser which floats on the surface of the hot tub & slowly disperses bromine into the hot tub, this enables the status of the Bromine in the hot tub to be easily maintained by keeping the tablets topped up in the dispenser at all times.
Bromine is a softer option than chlorine and would be recommended if you or a family member/friend have sensitive skin as chlorine can be harsher on the skin and eyes.
Bromine tablets also have less of an odour as the strong scent of Chlorine although chlorine scents only become strong in the dirty water.
The main disadvantages of bromine is that is very slow to dissolve in comparison to Chlorine and especially in hard water areas, Also Bromine is also more expensive to buy in comparison to chlorine with a difference of cost from around 30% or more.
We do not recommend chlorine tablets for a spa or hot tub, the reasons are that chlorine tablets are known as a Trichor product.
TriChlor tablets dissolve very fast in comparison to bromine tablets & decrease the ph.
Hot tub water that is low in pH can be corrosive to pumps, jets, heaters & damage the hot tub shell both above & below the surface.
Please note: Use of TriChlor in spas/hot tubs is not recommended by many in the industry.
At Hot Tub Suppliers use of TriChlor by customers will void the warranty.
Are your chlorine or bromine levels out of control in your hot tub?
Did you add too much sanitizer to your water?
Don’t worry. It’s a common problem that affects all owners – whether you’ve spent a lot or those that have gone for cheap hot tubs – they’re all affected at one time or another, whether you have a 13A Plug & Play hot tub or a 32A hard wired spa. You can lower the chlorine and bromine levels in your hot tub so the water is safe and clean when you’re ready for a soak.
What Are Chlorine and Bromine?
Getting the chemical balance right in your hot tub is absolutely vital to good spa health, and means you can enjoy lovely, crystal clear and clean water when you’re soaking. Chlorine and bromine are halogen sanitizers that clean the water of any contaminants. Because there’s a small volume of hot water in your tub, it’s a great breeding ground for legionella, which causes Legionnaire’s Disease.
But don’t panic, it’s easy to manage once you get the hang of it. good chemical treatment routine is essential for hot tub ownership. Read our guide to hot tub water care, for extra tips.
Determine if Your Chlorine or Bromine Levels Are Too High
Most owners assume their levels are too high because the water irritates their eyes. Or there is a strong chemical smell around the spa. But, these aren’t caused by your sanitizer at all.
More often they’re symptoms of pH imbalances, excess chloramines, and copper in the water.
If you want to know if your chlorine or bromine levels are too high, you must test your water.
The recommended level of chlorine or bromine in your hot tub is between 1 and 3 parts per million (ppm). When you test your water, any reading above 3 is on the high side.
Three Methods to Lower Chlorine or Bromine Levels
You’ve tested your water and your sanitizer levels are too high. What do you do?
Don’t worry, this isn’t that serious of a problem unless you want to use your hot tub immediately.
If your chlorine and bromine levels are too high, you can try these three methods to lower your levels.
Method 1: Wait it Out
This is the easiest method, but it requires patience.
Remove your hot tub cover and let your hot tub breath. If you can give it a little sunlight, even better. The sanitizer won’t remain in your hot tub forever. Over time, it will break down.
Give your hot tub a day or two to use up some of the extra chlorine or bromine in the water before you use it. In a day or so those excess levels will vanish into thin air.
Method 2: Dilute the Water
If waiting isn’t an option, then it is time to get to work. The quickest way to lower your sanitizer levels is by diluting the water in your spa.
Grab a bucket and remove some of the water in your tub. Start with one or two buckets full of water if you are only lowering it. You may need to remove as much as half the water to make a difference.
Once you have removed the water, refill it with fresh water. Give your jets a chance to circulate the water and then test it.
In extreme circumstances, you may need a complete water change so you can reset your levels back to 0 ppm.
This will give you a fresh start and allow you to get control of your sanitizer levels from the get go.
Method 3: Use a Neutralizer
If your sanitizer levels are too high and you want to use your hot tub soon, then you could try a neutralizer.
We recommend that you allow the sanitizer levels to break down naturally. But if you have to use your hot tub, then you can add sodium thiosulfate to the water.
Sodium thiosulfate will break down both chlorine and bromine in your water. This will lower the bromine or chlorine levels fast so you can soak sooner.
Don’t Forget to Check Your Chemicals
No matter what method you choose to use, before you hop in for a soak in your hot tub make sure you test the water. Changing the sanitizer levels in your hot tub can other chemicals in your water as well.
Recheck your pH, Alkalinity (TA), and your calcium hardness levels before getting in.
Here’s a great video from SwimUniversity teaching you about testing your spa water.
Sometimes we can let the chlorine or bromine levels get out of control. It could be after a shock or just because you added too much to the water.
No matter what, using these methods will help you lower the levels of chlorine and bromine in your water. By doing so, you can rest easy knowing your water is both clean and safe.
For more tips, or if you’re new to hot tubs, then read our guide to hot tub ownership.
If you’re new to the world of hot tubs, you may be confused by all the different types of sanitizer. If you’re a swimming pool owner, odds are you’re most familiar with chlorine. While chlorine can work in hot tubs, it’s less stable in the high temperatures and can be trickier to keep balanced than some other options. For spa sanitation, bromine is an excellent choice. In this post, we’ll try to help take the guess work out of hot tub bromine.
Bromine and chlorine are both in the same chemical family known as halogens. They are excellent at attacking microorganisms like bacteria, using the process of oxidation which attacks bacteria’s cell walls and destroys the structures inside these cells, rendering them harmless. That oxidation process is what makes chlorine and bromine ideal for pool and spa sanitation, although (as previously stated), bromine is much more stable at high temperatures.
- Many find its odor less potent than chlorine.
- It is mild on people’s skin and eyes, particularly if the bathers are already sensitive to chlorine.
- Unlike chlorine which loses its ability to sanitize after being combined with waste, bromine can be reactivated with a non-chlorine shock treatment.
- Although it’s mild in odor in comparison to chlorine, it’s in no way odor-free.
- Some people may have a sensitivity to bromine the same way some people are sensitive to chlorine.
- It can dry out your skin, particularly if you have a proclivity towards eczema.
- Bromine degrades when exposed to sunlight.
- Direct contact may discolor jewelry.
Tablets—used in a residential spa, should be maintained between 2-4 ppm total bromine residual. In commercial tubs, that number should be between 4-6 ppm.
Tablets should be added to a freshly filled hot tub after adjusting your alkalinity, pH, and calcium hardness. ALWAYS adjust those elements first before adding a sanitizer to your hot tub water. Fill your feeder with them as instructed by the manufacturer. Shock your water with either a brominating or chlorinating concentrate in order to clear the water of unwanted compounds and create a sanitizer residual. Then adjust the rate of flow from the feeder. Test the water frequently during that first week and shock as needed until you get the bromine to read in the target area.
Concentrate—bromine concentrate should be maintained between 3-6 ppm total bromine residual.
If you’ve just refilled your hot tub and are using a bromine concentrate, add 2 teaspoons per 400 gallons of fill water with the pump running (or according to the manufacturer’s instructions). For the first week, test the water frequently and add concentrate as need to maintain proper chemistry.
Mineral System Cartridges—spas using bromine alongside a mineral system should maintain a bromine residual of 1-2 ppm. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions for this choice in sanitizer.
We hope you get your hot tub up and running with bromine as soon as you receive your pool chemicals. It really is a great way to keep your water clean and sanitized.
Whether your time in the hot tub is therapeutic or recreational, having your own spa is a luxury you can get used to. Homeowners sometimes shy away from purchasing a hot tub, however, fearing that its upkeep will be difficult. Fortunately, setting up a new hot tub and keeping the proper balance of chemicals in the water doesn’t require a science degree. Most tubs require only weekly maintenance once established, and can add both value and enjoyment to your home. Spa test kits make this maintenance simpler by providing everything you need to measure and understand the chemical and alkalinity levels of your hot tub’s water, making it easy to determine any adjustments you need to make.
Fill the spa with water and increase the water temperature until it reaches 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Add an enzyme-based water clarifier to the water along with 2 ounces of stain and scale control chemicals per 500 gallons of water.
Measure the water’s total alkalinity before measuring or adjusting your pH levels; add alkalinity increasing or decreasing chemicals, as needed, to reach an alkalinity between 100 and 150 ppm. Add 1 ounce of alkaline adjusting chemicals at a time and allow the water to cycle for 30 minutes before retesting. Note that total alkalinity and pH are not the same thing, although they are related. If your spa’s total alkalinity readings are out of the acceptable range it will be very difficult to control the tub’s pH levels.
Test the pH level of the water with the pH test strips included with your spa water test kit, instructs Master Spa Parts. The desired pH is between 7.2 and 8.2. If your pH falls outside this range, add a pH increasing or decreasing chemical half an ounce at a time, again waiting 30 minutes before testing the pH level again.
Choose a chlorine or bromine water sanitizer and add it to the spa, instructs SpaCare. Add chlorine or liquid bromine directly to the water, or place bromine tablets into the floating dispenser system. Wait 30 minutes and test the water, adding more bromine or chlorine one-half ounce at a time until the amount of free bromine and chlorine in the water is between 3 and 5 ppm. Whatever sanitizer you choose, follow its addition to the hot tub with a potassium monopersulfate spa shock treatment.
Test the spa water once a week to determine pH and alkalinity, and adjust them as needed. Check the amount of sanitizer in the water as well, and adjust as needed to maintain 3 to 5 ppm of free bromine or chlorine. If you do not have an ozonator in your hot tub, you may need to add a bit of stain and scale control to the water every week as well. Add 2 ounces of water clarifier if your spa water is cloudy.
Spa Bromine Tablets for hot tubs 1kg are a broad-based biocide specifically formulated for the disinfection of Spa and Hot Tub water. These tablets are designed to be dosed via a specific floating dispenser or an erosion feeder device.
The joys of having a bromine tablet dispenser, feeder or floating dispenser gives you the peace of mind knowing that you’ll have a continual dose of bromine being dispensed into your tub 24/7.
Slow dissolving bromine tablets spa or bromine tablets swimming pool are ideal for daily dosing and help produce free active bromine which kills bacteria and other potentially harmful organisms.
Bromine feeders and floating dispensers simply float on the surface of your water and you can easily control the amount of bromine you wish to dispense in your pool or spa. By twisting the bottom of the dispenser this will open the vent holes that allow the slow dissolving bromine into your water.
Maintaining bromine levels in your spa and swimming pool is hugely important, but over loading on bromine can cause your active bromine to become dormant, using a non chlorine shock can activate your dormant or suspended bromine. This may in the interim elevate your bromine levels in your spa water, please ensure you regularly test your water to ensure you are managing your levels correctly.
1. Maintain the pH balance between 7.4 – 7.6.
2. Test the water with a BROMINE test kit, the ideal reading is 4 – 6ppm.
3. When using a floating dispenser or erosion feeder always refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines.
4. Only use Spa Bromine Tablets in the floating dispenser or erosion feeder and NEVER MIX CHEMICALS.
5. One Spa Bromine Tablet will typically treat 1000lts of water, for water volume above 1000lts add a minimum of 2 Spa Bromine Tablets to the floating dispenser or erosion feeder.
6. Monitor the Total Bromine readings, you may need to adjust the dispenser or feeder for flow.
7. Should you experience difficulties maintaining your bromine levels you should contact your dealer for further advice.
• Always ensure bathers are out of the water when adding chemicals.
• Never mix with any other chemicals including cleaning products, weed killers and chlorine products, as a dangerous reaction may occur.
• Always handle products in a well-ventilated area.
• Always wash hands thoroughly after handling chemicals.
• Store in a cool, dry, well ventilated, secure place. Ensure chemicals do not become damp in storage.
• Instructions and dosages given are a guide to the most effective use.
• This container must not be used or contaminated with any other materials.
Would like to know more about Bromine BPR and Sanitizers Chlorine-v’s-Bromine , click on the links to find out more.
Bromine is a very effective sanitiser to use in your hot tub
or spa, but like all chemicals in your water treatment kit, bromine is only
effective when used correctly and in the right quantity.
Effective bromine readings should be between 4-6ppm. If your
readings are outside of this range, there could be a few reasons why. In the
last week we have supported several hot tub owners with dormant bromine in
their spas, take a read of our latest blog to find out how to achieve the
perfect water balance and steps to take to identify dormant bromine readings.
Bromine as an effective sanitiser.
If you have chosen bromine for hot tubs as a primary sanitiser due to
its effectiveness at high water temperatures, its lessened irritation to sensitive
skin or simply because its flexibility to work across a wider range of pH and
Alkalinity levels, then you need to be aware that bromine can remain dormant in
your water after it has completed its sanitising cycle.
Bromine is available in both granule and tablet form. If you
have chosen the tablet form, then this needs to be used in conjunction with an
adjustable floating dispenser. Unlike granules, due to the compressed nature of
bromine tablets they can take anywhere up to 10 days to fully dissolve (this is
dependent on the flow rate which you have the dispenser set at). Given this
rate of dissolve, if you are using tablets in a dispenser don’t be tempted to
add a dose of bromine granules on top of the tablets, simply let the tablets do
Is it true that bromine can be dormant in my hot tub
In a nutshell, the answer here is yes. If you have chosen
bromine as your hot tub sanitiser, then once the bromine has effectively
removed unwanted bacteria and contaminants within your water dormant bromine
salts remain within your perfectly clear water.
Dormant bromine can, if tested, produce a negative bromine
level result. If this is the case, then you shouldn’t necessarily reach for
your bromine to immediately add more to your water.
In some cases, getting a zero-bromine reading can be quite
the opposite due to the possibility of test strip ‘bleaching’. When you dip
your test strip, if it turns a colour immediately and then after a couple of
seconds produces a blank or white colour reading, then there is the chance that
the levels of bromine in your hot tub water are so high that they are
‘bleaching’ your test strip.
How do non-chlorine shock and bromine work together?
When bromine has completed its effective sanitising cycle,
it remains dormant in the water of your hot tub, which can (as we have already
identified) produce a false negative bromine level reading.
This is where non-chlorine shock is the go-to product. Dormant
bromine, can be converted back into active bromine through the addition of a
non-chlorine shock treatment.
Non chlorine shock is great not only to reactivate bromine,
but is an effective oxidiser for managing water clarity.
This relationship between bromine and non-chlorine shock is
important to maintain the balance of your spa water. Using non-chlorine shock
on a weekly basis will ensure your active bromine is working as an effective
sanitiser and keep it smell free.
How to treat high levels of bromine in your hot tub
We have already discussed that high levels of bromine in
your hot tub water can produce false-negative test strip readings. One
identifier of this high level of bromine within your water is the presence of a
strong recognisable smell.
One of the biggest mistakes hot tub owners make when they
get a zero or negative reading for bromine in their spa water is to keep automatically
add more and more bromine granules or tablets. Once your floating dispenser is
out of bromine tablets, there is probably enough dormant bromine in your water to
last up to 10 days by simply using non-chlorine shock as explained above. If after using NCS you still receive a no
reading on bromine and no bleaching has occurred then you can follow your manufacturers
guidelines on how to build back up your bromine in your water.
If you are getting a bromine level of higher than 6ppm in
your water, you should look at reducing the levels. The quickest and most
effective way of doing this is by draining and diluting some of the water that
you have within your hot tub.
Using a clean bucket remove some of your hot tub water, and
replace it with the same volume of fresh untreated water. Then leave your hot
tub running for a while for the water to mix before testing your water again.
If the levels are still too high, keep repeating this process until you achieve
a bromine reading level of between 4-6ppm. The exact amount of water that you
need to remove to achieve this perfect reading will depend on the amount of
bromine in your water and the volume of water in your hot tub.